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Tapping into Sub wires

jasonz28camaro

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Year, Model & Trim Level
2014 Explorer Sport
I hooked up a high low converter in my wifes 2014 Explorer sport with the sony 12 speaker system the other day and I went off the left and right rear speakers after the factory amp to run my aftermarket amp and sub. I do not really like how it sounds and I wanted to try to go off the sub harness wires after the amp instead. My problem is its a dual voice sub and has 4 wires. I do not know what wires are what and i cannot find a diagram anywhere to save my life.

my converter has left and right speaker hookups 4 wires total. Need to know were to put the left +/- and right +/-.

The sub wires coming out of the amp are:
Yellow
Green with purple stripe
Grey
Purple

I have seen some of the F-150/F-250s hooked up this way but they seem to have different color wires then mine.
 



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Thanks man. I'm waiting on the wire diagrams to download but they have not came in yet.

So are people wiring up the LOC to the rear speakers or the sub wires? I'm new to it and I just was not super impressed with the rear speaker hookup. I did the exact same thing on my truck and its a lot louder. The rear door speakers I tapped into are more of a midrange speaker when adjusting the fade. If I set the fade to the rear of the car you hear the factory sub and the cargo area rear small speakers. This is what got me wondering if I chose the correct wires to tap into.

So if I hook up to the sub wires do I just wire up my converter using the left and right converter wires tapped into the coil 1 and coil 2 as if they are right and left speakers?
 






Might check your spam filter for the link.

Yes, I'd LOC on both of the VC wires. Should be good to go.
 






Thanks, worked out great and was a fast swap. Sounds a lot better this way.
 












Thanks man. I'm waiting on the wire diagrams to download but they have not came in yet.

So are people wiring up the LOC to the rear speakers or the sub wires? I'm new to it and I just was not super impressed with the rear speaker hookup. I did the exact same thing on my truck and its a lot louder. The rear door speakers I tapped into are more of a midrange speaker when adjusting the fade. If I set the fade to the rear of the car you hear the factory sub and the cargo area rear small speakers. This is what got me wondering if I chose the correct wires to tap into.

So if I hook up to the sub wires do I just wire up my converter using the left and right converter wires tapped into the coil 1 and coil 2 as if they are right and left speakers?

Sorry to dig up an old post but what did you end up doing here? I'll be installing a LOC here soon for my amp and don't want to screw this up.
 






Mike, FYI, the member you quoted above hasn't been seen here since April 22, 2018.

Peter
 






Mike, FYI, the member you quoted above hasn't been seen here since April 22, 2018.

Peter
Good to know. lol. I was able to find some of their other replies that identified the wiring at the sub that I can tap into. Hoping that works.
 






I hooked up a high low converter in my wifes 2014 Explorer sport with the sony 12 speaker system the other day and I went off the left and right rear speakers after the factory amp to run my aftermarket amp and sub. I do not really like how it sounds and I wanted to try to go off the sub harness wires after the amp instead. My problem is its a dual voice sub and has 4 wires. I do not know what wires are what and i cannot find a diagram anywhere to save my life.

my converter has left and right speaker hookups 4 wires total. Need to know were to put the left +/- and right +/-.

The sub wires coming out of the amp are:
Yellow
Green with purple stripe
Grey
Purple

I have seen some of the F-150/F-250s hooked up this way but they seem to have different color wires then mine.

According to my wiring diagram Amp DSP to plug on Sub

SUBW1+ = GN-VT
SUBW1- = GY
SUBW2+ = VT
SUBW2- = YE

GN=GREEN
GY=GREY
VT=VIOLET
YE=YELLOW


Fritz
 






According to my wiring diagram Amp DSP to plug on Sub

SUBW1+ = GN-VT
SUBW1- = GY
SUBW2+ = VT
SUBW2- = YE

GN=GREEN
GY=GREY
VT=VIOLET
YE=YELLOW


Fritz

Thank you! Now I just have to figure out how to get to the wires and avoid taking it all apart.
 






Thank you! Now I just have to figure out how to get to the wires and avoid taking it all apart.
FWIW, I tapped into the factory sub wires as described. Easy. I used T-Taps and connected a Kicker LOC. The hardest part of this whole thing was the dang power wire. I have seen some "creative" options on YouTube but I ended up running the power wire up through the existing hole behind the glove box. It's a literal pain to get it through there because of everything you have to take out to get there (glove box, airbag, inverter) but worth it. I ended up putting a different grommet there to protect the wiper fluid tube and power wire.
 






If the power wire is tough, just drill another hole where you have access, like the footwell on the side of the sub. If you’re not using an amplifier with high level inputs, do your self a favor and buy a quality Line Out Converter. The extra money is definitely worth it.
 






does anyone know what color the sub wires are coming into the factory Sony amp? I am trying to tap the LOC into the signal coming from the head unit versus sending an amplified signal to my aftermarket amp.
 






does anyone know what color the sub wires are coming into the factory Sony amp? I am trying to tap the LOC into the signal coming from the head unit versus sending an amplified signal to my aftermarket amp.
I have some pics in this thread:


Post 7 is where I did the sub. You might see there.
 






does anyone know what color the sub wires are coming into the factory Sony amp? I am trying to tap the LOC into the signal coming from the head unit versus sending an amplified signal to my aftermarket amp.
The signal going into the factory Sony amp is digital and you need an DSP (Digital Signal Processor) to decode it. No subwoofer signal is send from the headunit, the Sony Amp (which is a Audio Digital Signal Processing Module) decodes it internally.
 






The signal going into the factory Sony amp is digital and you need an DSP (Digital Signal Processor) to decode it. No subwoofer signal is send from the headunit, the Sony Amp (which is a Audio Digital Signal Processing Module) decodes it internally.
I highly recommend the Pac Audio AmpPro for this. It will decode the signal give you a true, flat line level output for the rest of your system. Otherwise you'l be chasing your tail trying to get anything aftermarket to sound decent.
 






The signal going into the factory Sony amp is digital and you need an DSP (Digital Signal Processor) to decode it. No subwoofer signal is send from the headunit, the Sony Amp (which is a Audio Digital Signal Processing Module) decodes it internally.
It's not digital, it's just non-variable low level by default (the volume control is done as part of the processing in the DSP) unless you have the newer A2B connected "platinum" 500w system. If you want a true line level all you need to do is ensure the EQ at the ACM is off (which it should be by default on a Sony vehicle, the EQ is applied in the DSP) and use Forscan to change to 4v variable out from the ACM. You can literally take the 4 analog pairs of audio and put RCAs on them and have a flat EQ'd 4v preout with fader etc. There's an excellent and extensive thread about it on the 2gfusions.net website.
 






It's not digital, it's just non-variable low level by default (the volume control is done as part of the processing in the DSP) unless you have the newer A2B connected "platinum" 500w system. If you want a true line level all you need to do is ensure the EQ at the ACM is off (which it should be by default on a Sony vehicle, the EQ is applied in the DSP) and use Forscan to change to 4v variable out from the ACM. You can literally take the 4 analog pairs of audio and put RCAs on them and have a flat EQ'd 4v preout with fader etc. There's an excellent and extensive thread about it on the 2gfusions.net website.
I Have a platinum. I did the AmpPro because I was not comfortable with making programming changes while my car was still under warranty. It also allowed me to cut off the center and third row speakers which would have clashed with my aftermarket setup.
 



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