Removing ABS braking system ?

[scruff]

OK people, is it possible to remove the ABS system from an explorer and just retain regular brakes, using parts from a non ABS exp ?

I know the speedo is partly driven by the ABS syste, through the computer - is this going to be a problem ?

Thanks for any help !

 

[tktrain]

The question is: Why do you want to do this?

 

[Stic-o]

Just pull the fuse, and it will work like a normal system. You will have a nice new shiny light on your dash now though

 

[BogFather]

instead of getting rid of it all together or pulling the fuse why not just use this thread for a little mod:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=170209

that is if you were just doing the ABS for off roading

doing it this way still keeps it good for safety inspection you see cause then you can just switch the ABS back on and the guy/gal would never know hehehe

 

[floydr007]

The question is: Why do you want to do this?

ABS is great in some situations (like at high speeds when slamming on the brakes), but for offroading, and i guess you could say "experienced" drivers, it can really get in the way. Theres been a few times in the snow that I've almost hit cars when I know that if I could have locked my tires up it wouldn't have even come close to happening.

 

[scruff]

As to why, I am using this chassis for a hotrod, not as an explorer, and I don't want the extra clutter. I also don't like the way it feels, and it's really only useful like others have said, at high speed or in the rain with people who don't know how to brake properly.

 

[dogfriend]

I know the speedo is partly driven by the ABS syste, through the computer - is this going to be a problem ?

98 and newer Explorers use the ABS sensor in the Rear Diff as a Vehicle Speed Sensor (or so I have read in other posts)

97 and older have the VSS mounted on the transfer case or the tailpiece of the transmission. The ABS sensor is separate, so there should not be any problem with 97 or older.

 

[IZwack]

You could remove the ABS Controller Unit:

However, as I remember it (its been months since I pulled the thing out), you can not just plug the remaining lines together as all of them are male end inverted flare. You'll have to make a set of female-ended lines to join them, or just make your own lines to run from the brake master cyl to the original lines.

 

[ld50]

or just make your own lines to run from the brake master cyl to the original lines.

I`m thinking of doing that, it seems like it should work, normally the lines run into the abs controller, then out to the wheels, so it shouldn`t matter (?)

 

[IZwack]

I`m thinking of doing that, it seems like it should work, normally the lines run into the abs controller, then out to the wheels, so it shouldn`t matter (?)

yeah itll work -- thats what most people do. Just go straight from the brake master cyl to the calipers.

 

[mynameisaric]

ABS is great in some situations (like at high speeds when slamming on the brakes), but for offroading, and i guess you could say "experienced" drivers, it can really get in the way. Theres been a few times in the snow that I've almost hit cars when I know that if I could have locked my tires up it wouldn't have even come close to happening.

i disagree. the abs keeps your tires from locking up... which believe it or not, is a good thing.
http://nosro1.googlepages.com/absfaq#a3 <--pretty good explanation. basically, once your tires are locked, it is easier for them to keep sliding (and thus hit the car in front of you or slide out of control, whereas if they are still rolling just before the point of lockup, you stop faster.

I am a firm believer in ABS. it would not be standard on EVERY new if it was not a very valueable tool to safety and stability.

but i'll be losing abs shortly due to an axle swap, and i will be sad to let it go, and drive EXTRA cautious this winter in the snow knowing that my tires WILL lock up.

for a street truck, i see no reason to ditch the ABS.

 

[ActionYobbo]

Bringing some life back to this old thread.
I need to remove the abs and I am trying to find a fitting that will split the output from the master cylinder for the front brake lines. I dont want to make new lines but just take the lines out of the abs block and join them together. What thread are the lines to and from the abs block?
Thanks

 

[410Fortune]

It does not work like that

I have removed the ABS from these rigs several times
Yes the entire system
For different reasons.
First off we remove ABS from all of our big tire off road trucks, we can pump our own pedal here
Also I have had to remove the ABS stuff to make room, putting a 1949 Ford F1 body on a 97 Explorer chassis
I prefer the system without ABS myself on my personal rigs

It is a bulky system, it can be problematic, and I hate the way it pulses the pedal for you...no thanks


Basically you will need a brass block from Summit racing that will split the front feed into two
Then you will have to use the lines you removed, because they have the correct fittings at the master cylinder, you will cut the lines and re flare them on the brass block side, these lines are metric on one side and standard on the other, fun thanks Ford!!

Here are some pics, this is from a 97 5.0 explorer gone 1949 F1

 

[410Fortune]

I had to replace that brass block because that one had a hole in it LOL

I have done this a few times now
You have to be able to create a reverse metric bubble flare as pictured above for the fitting at the master

the c clamp was needed to ensure the line did not slip through the flare tool, the factory lines can move without additional clamping

a 95 MC with no cruise control and no proportioning valve can be used to control the front and rear disk brakes without the ABS pump and it cleans things up with no red switch for the cruise control

Later we would also used a 8" brake booster made for a Mustang II, that helped make room for the narrow 49 F1 fender/nose cone

good luck!!
Saves a TON of space under the hood and the system weighs about 20#

FYI Mustang guys do this all the time

 

[allmyEXes]

Is that M10 x 1.0 Bubble at the master cylinder?

 

[410Fortune]

I believe so! I took so many pictures because each time I do this it has been 10 years since I did it and I have to re learn each time so I finally wised up and snapped a bunch of pics of each step

here is the adapter I used

Earl's Performance 972052ERL Earl's Performance Brake System Adapters | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Earl's Performance Brake System Adapters with qualifying orders of $99. Shop Brake Fittings at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

 

[J_C]

Keep in mind that on a 98+ 2nd gen, you can pipe around the ABS module, but still need to keep the ABS controller, powered, to make the speedometer work.

 

[allmyEXes]

When I pulled the fuse on the '97, the speedometer quit too. @J_C I guess that you can unplug the ABS motor piece under the hood that the lines get dis-connected from?

 

[J_C]

I don't understand what you are asking. If it gets the VSS from the ABS module (as at least 98+ do) then the ABS module has to be live to provide that even if you plumb around it for the braking.

 

[allmyEXes]

@J_C The RABS and or GEM module is under the dash where the wires come out for the speedometer to work. So that is still attached. Under the hood, I assumed that "electrically" the actual ABS motor with the brake lines attached, could be unplugged too, without interrupting the speedometer signal coming out from the control box under the dash. But I'm not sure. It is more of a question. Before I head to work, I will unplug the under hood piece on my 1997 with 4WABS and see if the speedometer continues to work. Saturday I will unplug it on my 1999 Ranger with RABS and go drive it and see if the speedometer keeps working or not on it. I'm curious.