I just thought it would be a good idea to get a comprehensive thread started on Solid Axle Swaps (SAS). I would hope that EVERYONE with firsthand experiences with SASs will take the time to write out their experiences. SAS information is some of the most sought out, yet often most misunderstood, information on these forums.
Before anyone gets started on razzing me, no, I haven’t done a SAS myself with my own hands, but I will give a brief history of myself with Explorer SASs. About 2 years ago, CoryL did a fully furnished SAS on my ’95 Explorer with a Jeep (YJ) HP D30 front axle. To be honest, during 90% of the install, I had no idea what was going on with my truck, nor did I have any real knowledge about solid front axle conversions at all. I completely lacked the knowledge of the very basics. After Cory was done with my SAS, for various reasons (none including the quality of Cory’s work), I decided to dismantle the swap that had been done on my truck, and go a completely different route with the front end of it. I decided to go with a different axle, and a different suspension setup. From that moment, about 1.5 years ago, I have spent MANY MANY hours researching and studying SASs on any and every type of vehicle, mainly IFS (including TTB) Fords. I have befriended two people who have done their own SASs (Toy and Izuzu) and have bothered them for more information than they would ever like to give. I consider myself pretty knowledgeable on the subject, but YES most of my knowledge comes from second hand experience, and I am FAR from an expert on the subject, and will never claim to be such. You can consider me a “web wheeler†on the subject, and I take no offence to that.
Blah blah Robb, get over yourself! Okay, on to the subject at hand……………….
What Axle To Get?
This is a loaded question! Many Many factors involved in this decision. Terrain, budget, aftermarket support, etc all have to come into concern here. A rig that will see mainly mid-level terrain will suit a D30 just fine, whereas a rig that will see extreme rock crawling may demand a D60. The difference in cost between a front D30 and a front D60, probably about $800+. And if you would like to mainly ride “forest†trails with medium obstacles, is a D60 going to serve you any better? Nope. Be practical when choosing your axle, decide for yourself what you honestly need out of it strength wise. The number 1 thing to remember is that, unless you plan to do some very fancy t-case work, is that you need a driver’s side drop pumpkin front axle (Jeep and Ford being the most popular).
Can A SAS Be Bolt-On?
In my opinion, one day there will be enough knowledge and trial-n-error work done to effectively create a bolt-on Explorer SAS list of parts. To my knowledge, this does not exist today. 1st Gen Xs will be the first to make this happen (much less steering work involved), 2nd Gens will follow……………but will ONLY be bolt-on after existing suspension/steering components have been cut/plasma’d off. Once down to a simple frame, with a fabbed up crossmember in place, I think a group of parts from junk cars and aftermarket sources can be gathered to bolt a SAS on. Am I crazy? Just maybe. But to sum it up…………to this date, NO FORM of a bolt-on kit exists to SAS your Explorer. Welding and fabrication skills ARE required!!!
How Much Does A SAS Cost?
Again, a VERY loaded question!! You will notice whenever this question is asked, most guys that have forked out the money duck the question. This is because the answer is all over the place, and most guys don’t like to admit exactly how much they have in it. I am going to throw a cliché’ here that many people won’t like, but I think a few will understand. If you have to ask how much it is going to cost, you probably can’t afford it!! Look at it this way, if you plan to do a SAS by yourself functional, geared, locked, and complete in the near future, prepare to have $3000+ minimum available at your disposal. And I emphasize the word minimum! Many people put more than that in the axle itself, without everything else involved! Basically, be prepared to spend LOTS of dough!
Can A Shadetree Mechanic Do A SAS?
Off the bat, I would say no. But, with the right amount of research and time, a DIY’r can learn! Once again, if you want a functional SAS Explorer in a couple of weeks and you have the skills to be considered a “shadetree†mechanic, you can’t do it. But, if you have the basic skills, and you can park the rig for quite a while for time to be patient, and research, and learn from others, I believe the average mechanic can do it.
How Much Lift Can I Get From A SAS?
Varies way too much to answer. The golden rule in lifting offroad rigs is to try for the least amount of lift possible for the tires you want to run. There are SAS’d Explorers with an overall 6†of lift, to those with 10â€+ of lift. The number of coil of leaf springs available can amount to any amount of lift desired. And on a personal note, PLEASE don’t be worried about how much lift you need to clear a certain tire size without trimming when it comes to SASs. Put it this way, you have ruined the stock susp. gear of your rig, don’t be afraid to cut the hell out of the fenders/quarter-panels!!! There are those with SASs running 37â€+s with no fender trimming, IMHO, this is WAY too much lift and is a danger! Yep, those with this setup will flame me, but I believe this type of setup to be unstable and a danger to all occupants inside.
Aight, I have written enough to hopefully get this thread going in its desired direction. PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE, those with the knowledge to contribute here, take a little time to help out here. Like I said, I am just a WW, and I know many others here can help here more than I can! Let’s try to create a comprehensive thread of useful SAS information right here!
Thanks Guys!!
Before anyone gets started on razzing me, no, I haven’t done a SAS myself with my own hands, but I will give a brief history of myself with Explorer SASs. About 2 years ago, CoryL did a fully furnished SAS on my ’95 Explorer with a Jeep (YJ) HP D30 front axle. To be honest, during 90% of the install, I had no idea what was going on with my truck, nor did I have any real knowledge about solid front axle conversions at all. I completely lacked the knowledge of the very basics. After Cory was done with my SAS, for various reasons (none including the quality of Cory’s work), I decided to dismantle the swap that had been done on my truck, and go a completely different route with the front end of it. I decided to go with a different axle, and a different suspension setup. From that moment, about 1.5 years ago, I have spent MANY MANY hours researching and studying SASs on any and every type of vehicle, mainly IFS (including TTB) Fords. I have befriended two people who have done their own SASs (Toy and Izuzu) and have bothered them for more information than they would ever like to give. I consider myself pretty knowledgeable on the subject, but YES most of my knowledge comes from second hand experience, and I am FAR from an expert on the subject, and will never claim to be such. You can consider me a “web wheeler†on the subject, and I take no offence to that.
Blah blah Robb, get over yourself! Okay, on to the subject at hand……………….
What Axle To Get?
This is a loaded question! Many Many factors involved in this decision. Terrain, budget, aftermarket support, etc all have to come into concern here. A rig that will see mainly mid-level terrain will suit a D30 just fine, whereas a rig that will see extreme rock crawling may demand a D60. The difference in cost between a front D30 and a front D60, probably about $800+. And if you would like to mainly ride “forest†trails with medium obstacles, is a D60 going to serve you any better? Nope. Be practical when choosing your axle, decide for yourself what you honestly need out of it strength wise. The number 1 thing to remember is that, unless you plan to do some very fancy t-case work, is that you need a driver’s side drop pumpkin front axle (Jeep and Ford being the most popular).
Can A SAS Be Bolt-On?
In my opinion, one day there will be enough knowledge and trial-n-error work done to effectively create a bolt-on Explorer SAS list of parts. To my knowledge, this does not exist today. 1st Gen Xs will be the first to make this happen (much less steering work involved), 2nd Gens will follow……………but will ONLY be bolt-on after existing suspension/steering components have been cut/plasma’d off. Once down to a simple frame, with a fabbed up crossmember in place, I think a group of parts from junk cars and aftermarket sources can be gathered to bolt a SAS on. Am I crazy? Just maybe. But to sum it up…………to this date, NO FORM of a bolt-on kit exists to SAS your Explorer. Welding and fabrication skills ARE required!!!
How Much Does A SAS Cost?
Again, a VERY loaded question!! You will notice whenever this question is asked, most guys that have forked out the money duck the question. This is because the answer is all over the place, and most guys don’t like to admit exactly how much they have in it. I am going to throw a cliché’ here that many people won’t like, but I think a few will understand. If you have to ask how much it is going to cost, you probably can’t afford it!! Look at it this way, if you plan to do a SAS by yourself functional, geared, locked, and complete in the near future, prepare to have $3000+ minimum available at your disposal. And I emphasize the word minimum! Many people put more than that in the axle itself, without everything else involved! Basically, be prepared to spend LOTS of dough!
Can A Shadetree Mechanic Do A SAS?
Off the bat, I would say no. But, with the right amount of research and time, a DIY’r can learn! Once again, if you want a functional SAS Explorer in a couple of weeks and you have the skills to be considered a “shadetree†mechanic, you can’t do it. But, if you have the basic skills, and you can park the rig for quite a while for time to be patient, and research, and learn from others, I believe the average mechanic can do it.
How Much Lift Can I Get From A SAS?
Varies way too much to answer. The golden rule in lifting offroad rigs is to try for the least amount of lift possible for the tires you want to run. There are SAS’d Explorers with an overall 6†of lift, to those with 10â€+ of lift. The number of coil of leaf springs available can amount to any amount of lift desired. And on a personal note, PLEASE don’t be worried about how much lift you need to clear a certain tire size without trimming when it comes to SASs. Put it this way, you have ruined the stock susp. gear of your rig, don’t be afraid to cut the hell out of the fenders/quarter-panels!!! There are those with SASs running 37â€+s with no fender trimming, IMHO, this is WAY too much lift and is a danger! Yep, those with this setup will flame me, but I believe this type of setup to be unstable and a danger to all occupants inside.
Aight, I have written enough to hopefully get this thread going in its desired direction. PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE, those with the knowledge to contribute here, take a little time to help out here. Like I said, I am just a WW, and I know many others here can help here more than I can! Let’s try to create a comprehensive thread of useful SAS information right here!
Thanks Guys!!
Um, don't take short cuts, do it right the first time or you'll be doing it again. imho (i have alot of opinions tonight 
