swaping rear axle parts, what can i get away with | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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swaping rear axle parts, what can i get away with

rusty 91

Member
Joined
June 30, 2014
Messages
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City, State
perrysburg ohio
Year, Model & Trim Level
01 sport
My explorer is a 01 2 door sport with the 8.8 3.73 gear open rear end. I acquired a 8.8 3.73 factory limited slip rear from a 95 explorer. I rebuilt the factory linited slip unit. I was going to change the whole axle out but it would be alot more work than just using the limited slip part. Even tho they are the same gear ratio i know the ring and the pinion wear together so if i use the ring from the open diff and put it on the limited slip and install it back in the 01 so the only thing thats changed is the part that holds the ring gear being the linited slip can i get away with it and not have to change shims and set it all up? I figure they were all built the same on the assembly line with the same tolerances so it cant be that far off. Am i right? Thanks for any input guys
 



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Machining tolerances might make the 2 center sections slightly different. Best advice is to renew all the bearings and crush sleeve and seals, then have it all set up again.

Better to just "Bite The Bullet" and renew the guts of rear end. That way all potential problems are solved.
 






Do yourself a favor and swap the entire assembly out. Yes it's a little more work, but if you just swap the spool you're going to end up with a noisy rear end that will not live very long. If you just swap the spool you need to check side play and adjust as necessary with shims, ring/pinion backlash, torque resistance on the pinion. This requires special tools, specs and knowledge.

Depending on what you took apart on the LSD diff you may still end up with some noise. Did you remove the pinion nut or carrier bearing caps?
 






Swapping the whole rear would be best, if the mileage isn't too bad.

If the mileage on the "new" 95 rear is enough to warrant rebuilding the diff(bearings - pinion bearing too), then don't swap rears. Under great conditions the main bearings can last 200k or more.

Any big leak of the pinion seal, or gear wear, or filthy gear oil, those suggest the need to rebuild it all. Rebuilding the whole rear would mean changing the differential is no extra labor, thus use the LS from the 95 rear.

So first evaluate the condition of each rear. Setting up the pinion gear depth is the hardest thing for a novice, and doing the ring and pinion depth is next but minor given a dial caliper and mount, plus the shim kit.
 






Do yourself a favor and swap the entire assembly out. Yes it's a little more work, but if you just swap the spool you're going to end up with a noisy rear end that will not live very long. If you just swap the spool you need to check side play and adjust as necessary with shims, ring/pinion backlash, torque resistance on the pinion. This requires special tools, specs and knowledge.



Depending on what you took apart on the LSD diff you may still end up with some noise. Did you remove the pinion nut or carrier bearing caps?
Do yourself a favor and swap the entire assembly out. Yes it's a little more work, but if you just swap the spool you're going to end up with a noisy rear end that will not live very long. If you just swap the spool you need to check side play and adjust as necessary with shims, ring/pinion backlash, torque resistance on the pinion. This requires special tools, specs and knowledge.

Depending on what you took apart on the LSD diff you may still end up with some noise. Did you remove the pinion nut or carrier bearing caps?


I dident touch the pinion nut i did have the caps off and the spool out when i replaced the clutches. I have since put the caps on and torqued them back down
 






Swapping the whole rear would be best, if the mileage isn't too bad.

If the mileage on the "new" 95 rear is enough to warrant rebuilding the diff(bearings - pinion bearing too), then don't swap rears. Under great conditions the main bearings can last 200k or more.

Any big leak of the pinion seal, or gear wear, or filthy gear oil, those suggest the need to rebuild it all. Rebuilding the whole rear would mean changing the differential is no extra labor, thus use the LS from the 95 rear.

So first evaluate the condition of each rear. Setting up the pinion gear depth is the hardest thing for a novice, and doing the ring and pinion depth is next but minor given a dial caliper and mount, plus the shim kit.

The miles on the 95 is about 200k. The gear oil that came out wasent the worst i ever seen but was far far from new
 






Do yourself a favor and swap the entire assembly out. Yes it's a little more work, but if you just swap the spool you're going to end up with a noisy rear end that will not live very long. If you just swap the spool you need to check side play and adjust as necessary with shims, ring/pinion backlash, torque resistance on the pinion. This requires special tools, specs and

Lets say do swap just the carier and check the gear tooth pattern. If its good would you be all right runnin with it or do u think it will still make noise if it isent perfect
 






With that mileage, you could get away with swapping the rears for a while. But the wear of the pinion seal and bearings will eventually need replacing. You're just banking on it being a while later still.

Really good gear oil and axle seals/bearings are critical to the lifespan of a rear. Don't skimp at all on anything there, it'll wear out faster if anything is shorted.
 






I'd just swap the whole thing, it's less of a hassle. As for the oil, check for steel shavings in it, if it's just normal wear with overused oil, I'd go with it, that's just me.
 






Don't forget to add the friction modifier required with the new clutch packs.

When I did mine I went with the FMS Carbon Set and used 1\2 the modifier required.

It took a little longer to break in but I was pleased with the results.
 






Definitely replace the axle seals if you haven't already and replacing the axle bearings would also be a good idea too. If the pinion seal isn't leaking currently, you can always change it when/if it starts to leak (no more work or cost to change it later). Just be sure to install a new crush sleeve or mark the pinion nut when you do.

Tip: When you replace the diff cover, use Ulta-Black RTV and follow the instructions on the tube and don't bother using gasket.
 






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