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The rare case of synthetic oil

Thinking about the mechanical side of things, I don't think there would be any measurable difference just due to friction alone.
I guess that's what I was originally alluding to, not thinking of other components.

What about the other things that utilize oil circulating through the engine?
Maybe the cam phasers are not reaching optimal position with the synthetic? That might set off a check engine light, but maybe not.

Just tossing out ideas.
Thanks, that is interesting about the cam phasers...
 



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FWIW;
The simplest change to make regarding improved powertrain efficiency is to switch to a synthetic engine oil at your next oil change service. Independent test data commissioned by Royal Purple synthetic oil shows that just this change can improve fuel economy 4.5 percent.

Peter

Agree. I have been using synthetics for decades now with zero problems. Other than the old school thought process of "once you use synthetic you can't go back" or "synthetic will makes your seals leak" I have never experienced anything negative from a synthetic.

Over the years there have been several tests similar to the one posted above showing that synthetic improves HP, and MPG, by small amounts obviously.

There's something else at play here. My guess is just unconscious slightly different driving styles to solidify what you were looking for. Not trying to knock you and say you are lying to people, just saying our brains work in mysterious ways and when we want to see something, we will see something.
 












:popcorn:
 






Agree. I have been using synthetics for decades now with zero problems. Other than the old school thought process of "once you use synthetic you can't go back" or "synthetic will makes your seals leak" I have never experienced anything negative from a synthetic.

Over the years there have been several tests similar to the one posted above showing that synthetic improves HP, and MPG, by small amounts obviously.

There's something else at play here. My guess is just unconscious slightly different driving styles to solidify what you were looking for. Not trying to knock you and say you are lying to people, just saying our brains work in mysterious ways and when we want to see something, we will see something.
Placebo effect or whatever its called.
 






Probably IS friction but I doubt anyone can tell synthetic vs not from the driver's seat.
 






Probably IS friction but I doubt anyone can tell synthetic vs not from the driver's seat.
Unless you try and start it in very cold weather. ;)
 






Unless you try and start it in very cold weather. ;)
The viscosity of synthetic isn’t any different. The difference between synthetics and conventional oil is far less than most people think.
 






The viscosity of synthetic isn’t any different. The difference between synthetics and conventional oil is far less than most people think.
Just a addictive package and some ok base oil
Right
 






Most of it is made from crude base materials that has been chemically altered. (Probably after being fractional distilled.) It can be made entirely from synthetics, but you won’t see that in an automotive oil.

Another thing about blends is that there’s no minimums. It could be 1% synthetic, and be a blend.
 






The viscosity of synthetic isn’t any different. The difference between synthetics and conventional oil is far less than most people think.
I noticed a day and night difference in engine cranking after the vehicle sat outside in very cold winter nights when I was working shift. Cranking was much quicker/easier with full synthetic.

Peter
 






The properties of synthetic allow it to adhere to the wear engine parts better than conventional oil which will give you better lubrication when first starting a vehicle.

But a 5 weight synthetic is the same weight as 5 weight dino oil, or the blend.
 






My first thought is if you took it to a shop to have the oil change done they also adjusted your tire pressures. Now they are adjusting it in a 70 degree shop to probably 30 or 32 psi. Take it outside and let it sit in the cold air it goes down below 30 psi. Probably not enough to turn the tire pressure light on which I believe comes on around 25 psi but enough to cause some drag. I don’t know where you live but if you are somewhere that gets cold this time of year it may be the case. I normally keep my tires on the higher side at 34 psi
 






I only use amsoil or whatever synthetic oil I happen to find a good deal on so I can't comment about any power losses or gains going from blended to full syn oil but where I do notice a change in power and responsiveness is when the oil is on low. I can't really explain it as you would think less oil in the crankcase would mean less drag in the crankcase and hence feel faster on the seat but there is no doubt in my mind it is indefinably slower when the oil is low on the dipstick. Maybe because there is a 1/5th less slippery stuff in the crank when it's a quart low?? idk. One a side note, I always thought synthetic blends were for cheapskates and people who can't make up their minds but after reading your findings I'm going to give them a hard half-hearted second look and see if i'm missing out on some hidden power gains.

I hope this helps and thanks!
 






Higher oil levels in the crank typically rob a very small amount of power, it’s one reason people use Windage trays.
 


















nd thanks!

I only use amsoil or whatever synthetic oil I happen to find a good deal on so I can't comment about any power losses or gains going from blended to full syn oil but where I do notice a change in power and responsiveness is when the oil is on low. I can't really explain it as you would think less oil in the crankcase would mean less drag in the crankcase and hence feel faster on the seat but there is no doubt in my mind it is indefinably slower when the oil is low on the dipstick. Maybe because there is a 1/5th less slippery stuff in the crank when it's a quart low?? idk. One a side note, I always thought synthetic blends were for cheapskates and people who can't make up their minds but after reading your findings I'm going to give them a hard half-hearted second look and see if i'm missing out on some hidden power gains.

I hope this helps and thanks!
I´m sure it depends on which engine you do this but I have a book I purchased several years ago that states that if you run any engine 1 quart less than full, that would be on the low mark for most cars, there´s some hidden power there, the logic behind it is less oil drag on the crankshaft and all engine parts, I never tried that, found a crazy and dangerous way to look for power.

Back to what you may be experience that´s probably the feeling I get, a slower truck. If I have to guess what you experience are sub optimal oil pressure level, not enough to trigger anything and it´s probably what I experience. I´d wish this truck had a reading on oil pressure, we just have a "dumb" pressure switch, it´s useful to tell you the bad news.

I live in the Dominican Republic, temps here are warm at best. The "colder" we get is about 68F, where I live. The temps have been really "cool" these days, so no hot weather to blame. About the Motorcraft synthetic blend is all we get here at the dealer. By chance I got my hands on a case of Full Synthetic that I think someone in the parts department ordered by mistake. I´ve asked for it for years from time to time and the answer has always been, no we don´t carry that, up until one sales person actually checked the computer and to his surprise they had it in stock. So I took the chance. The Full Synthetic has probably been sitting for a while, it has the API SN rating, not the SN Plus, I doubt the oil is bad, probably 2 or 3 years old. Since the 3.5 Duratec NA is not GDI I find he SN good enough, we don´t really need the SN plus.

So I´m back to Blend oil, not trying to make too much of it, truck feels fine again. Butt dyno, placebo effect, I´m loosing my mind, an actual mechanical problem, pick one, haha. I was actually looking at the oil pump and it´s been updated, I would replace it but the procedure is very much the same as replacing the water pump, will avoid that at all costs. If I ever have to replace the water pump I will for sure throw in a new updated oil pump.
 






Synthetic oil is the best for long term engine life, plain oil is the worst, and blends are in the middle. The filter is very important, but you have virtually no choices which filter better(smaller particle size bypassing). The air filter is very important, most contaminants in the oil come through the air filter. Buy the best air filter you can(not highest bragging/flowing).

The onboard OEM fuel MPG data is almost useless. Those are all exaggerated, they all display about 10% higher than reality. They are useful for live monitoring of instantaneous MPG, to help people lower their pressure on the gas pedal. That saves gas, but you have to watch it constantly to see when you are wasting gas going up hills. Plus when going down hill with no throttle, that wastes gas by not conserving kinetic energy, which makes you have to use more gas when you get past the bottom, and go back up. You should allow the speed to drop some going up hills, and go up in speed going down hills.

No one can feel the difference between oil types, not in power or mpg testing with the onboard display. That takes many tanks of fuel, filled up the same each time, and written down each time(date, miles, gallons, mpg).
 



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Synthetic oil is the best for long term engine life, plain oil is the worst, and blends are in the middle. The filter is very important, but you have virtually no choices which filter better(smaller particle size bypassing). The air filter is very important, most contaminants in the oil come through the air filter. Buy the best air filter you can(not highest bragging/flowing).

The onboard OEM fuel MPG data is almost useless. Those are all exaggerated, they all display about 10% higher than reality. They are useful for live monitoring of instantaneous MPG, to help people lower their pressure on the gas pedal. That saves gas, but you have to watch it constantly to see when you are wasting gas going up hills. Plus when going down hill with no throttle, that wastes gas by not conserving kinetic energy, which makes you have to use more gas when you get past the bottom, and go back up. You should allow the speed to drop some going up hills, and go up in speed going down hills.

No one can feel the difference between oil types, not in power or mpg testing with the onboard display. That takes many tanks of fuel, filled up the same each time, and written down each time(date, miles, gallons, mpg).
It’s only the MPG reading in the Fords that’s unreliable. My Kia is very accurate, and after my tank is filled my mileage estimate is always within 10 miles either way, unless I do serious extended idling.
 






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