It seems the Explorer is just more prone to wheel stud failures than any other vehicle I've owned. When installing new brakes on the '98 Sport, I encountered 3 issues:
1. A sheared stud.
2. A stripped stud.
3. A spun stud.
Note: While it seems simple enough, the parts are a PITA to aquire. I contacted 5 stores and only 2 of them had the studs I needed, each having just 1 stud. They are different than the front's and are easy to get mixed up. They are not interchangeable and you can damage your ride if you try to force them. Best to remove the broken/stripped part and bring it with you for comparison.
Here's what I did:
The first two problems were on the same axle (RR), and repaired the same way. Removal of the old stud is quite simple on the rear axle: Strip the affected wheel down to the bare axle (leaving the E-brake alone). Rotate the bad stud to the rear of the vehicle, even with the center. Use a large hammer to drive the stud back, in towards the differential (one hit, usually). Fish the old stud out through the bottom, between the two emergency brake shoes.
Look at the picture (below), at roughly the 1 o'clock position, you can see a ring around the old stud hole. This is where I used a method found on this board that involves stacked washers, grease and a 1/2"-20 nut. Well, it might work in a pinch, but all I got was an overheated lug nut, a questionable stud (stretched threads?) and the washers galled, marring the axle face.
Now for the best way:
The new stud is wiggled in from the TOP between the emergency brake shoes and slowly lowered to the rear position. You will see that the two rearmost backing plate bolts are in the way, and you will have to turn the axle slightly to get the new stud in position. You can also go in from the Front (Great for "South Paws"), since there is a lot of room there as well. You may have to rotate the axle slighty in each direction to work the stud in, especially if it is longer than stock.
Pull the new stud through the hole until it stops. Next you will need some penetrating oil (or other lube), a pneumatic impact gun, and a stud installer. Place the hardened spacer over the stud and thread the puller on to the well oiled stud threads. Once the puller is threaded down, slide the spacer over the end of the installer and thread the assembly down until it is flush with the axle. [You can see the flange of the stud behind the axle.]
I ran it for a few seconds, then backed it off for a cool down and reoil...
[stud flange is pulled in towards axle, stud shoulder and knurling visible on outside of axle flange.]
...repeat as needed...
...and reassemble using some grease on the axle face to keep that rotor from sticking.
Now for the "spun" stud. This is what happens when the lug's knurlings lose their hold in the hub/axle. Instead of the stud staying put, it turns as you try to install/remove the lug nut. If you can hold pressure to one side (tilt the wrench) you can normally get it to release the lug nut without incident. If your luck runs like mine did, the lug nut is seized to the stud...
-The arrow points to the one stud that spins, keeping me from finishing my PowerSlot rotor install
Clamp on the bad lug nut with a pair of Vice Grips to keep it from turning, and with an electric drill, a 1/2" hardened bit, some cutting fluid and a slow, steady pace, use the lug nut as a guide to drill down the center. Only go a little way in, because we want to use this 1/2" drill to center our pilot hole with the support of the lug nut. Now drill in through the centered hole with the pilot drill (hardened 3/8" bit) until you reach at least the level of the rim. Then switch back to the 1/2" bit and go just as deep. Using a large hammer, whack the lug nut from the side, snapping it flush.
Since I was installing a new hub, all I had to do was pull the old one, since the 4x2 uses a "hub/rotor", all 5 studs will be replaced at once. 4x4 use a separate hub abd rotor, so you will need to do remove the hub to do the install.
-Old and busted...
-The new hotness
If you have to reuse this hub (or, again, if you have a 4x4), you will have to remove the hub, and pull the speed ring on the rear of the hub to retrieve the remaining pieces. Then you can install a new stud, the same way we did before, and reinstall the speed ring.
This is a perfect time to use some synthetic grease to repack those front bearings (inner and outer) and seals!
Easy huh?
1. A sheared stud.
2. A stripped stud.
3. A spun stud.
Note: While it seems simple enough, the parts are a PITA to aquire. I contacted 5 stores and only 2 of them had the studs I needed, each having just 1 stud. They are different than the front's and are easy to get mixed up. They are not interchangeable and you can damage your ride if you try to force them. Best to remove the broken/stripped part and bring it with you for comparison.
Here's what I did:
The first two problems were on the same axle (RR), and repaired the same way. Removal of the old stud is quite simple on the rear axle: Strip the affected wheel down to the bare axle (leaving the E-brake alone). Rotate the bad stud to the rear of the vehicle, even with the center. Use a large hammer to drive the stud back, in towards the differential (one hit, usually). Fish the old stud out through the bottom, between the two emergency brake shoes.
Look at the picture (below), at roughly the 1 o'clock position, you can see a ring around the old stud hole. This is where I used a method found on this board that involves stacked washers, grease and a 1/2"-20 nut. Well, it might work in a pinch, but all I got was an overheated lug nut, a questionable stud (stretched threads?) and the washers galled, marring the axle face.
Now for the best way:
The new stud is wiggled in from the TOP between the emergency brake shoes and slowly lowered to the rear position. You will see that the two rearmost backing plate bolts are in the way, and you will have to turn the axle slightly to get the new stud in position. You can also go in from the Front (Great for "South Paws"), since there is a lot of room there as well. You may have to rotate the axle slighty in each direction to work the stud in, especially if it is longer than stock.
Pull the new stud through the hole until it stops. Next you will need some penetrating oil (or other lube), a pneumatic impact gun, and a stud installer. Place the hardened spacer over the stud and thread the puller on to the well oiled stud threads. Once the puller is threaded down, slide the spacer over the end of the installer and thread the assembly down until it is flush with the axle. [You can see the flange of the stud behind the axle.]
I ran it for a few seconds, then backed it off for a cool down and reoil...
[stud flange is pulled in towards axle, stud shoulder and knurling visible on outside of axle flange.]
...repeat as needed...
...and reassemble using some grease on the axle face to keep that rotor from sticking.
Now for the "spun" stud. This is what happens when the lug's knurlings lose their hold in the hub/axle. Instead of the stud staying put, it turns as you try to install/remove the lug nut. If you can hold pressure to one side (tilt the wrench) you can normally get it to release the lug nut without incident. If your luck runs like mine did, the lug nut is seized to the stud...
-The arrow points to the one stud that spins, keeping me from finishing my PowerSlot rotor install
Clamp on the bad lug nut with a pair of Vice Grips to keep it from turning, and with an electric drill, a 1/2" hardened bit, some cutting fluid and a slow, steady pace, use the lug nut as a guide to drill down the center. Only go a little way in, because we want to use this 1/2" drill to center our pilot hole with the support of the lug nut. Now drill in through the centered hole with the pilot drill (hardened 3/8" bit) until you reach at least the level of the rim. Then switch back to the 1/2" bit and go just as deep. Using a large hammer, whack the lug nut from the side, snapping it flush.
Since I was installing a new hub, all I had to do was pull the old one, since the 4x2 uses a "hub/rotor", all 5 studs will be replaced at once. 4x4 use a separate hub abd rotor, so you will need to do remove the hub to do the install.
-Old and busted...
-The new hotness
If you have to reuse this hub (or, again, if you have a 4x4), you will have to remove the hub, and pull the speed ring on the rear of the hub to retrieve the remaining pieces. Then you can install a new stud, the same way we did before, and reinstall the speed ring.
This is a perfect time to use some synthetic grease to repack those front bearings (inner and outer) and seals!
Easy huh?
