Top end rebuild

[Boose1980]

After some thinking, and Nate turning me on to rockauto, I've decided that while I'm at it, I may as we'll go all the way. Got parts ordered, and will be rebuilding the top end of my good ol' gen1 this weekend. Hope I don't run into any unexpected headaches. I wanna thank the guys who offered me some insight and guidence. Wish the old girl luck so that she pulls through.

 

[natenkiki2004]

What all are you doing in the top end? Just gaskets and valvetrain or what do you have in mind?

 

[Boose1980]

Gaskets, and valve train. The old girl has been clattering for a few years. Haven't driven her much since it started. Luckily my job allows me to sleep at night now and I have plenty of time to finally work on it. Last few times I drove it, it's been hard to start. Last time I drove it it wouldn't start until it cooled all the way down. It had to set for hours. Idk if maybe the starter is getting hot or what. I tried to jump it off the other day and it wouldn't hardly turn over. It was really struggling. Any ideas?

 

[natenkiki2004]

If it's cranking but spinning slowly, my money would be on battery cables. Here's my reasoning:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3309529&postcount=75

If it was a poor connection or worn out starter, you would just get clicking. But if there's high resistance in the cables due to corrosion, it would mean that less power is getting to the starter, but still enough to activate the solenoids.

When you had to let it sit for hours, why was that? Was it cranking but not firing? Or did it not want to spin at all?

 

[Boose1980]

It turned really slowly. Like the battery was dead. Even had a guy try to jump it off. Still nothing. I went home and went back later that night, it started right up.

 

[2stroke]

Before even messing with anything, make sure your battery is up to par. Go out there in the morning before you start it and make sure there is a minimum of 12.7 volts across the terminals.

 

[clevalley]

I had a weird issue with a boat battery this past spring; measured 12.8 across the terminals, but as soon as I hit the starter it dropped to around 3 volts... caused me all kinds of head scratching for 15 minutes until I figured this out.

If your battery is up to snuff (have it load tested) I would start eyeballing the ground cable to make sure it is providing a good ground to the frame.

 

[natenkiki2004]

Yep, slow cranking is either the battery or wiring. Take the battery to an auto parts store and have them load test it and maybe even force charge it (to try and restore some capacity). If the battery is good, it's likely time for new cables.

 

[Boose1980]

Ok. Put a new fender switch and battery cable on the gen1. It starts just as it should now. Thanks for the advice guys!

Ok now for another question. I'm moving from upstate South Carolina to dallas texas. If I don't have time to rebuild my top end before the move. Will my x be ok to drive to dallas while it's making the valve clatter? Last thing I wanna do is blow it up, but having it shipped or towed is not monetarily possible. If I keep a close eye on the oil pressure and temp gauges will it make it?

 

[natenkiki2004]

The oil pressure gauge is a dummy gauge and by the time it reads low, it's too late. I think it's triggered at 5PSI or something ridiculously low. Always good to keep an eye on temp gauges but it won't do anything as far as the valvetrain.

If you read on here, you'll see about people running clattering valvetrains for 50,000 miles without issue. It depends on how bad it's clattering. Is yours making noise all the time?

If you HAVE to drive it, it should be ok, I would just drive it at about 60MPH, so that the torque converter is locked up and you're at minimum RPM. Mine chatters in the morning when it's cold and until the engine warms up, I try to keep RPM below 2,000.

 

[Boose1980]

It does it all the time, but after it gets up to operating temp it's not as noticeable. I keep a mechanical oil guage in the truck at all times. When I said "keep an eye on the oil pressure" I meant that as I stop to fill up with gas, I can let the engine cool down and check the pressure at the feed line to the sending unit. And I actually found a place online that sells rebuilt heads for explorers. I can get new heads for 175$ apiece. The new ones will be warrantied and complete. If I take my time I might just try to go that route and knock it out in a day. Thoughts?

 

[larrydd999]

I've read - on this site - that there are two generations of (interchangeable) heads for the Gen1 Ex's, and the newer ('93'94) ones are improved with less chance of cracking due to heat stress. Others with more experience than I will probably be able to tell you more.