The 4.0 Swap was chump change compared to this - Look inside...

[janderson4010]

check it out, I picked this housing up for 75 bills. it actually does have a carrier in it which im hoping is 3.73, then I could install the d44 a bit ahead of schedule.

 

[rookieshooter]

Cool. Going to shave a few things off I take it?
How about the spindles?
Is it in Yet?

 

[Heath]

Is it in Yet?

Thats what Jami keeps asking him...

 

[janderson4010]

Thats what Jami keeps asking him...

oooooh burn hahaha, bet she asks you the same thing... wait, damnit.

rick I pulled the cover and there is no carrier in there or bearing caps. so I guess im just going to buy a new carrier in the 3.92 and up category, but i have so many other things to do that the d44 is going to be awhile. as for the brackets and stuff actually it will bolt in right now bk those are jeep xj perches, so everything is ready except panhard mount, im going to cut off that extra upper mount on the passenger side since I don't use it and then clean up some of his welds but other than that its a bolt in deal.

 

[rookieshooter]

I never had to get new bearing caps. I know when you rebuild a diff. it always says make sure you mark the cap to make sure it goes back on the exact same side.
So my question is, can you just buy caps and place them on the other half?
Hope I make since.

 

[janderson4010]

You know I asked my buddy Eric who is a diff set up guru and he says I'm not totally f'ed. But it's not the best thing in the world, it's ideal to use he same caps bk they are line honed, it's like mixing up ur crankshaft bearing caps. Im not sure what problems are going to arise, maybe setting the backlash will be weird or possibly increased bearing weAr

 

[janderson4010]

haha seriously

 

[janderson4010]

alright so I drilled the first 3 holes in the doubler plate today, they are 3 of the six that hold the doubler case to the plate, I need to tap them and install 3 bolts, then ill be able to mark and drill the other 3, thus completing the first step of the doubler build. I am going to depart in one way from the instructions on TRS, instead of using stock bolts im going to use countersunk allen head bolts on the 3 that go through the plate into the case itself, thus negating the need to clearance my tcase to clear the heads of those bolts and making installation of the tcase easier. im also going to cut the drain plugs out of the back of the donor case that my doubler case came from and have them welded in as drain and fill plugs on the doubler unit. getting pretty excited to have this doubler up and running.

 

[rookieshooter]

On the fill plug, can you install it is such a way that when the transfer case is clocked in it's final position that the fluid level is at the bottom edge of the hole? That's if you could even come up with the right amount to fill in a doubler?

 

[janderson4010]

its 3/4 of a quart, not much, i think im just going to install the plugs on top and bottom and fill it from in the cab, not hard to make a cover that screws on. the first time I guess i could just fill the doubler case on the bench. The guy in the trs article never made fill or drain plugs, he just filled it with the 2nd case off and figured he'd pull the cases to change it I guess. I just feel like it would be a pita to fig out where the 3/4 of a quart would come up to on the side, better to just know how much goes in there and put that much in, people have used up to 1 full quart but I think they said it burped out the bleeder when they did that.

 

[janderson4010]

come to find out I can just tap straight into the case, its pretty thick aluminum, at least 1/2" thick, so Ill just drill a 1/2" hole in the top and bottom and put a plug in there, fill and drain holes solved. also got all the holes drilled for the doubler case on the plate, just need to drill them out to 7/16" and countersink them. then the front half of the doubler is done.

 

[broncobra22]

Had me puzzled for a while with all that cuttin and welding in of filler and drain, but your back on track drilling and tapping, with floor board access plate for servicing.... looks good!

 

[janderson4010]

yeah I thought the case sides were really thin, but when I looked a little more closely a much simpler solution was there staring me in the face. got the 3 holes tapped and the case bolted up to make sure my other 4 holes are aligned properly, wouldn't you know I got 3 right and one is off, thats why you drill with a smaller bit first, I can just drill a hole with a 7/16" bit right next to the hole and it will be dead on and no one will ever know the difference. here are pics of the doubler case bolted to the plate,

 

[janderson4010]

the 4 holes on the back that go through I'm going to countersink and use allen head bolts to make them flush, that way I don't have to clearance the tcase itself.

 

[broncobra22]

Had me puzzled for a while with all that cuttin and welding in of filler and drain, but your back on track drilling and tapping, with floor board access plate for servicing.... looks good!

 

[janderson4010]

got a little sidetracked on the doubler, I had to find a large countersink, my buddys wasn't sharp at all. Also I marked and drilled one of the holes waaaaay off, live and learn, next time ill be much more careful. Now I need to figure out how im going to fix it, ive even thought about making a new plate lol.

 

[rookieshooter]

Sorry to hear that. Other then welding it in which might warp the plate and re drilling which might be difficult drilling through the weld depending on close the weld is to the new hole, a new plate may be in order?

 

[janderson4010]

well I drilled the holes out to 1/2 inch, the bolts are off center but they go in, im hoping I can countersink off center and get them to work, otherwise ill cut out a new plate.

 

[Heath]

Ouch, that sucks...

 

[janderson4010]

not that big of a deal, it would prob only take about an hr to make a new plate, I just don't know when ill be able to do it. gotta put a new axle seal in a jk on saturday.