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this is why an aftermarket gauge helps out

Bigcheck1

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Marlton, NJ
Year, Model & Trim Level
2004 Nissan Xterra
here's an interesting one.... see if nybody can help maybe. i justcompleted putting in the auto meter gauge for air fuel. thing works great, real neat to have. well, i drive home for the weekend, bout 105 miles, all turnpike and route 80. the gauge is reading lean all the time on the way home. this seems strange to me. after about 50 mile the check engine light comes on. stays on the rest of the way. i drop my buddy off at his house, dont trun the truck off at all. about 3 miles later th ceck engine light goes off and immediatly the gauge starts to read right, when gassed it goes to rich otherwie goes back and forth like it should. any ideas why this happened? i'm gonna scan the code in the morning.
 



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I'd lean towards an O2 sensor. That helps determine how rich/lean the motor runs. Either that or a dirty MAF sensor. It could be giving the computer erroneous air flow info.
 






How much does one of those meters cost and where did you get yours?

Dave
 






auto meter air fuel gauge, mine is the carbon fiber ultra lite version, a little more pricey but looks great. i thnk it was around 65$ i'll see what the codes say tomorrow, i'm thinking o2 as well. the maf is clean, just did it tuesday.

jeff,on another note, i just replaced the thermostat the other day cause it was causing the temp to rise to overheat when not under throttle...or so i thought. when drivin today the temp was normal, until i stopped to pay at he trnpke. when stopped, it would rise to overheat again. any ideas on this...iremeber you hae good engine knowledge. as soon as i give it throttle, tranny in neutral, giving it gas, the temp begins to go down. these readings were on the auto meter temp gauge in there now too. i'm so confused, when i got it parked at the house, i took the cap off and burped the radiator, seems there might have been air in there maybe??

fan clutch, blockage, bad coolant mxture????
 






If the temp rises when your stopped I would guess that the fan isn't turning and bringing air through the radiator. Turn the truck on and see if the fan is spinning (I wouldn't do it with your finger though, in case it is still spinning :D)

Dave

P.S. Thanks for the guage info.
 






Keep checking the radiator

If the water pump leaks a little, it may not suck fluid back from the overflow tank. Let's hope it's that and not a small head gasket leak. My parents had a small water pump leak and the engine would overheat at stop lights and go back to normal when driving. They at least checked the overflow tank sometimes and added coolant. Their solution was to wait a month till they drove 250 miles to visit me. The overfill tank was still full but I put about a gallon of coolant in the radiator. My advice to them was to buy another car which they did in a month. This particular engine was known to have head problems and Ford even extended the warrantees on this engine. Still best to get rid of it.

So low coolant level will cause upper passages to heat up and higher pump speeds wil get cooling up there. There are known intake manifold problems with this engine and that could be the source of the coolant leak and the lean mixture. My 97 just developed this problem and have developed problems wiht #4 plug fouling. So does this air fuel mixture meter tie into the existing O2 sensor?
 






Both Opera House and Big Dave are correct for what to look at. A bad fan clutch or clogged radiator would cause the temperature to rise. So can a bad head gasket, but with a bad head gasket you will be having to continually feed it antifreeze. A loose lower intake would do it too.

One thing that concerns me is that you are having a fuel ratio mixture issue at the same time. The concern is that water/antifreeze can damage an 02 sensor, so your mixture might be off because the water from a leaky head gasket cooked your 02 sensor.

What I would do. I'd do #1 thru #4 right off the bat and see if it fixes the problem. If not, then I'd do #5 & #6:

1) Check your fan and fan clutch out to make sure it's ok. When the engine is cold, it should turn freely. When the engine is hot, there should be some resistance to turning.

2) Check your radiator to make sure it's not full of crud. Pull the cap off and look at the top of the water jacket. If it's cruddy, you may have a partially blocked radiator. If you suspect it (or if you still have the original radiator in the truck), take it to a radiator shop and have it cooked out. Oh, and go get a new radiator cap. If it's weak, it won't hold pressure and will allow the coolant to boil over and bleed off the antifreeze.

3)Make sure your coolant system is full with a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water. Not enough coolant can cause similar problems. At this time of year, just having the mix off probably wouldn't cause your symptoms.

4) Check your lower intake manifold bolts.

4) Have a coolant leak down test run. Basically, you pressurize the radiatior and watch a gauge to see if the pressure drops. Any garage can do this cheaply.

5)Pull all the plugs and run a compression test on the motor. All the cylinders should be within about 10% of each other. If possible, do the test with the engine cold first and then again hot. That way a slight leak when the metal expands will show up. Pull all the plugs when you do the test so one cylinder doesn't influence the other.




Just FYI, I know that when I pulled that motor, it had no issues with overheating or fuel/air mix problems. It had never been overheated in it's life. I had never had a single problem with the motor. The only thing that had been done to the motor outside of routine maintenance was an alternator replacement. I didn't check the lower intake manifold bolts, so I don't know if they were loose at the time, but the motor did not show any signs of that problem.

After the wreck, it was throwing a code light, but that was due to the MAF getting oiled up since it sat on it's side for about 2 hours and the oil from the pan leaked everywhere. Once we cleaned that out and reset the codes, the motor ran fine with no codes.
 






Lean condition could cause the heating problem.

Well I think everyone is on track, but before looking for a cooling problem I would resolve the lean condition. The engine running lean will cause it to run hotter and the cooling problem may be related to the lean run condition. I would resoolve the lean issue first then foloow up with the cooling problems.
Run the codes see where to start.
 






just drove back to school tonight, it did it again after driving on the turnpike. i stopped in front of my apartment with the engine running and opened the cap...air came out of the overflow tank along with some coolant over the top of the tank. as soon as i did this, the temp went right back down. what the hell could this be. i might have to take it somewhere. it only does it affter driving for a distance at speed, i can drive everywhere in town and leave it parked and running and its fine.
 






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