To cam or not to cam? 4.0 OHV

[Dono]

If it isnt something simple, like a plug backing out, or a wire not on correctly, I think I have to get that valve cover off to have a look. I cant think of another plan of action. I don't have anything to check the compression of that cylinder.

 

[Dono]

Well, I don't see anything wrong. I had a bit of an oil leak at the back, so I pulled the lower intake off. The rockers, look fine. Everything looks fine. Push rods move as they shood, rocker arms move the valve stems (I cant see the valves, of course). Thoughts?

Maybe put it back together and move spark plug to another cylinder? What else could be causing this code? Plug wire? It seemed like it was attached fine, and they are only a year old.

Hmmmm.......Whats going on?

 

[Dono]

Ok, fixed the oil leak in the back of the motor (I didn't use enough permatex black on the bottom oil valley of the lower intake).
I couldn't find an issue with the motor anywhere (Nothing Broken), so I picked up a new plug, installed it and used di-electric grease on both ends of the plug wires.

Hopefully re-using the same gasket on the lower intake and valve covers isnt an issue. Time will tell.

Looking at the delta rockers closely, I can see that the push rods are all at different heights in the pockets of the rocker assemblys. I guess the concept is the hydraulic lifter makes up for the differences. I hope so.

The lower intake took me all weekend lasy year, now, its an evenings work.

No misfire codes coming to work today, and motor is running smooth. So far, so good.

 

[Dono]

Ok, everything is working great. I'll close this thread with a few notes.

1. After the engine refresh there is deffinately more power. I'm finding that I do not need to rev the motor as high to stay with traffic. I'm betting this will give me a mileage gain (As long as I'm not in too the pedal too much)
2. After having a look at the spark plugs, the burn is clean on all cylinders. I don't think I will be fouling plugs anymore.
3. No more coolant loss. The old head gaskets didn't show evidence of a complete blow thru, or even a constant coolant leak. Was the issue of coolant loss the head gaskets, or cracked heads? Both?
4. Idle is a bit rougher, and I'm a bit surprised that the motor is still kinda noisy (I guess thats just how an OHV sounds with valvetrain noise).

Was it worth is? Deffinately. Before starting any performance mods, I'd start with this. Nothing like adding performance mods to a tired motor. This should be #1 on the list.

Now for me whats next? Efan controller should be here in a week or two. I'll install that. Then the question is underdrive pulley or SCT Tune? Im thinking SCT tune. I don't think the gains of an underdrive pulley will be as great with the clutch fan already taken out of the mix.

I'd say that If I can do a project like this, anyone can with some mechanical skill, reading what to do before you start, and the help of the people here on this board.

Truthfully, the guys here are an invaluable resourse. Its like having a mechanic that knows your motor to ask questions to a phone call away.

 

[Dono]

Ok, opening up again with my own pain.

P0303 codes, traced to compression of 90 in Cyl 3. I checked vacuum, and its a steady 19. No coolant loss. Im guessing I have a exhaust valve not closing all the way, or burnt valve. Sure hope its head. Even gasket is ok, as its coming apart anyway.

New head on its way. PITA.

Now, other wierdness I'd like to ask opinions on. All serpintine belt related.
1. Stock sized belt is now too short. Whats with that? A pulley is further away than it used to be before I took the motor apart? How?
2. Chewing up belts. A pulley is not alligned. I think the harmonic balancer pulley is sitting about an 8th of an inch too far away from the motor. The bolt is tight, holding the balancer. Also, the harmonic balancer is seated properly in the key. Thoughts?

 

[jd4242]

Did you do bottom end also?double check your belt to see if its on right.i am famous for putting belts on backwards!!takes me three or four times.it will go on two ways also.did you pay for the new head or they send it to you?i all ways like to have the shop do a valve job on new heads even and match the valve to each seat

 

[Dono]

I had to pay for the head. They are sending me a free return shipping label so they can look at for warranty. Im pretty happy with clearwaters support so far.

I didn't do the whole bottom end, just the cam.

When you say 2 ways, do you mean having the belt flipped upside down? I'll double check how I'm running the belt. I thought I was just following the pretty picture under the hood on routing.

The stock belt actually rubs on the spring housing of the tensioner. Its bizarre. I can't see how the accessory mounting brackets would go on any differently.

So, on the head issue....I wonder if I just took the one side in to have the valves seated? I really didn't want to take the other head off.

 

[snoranger]

When you say 2 ways, do you mean having the belt flipped upside down? I'll double check how I'm running the belt. I thought I was just following the pretty picture under the hood on routing.

The stock belt actually rubs on the spring housing of the tensioner. Its bizarre. I can't see how the accessory mounting brackets would go on any differently.

The brackets really cant move, you probably just routed the belt wrong.

 

[Xeek]

im willing to bet you put the tensioner pulley on backwards if the belt is really too short.
this is how mine looks, and thats how it looked before i tore it apart

 

[Dono]

Thanks, I'll check that tensioner pulley.

 

[Dono]

Pulleys look fine. I did manage to tighten the harmonic balancer some more. I'm hoping that I just didnt get it sucked in tight enough. It was hard to tighten up properly as the motor just wants to turn over (Go figure). I held the belt, and tightened as much as possible.

So, reading a couple of other ohv builds, I ordered SI valves. I figured when the new head arrives, I can pull the valves, and install new ones.

Im still struggling with pulling the other head off just to change valves that seem to be working anyway.

 

[jd4242]

Pulleys look fine. I did manage to tighten the harmonic balancer some more. I'm hoping that I just didnt get it sucked in tight enough. It was hard to tighten up properly as the motor just wants to turn over (Go figure). I held the belt, and tightened as much as possible.

So, reading a couple of other ohv builds, I ordered SI valves. I figured when the new head arrives, I can pull the valves, and install new ones.

Im still struggling with pulling the other head off just to change valves that seem to be working anyway.

You might as well sense you have to buy a complex set of gaskets and head bolts.plus it probably won't run different but SI valves flow a little better and they are one piece. Hell if you got spare money have that lower intake ported while its off,even more power

 

[Xeek]

Don't kno what else to say for the belt. That's the only one that could be instaled wrong. Unless its not routed right.

For the crank its easier if you stick a hammer up in the crank itself to keep it from turning
You never took it out of the teuck did you tho?

 

[Dono]

Nope, motor never came out. I did change the cam though. That meant yanking the harmonic balancer.

Im thinking of porting(port matching) the lower intake myself. I have a spare one off the truck right now, I just don't know where I can take it here in Winnipeg to have someone else do it.

I can port match the lower intake easily, I think.

 

[jd4242]

there is a ton that can come out.my guy made new sides to straightn and enlarge the runners.here some ruff pics just to show how much can come out and some pics of the valves

from my thread
well my new valves are here and man they are nice.they are SI portflow one piece valves.the heads thickness is way less and where it goes up to the stem is not as fat,also they are about 5grams less each and said to flow 5% better.they were $138 to my door and the part numbers are sev2027 and sev2028
new

old

new

 

[Dono]

Thanks for the pics, I didn't think there was anything to take off of the top of the lower intake.
Also, Im surprised that so much material was removed around the injector area.

Thanks!

Also, I feel better about purchasing the valves now. Looks like I'll be pulling the other head also.

I wonder If I can seat the new valves myself, or if I should take them to a machine shop. Would be easier time wise to do myself. Then I wouldnt be held up waiting for my heads to come back.

 

[Xeek]

valves are pretty easy to do. only bad part is the retainer clips.
dont forget to put the valve stem seals on the head, not just slide them on the valve stem like me lol
and dont forget to put the plug in the head that keeps the coolant from coming in lol

 

[Dono]

Ah, Xeek your funny. Thanks for the reminder. I remember the pain you wen't thru well. I DO NOT want to live that.

I removed a ton of material from my lower intake last night. I just need to use a solvent and a trip to the car wash.
Last time I used oven cleaner, but it leached some white powdery stuff from the aluminum that I couldn't clean off. I'll try something else this time.

I'll post a pic or two later (I forgot my phone at home). JD, I'll re-read your build thread also. I seem to have forgot a lot of what was in it.

 

[Dono]

Question guys.....Shaving heads.
2000 OHV
If I shave .020 off, do I have to watch push rods? I could probably just go back to stock rods.
Also, do I need to do anything to the lower intake to make sure the angles are right and the gasket seals?

Any thoughts on what that would do to my compression? I thing this motor is around 8.7??

My last compression check gave me 145-150 psi. Im sure raising my static compression a bit would still allow lower octane gas.

 

[jd4242]

It would give you about 3cc less in the combustion chamber witch will give you about a 0 .5:1 increase in compression.no stock pushrods would not work.believe they are 5.475.you should have around 5.550 now so you would have to have. 020 shorter.you could get away with 89 gas.why do you want to do this though,easiest way to increase compression would have been to run 95tm heads.