Sway bar disconnects ? | Ford Explorer Forums

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Sway bar disconnects ?

azleahy

Member
Joined
December 22, 2000
Messages
14
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City, State
Cave Creek, AZ
Year, Model & Trim Level
'93 XLT
I'm finishing up the installation of the 2.5" Rancho lift on my '93 4dr 4x4 Explorer and was hoping someone could offer advise on the best method/product for making my sway-bar disconnectable. Thanks !!
 



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Congrats on the lift. I used some washers, a hitch pin and a little time to make mine. There was a thread with the instructions but it may have been lost during one of the changes. Anyway:
I removed the bolt from the lower eye and replaced it with a hitch pin. I shortened the pin and drilled a new cotter pin hole so that it was just long enough to go through the bracket plus a washer( the hitch pin I used has a d ring and a washer built in at the pulling end). Quick job took an hour maybe.

When I get to the trail I pull the pins and push the sway bar up and bungee it to the frame.

On the rear I filed flat spots on each side of the headless bolt and with a wrench I take them out. Bungee the bar up to the frame.

Time to ready for the trail is around 10 min, with disconnecting, locking my hubs and adjusting my shocks(rs9000's)

Hope that gives you some ideas.
 






I made my own too. Cost me $5. There are no aftermarket disconnects that work or at least I have heard of. You can buy one for a Jeep and have it modified to fit too but I like my cheap homemade ones. Heres the link to my website to the page about making mine: http://home.att.net/~explorer4x4/page9.html
Here is what they look like:
View

More pics here: http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=968624&a=9418019
 






I didn't understand how those modified bolts worked until I saw the picture of them installed on Brian1's page. That is the optimum solution I was hoping for.

Thanks !!!
 






Thats exactly how mine look, but instead of a hex head, I have a d-ring to pull on to remove them.

Its an easy mod, very worth the time and effort needed to get it done.

Have fun
 






uhh

gettin off the thread topic a bit, but hey..need to know

Brian1..whered u get the shifter ball bushing replacement? I'm gonna start huntin tranny shops but do you have a brand.part# of what you got? Is the replacement urethane instead of cheapo rubber? Also whats the Ford part for the shifter bushing/seal? Did all this improve your shifts any?
 






I wrote an article on making your own disconnects (with pictures!) and sent it to Rick quite a while ago. Obviously, he's been busy. Maybe if enough people "remind" him to post my article, he'll find the time!!!!!!!!!!!!
 






Brian Kennedy's set-up

He took a stock set of sway bar arms front and rear....cut a section out of the middle, got a piece of pipe to slide of both ends, and drilled holes and used hitch pins. They looked great, and he was definately the quickest to hook back up after the weekend. He said the entire mod cost $8.00. I'm going to do mine this week.
 






Re: Brian Kennedy's set-up

The sleeve is a cool idea. It seems like it would be more convienient that the other method. However, I've been thinking I'd like to tighten up the anti-sway with some polyurethane bushings and I'm concerned that the sleeve method would add some torsional slop due to the clearance needed for the pins.
 






Re: uhh

Originally posted by Anime4x4
gettin off the thread topic a bit, but hey..need to know

Brian1..whered u get the shifter ball bushing replacement? I'm gonna start huntin tranny shops but do you have a brand.part# of what you got? Is the replacement urethane instead of cheapo rubber? Also whats the Ford part for the shifter bushing/seal? Did all this improve your shifts any?

While I was replacing my shift rail plugs, I noticed the bushings were shot and falling into pieces. I went to a tranny shop and they told me it was a Ford only part. You have to get it at Ford. I don't remember the part # and I believe it was urethane. All the pieces come in one bag and it was around $20. Shifting was tighter at first but now it has settled in and became a little looser and like it was. It does not really improve shifting, just keeps oil from coming out.

Now, back to the subject. I will still keep mine the way they are. I would think cutting them and sleaving them would be weaker than my grade 8 bolt holding it. Mine are real easy to come out too. Only 2 pins vs. 4. May take me a minute or two to disconnect and tie up the front. Oh well, to each his own. Also, how do you guys disconnect the back? Does that whole bar need to come off the axle or just where the connecting rods are? I would think if you leave the bar on the axle it would damage something while articulating.

[Edited by Brian1 on 01-16-2001 at 08:29 PM]
 






Anyone done any disconnects for the 95+ front end?
Not that they are too hard to just remove, but quicker is better right? =)
 






oh

Thanks Brian..I asked where you got the trans stuff cuz your webpage says you can get the bushing at transmission supply stores..might wanna change that :)

Do hitch pins fit perfect or are they a little looser than bolts? The D-Ring setup sounds hot..especially if it has a washer on that end already too.

I'm also curious about the rear disconnect setup..still trying to come up with something...
 






Ditto....

I am also looking for a way to do the rear?
Bueller?....Bueller?.........
Anyone?....anyone?......LOL
 






I think that with the sleeve idea you would want to put a small bolt through the center of the post, instead of the pin, and then put a pin in the bolt to hold it on.
There is a lot of different pressures on the sway bar links and to have a small pin holding it together might cause it to snap.
Just a thought...Good luck!
 






Well, to ask a dumb question... why do you want sway bar disconects? I guess the only reason i can think of is because of clearence... they seem to be a good idea to have on unless they are going to get caught up on some rocks. Someone please insite me....
Chris
 












Ohhh, i see now... maybe after my 4wd conversion i will do disconects too... thanks, chris
 






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