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Time to retire the Explorer to recycling yard?

Clutchless1995

Active Member
Joined
November 9, 2006
Messages
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City, State
Alexandria, VA
Year, Model & Trim Level
1995 XLT
After 13 years of ownership and zealous maintenance (mostly by me) my 1995 Explorer with only 140,000 miles has finally reached a point where I am too tired of repairing it and will likely just have it towed away to a recycling place for a couple hundred bucks ( paid to me). After the left rear brake line blew out from rust I had it inspected and learned the rear steel lines are leaking in 2 places. Plus the front lines are about to go due to rust as are the transmission cooler lines. Combined with the terminally leaking differentials and the fact I had it on Craigslist when this happened (it is a third vehicle), I think I will just let it go. The shop said they had places that would give me a couple hundred for it. I think if I replaced them myself (which, after viewing the threads and videos, I am not inclined to do), I would not recoup much more money than just getting rid of it this way. I live in the Washington, DC area and if interested can PM me before it goes away. It has Explorer Express sway bars are they worth anything if I remove them before having it towed away?
 



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If you were not so far from me I would love to check it out for parts if nothing else.
 






Might wanna part it out if anything. Is it stock other than the express sway bars?
With only 140,000 miles I guess the interior looks good right?
You could probably get a few hundred by parting out some of the interior and the ee sway bars. Junk yard should be $500 for the truck. It runs right?

If you're mechanically inclined enough, pull the engine/trans and sell those. Or throw it up on craigslist for $800 OBO and take whatever you're offered. Sounds like a rust bucket, so don't expect much.
 






Should at least get $400 from the junkyard. (at least in MA) They told me the prices of steel are going down soon though.
CL is worth a try, but can be a hassle. Parting it out is time consuming and then you have to get rid of the rest of car.
 






I am mechanically inclined and have done all the work on it except for a couple things. However I am not inclined to spend a few days repairing the brake lines only to get a few hundred or a thousand more to sell it. The repair place called their junkyard source to come take a look and give me a price. I left on the front seat the repair and maintenance spreadsheet I had prepared to sell it as I had it on Craigslist when this happened. It runs perfectly and has only had synthetic oils since I got it in 2000 with regular trans flushes etc. It has Bilstein shocks, 4 years old, most of the front suspension replaced, supplemental trans cooler with Magnefine filter, leather interior in perfect shape, tow package, new brakes, calipers and hoses 4 years ago, new cooling hoses 3 years ago, great Michelins and a new battery last month. I don't have time or space to part it on my own. I am ready to move on and it was an extra vehicle so was not driven much, but very useful when needed. Body looks great but it is a rust bucket when you crawl under the car and look at the chassis. I have been watching the power steering lines look worse for years waiting for one to blow, but the brake lines were a surprise.
 












I prefer to let both bars go at once if I get around to removing them ths weekend. Need to check if the old ones are still in the attic.
 






What color is the exterior/interior?
 






Dark green exterior and tan leather interior with power front seats. Infinity speakers in front doors with tweeters mounted in upper part of door.
 






Thanks for all the info! I was looking for posible parts I could take from your interior,but the color scheme doesn't match. Apologies.
 






If it were me, I'd part it out and then take it to the scrap yard. The scrap yard will give you basically the same for it regardless of how much you've taken off, but you can make much more by parting out a good portion of it.

But if you're too tired to fix it, you might be too tired to part it out.
 






Think of what you may want for the swaybars. I am going to be in PA in June, so I would get to to send them to a member on the forum.
 






New EE sway bars are $405.00 so I think half price is good. Shipping to PA should be very reasonable by ground. I also have Performance Friction front (# 0652.20) and rear pads (#0667.20) new in the box, 2 new air filters, one new fuel filter and one Motorcraft driver side upper control arm new in the box. PM with offers.
 












I prefer to let both bars go at once if I get around to removing them ths weekend. Need to check if the old ones are still in the attic.

If you're scrapping it I don't think you'll need to replace the sway bars.:D
 






I cannot get the rear sway bars off as after many years the bar to body bolts are rusted solid, the heads partially stripped and are difficult to access with the shocks in front of them. So the EE bars are staying on for the ride to the junkyard! If anyone wants the PF brake pads make me an offer. You can check online how much they go for new.
 






I will sell and ship for $55.00 Performance Friction front and rear pads, 0652.20 and 0667.20 brand new in the box. PM if interested. I have positive sales feedback on the MINI Cooper forum under the name Clutchless.
 






what kind of speakers? i might be interested in those if you would be interested in shipping stuff..
 






I am not parting out the car. It is going to the recycler. They were Infinity coaxials with Infinity 1 inch dome tweeters in upper doors. They sound great. I also have a spare factory radio. I will pull the tweeters as they do not require door disassembly. $20. I think they are these:

The 1031T is a one-inch textile-dome tweeter with a large voice coil--much like a voice coil found in high-end home-audio speakers. The benefit of Infinity's textile-dome tweeter is its light weight and remarkable strength, while its large voice coil increases power handling and reduces distortion at high output levels. The 1031T tweeter also features an in-line crossover network that helps create a seamless integration with a woofer or midbass. The result? Detail, clarity and imaging added to any sound system for true, high-end, audiophile-quality performance.





Product Features

•Plus One (patent pending) woofer cone
•Edge-driven, textile-dome tweeter
•2-Ohm impedance
•Sensitivity: 93dB
•Power handling, peak: 150 watts
 



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