Torque Converter Question

[crjmaso1]

In my 03 EB 4.6, my "check transmission" indicator came on and the O/D light began to flash. This happened while going up hill. Once I shut the car off, it reset itself and didn't come back until I started driving again, maybe 10-15 minutes of driving. It doesn't seem to drive any differently.

I brought it to my mechanic and used a scan tool. It read that the "O/D clutch was stuck off". This car has 112k on it and don't know when the last transmission flush was done. Is it worth it to have the tranny flushed??

I called a transmission place and they told me that the torque converter would have to be rebuilt....$2800-3500 job!!!

Does anybody have advice?

 

[colintrax]

Honestly, just buy a new torque convertor ($300) and have a back yard mechanic replace it ($500ish)

The torque convertor isn't hard to get to. Drop the transmission, and slide the TC off.
If it's really just the torque convertor. Is it not locking up at highway speeds?

 

[crjmaso1]

No it actually seems to drive fine. It even shift in and out of O/D when this happens too.

 

[colintrax]

Hmmm, that's weird. No issues but it's got a code... Have you checked the oil level? How many RPMs are you spinning at 70mph?

 

[colintrax]

Disconnect the battery for awhile to let the computer clear the code, maybe it was a 1 time thing. If the code doesn't come back, get a trans flush

 

[crjmaso1]

I have driven it several times since the first incident. It happens every time I drive it but seems to only occur when the engine and tranny warm up. I am not sure but I believe the RPMs are around 2000-2500 at 70 mph with the O/D on. I have looked all around for a tranny dipstick but haven't much luck in finding it... Every time I shut the car off and restart it, it seems to reset itself because the light doesn't come on until driving for approximately 10-15 minutes.

It does not shift hard except every once in awhile when I am stopped and put it in reverse. Sometimes there is a short delay and then it goes into gear hard. But this is seldom.

 

[Explorer0204]

I have driven it several times since the first incident. It happens every time I drive it but seems to only occur when the engine and tranny warm up. I am not sure but I believe the RPMs are around 2000-2500 at 70 mph with the O/D on. I have looked all around for a tranny dipstick but haven't much luck in finding it... Every time I shut the car off and restart it, it seems to reset itself because the light doesn't come on until driving for approximately 10-15 minutes.

It does not shift hard except every once in awhile when I am stopped and put it in reverse. Sometimes there is a short delay and then it goes into gear hard. But this is seldom.

That clunking problem into reverse is a TSB problem. It isn't too big of a deal in that it really isn't something that would be worth taking a trans apart to fix.

As for the overdrive issue unplug the battery and try that as mentioned, and otherwise consider a fluid flush. I don't know how many miles your trans has since it's last flush but if it is more than 50-70k Sometimes it can actually be worse to flush it. That being said on my old explorer I had it flushed at 80k with no issues and it was really bad apparently... So...

There is no trans fluid dipstick. It's stupid I know.

 

[colintrax]

Don't you remove the fill bolt like on a differential to check the fluid level?

 

[crjmaso1]

Thanks everyone, I will try disconnecting the battery and see if that is a fix. I will consider getting a flush. I am however a little concerned about the mileage if I risk it being a bad idea. Any other ideas or advice please let me know! Greatly appreciate it.

 

[D Hook]

Be sure to read the thread about disconnecting and reconnecting the battery. It can effect the transmission as well as idle action.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=396533

 

[crjmaso1]

Be sure to read the thread about disconnecting and reconnecting the battery. It can effect the transmission as well as idle action.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=396533

Thank you, greatly appreciate the tip!

 

[Explorer0204]

Don't you remove the fill bolt like on a differential to check the fluid level?

Nope unfortunately.

The only way to do it is as follows.

1. Jack the vehicle up and make sure it is level (close to it)
2. Run the vehicle until the trans fluid is at (80-120 degrees)
3. Take off the T27 (edit: I think it is actually a t 30...) torx screw in the middle of the transmission drain plug. If fluid comes out then you are overfull. If no fluid comes out then you are possibly underfilled, but you also could be filled perfectly. The only way to know for sure is to use a suction gun or a fluid pump to pump fluid into the transmission with an adapter fitting OTC 6604. You then pump enough fluid into it for a steady stream to come out. You let it drain until the fluid is only dripping out and you then take the adapter off and put the little screw back in.
4. Swear as you are covered in ATF because ford decided that the average human did not have the right to check the status of their trans fluid under the hood like most other vehicles that have ever existed.

 

[makuloco2000]

Nope unfortunately.

The only way to do it is as follows.

1. Jack the vehicle up and make sure it is level (close to it)
2. Run the vehicle until the trans fluid is at (80-120 degrees)
3. Take off the T27 torx screw in the middle of the transmission drain plug. If fluid comes out then you are overfull. If no fluid comes out then you are possibly underfilled, but you also could be filled perfectly. The only way to know for sure is to use a suction gun or a fluid pump to pump fluid into the transmission with an adapter fitting OTC 6604. You then pump enough fluid into it for a steady stream to come out. You let it drain until the fluid is only dripping out and you then take the adapter off and put the little screw back in.
4. Swear as you are covered in ATF because ford decided that the average human did not have the right to check the status of their trans fluid under the hood like most other vehicles that have ever existed.

Here is the video version for future reference.

 

[Explorer0204]

Here is the video version for future reference.
bOgs_zbzA5I

Turns out I learned all that from you...Kinda Ironic as that is the video I watched to do it myself...than you!

 

[pet575]

I'm currently experiencing the same thing. Shifts into/out of OD just fine, but the TC doesn't lock out. Every once in a while it will randomly do it, but it pretty much gives me the error every time I drive-even if it locks out for a little while it will likely fail to do so again during the same trip.

This could be a bad TCC solenoid, the TC itself, or a part in the valve body that controls this. My electrical testing on the solenoid was inconclusive and I've just been driving it like this since it started. I'm likely going to just get rid of the vehicle since it has 250K miles on it.

Quote I got for a complete rebuild, including the TC, was around $1800. Don't know if the price is just high for what you got or if your location causes that large increase as well. Seems awful high to me, though.

Good luck.

 

[ponkotsu]

Nope unfortunately.

The only way to do it is as follows.

1. Jack the vehicle up and make sure it is level (close to it)
2. Run the vehicle until the trans fluid is at (80-120 degrees)
3. Take off the T27 (edit: I think it is actually a t 30...) torx screw in the middle of the transmission drain plug. If fluid comes out then you are overfull. If no fluid comes out then you are possibly underfilled, but you also could be filled perfectly. The only way to know for sure is to use a suction gun or a fluid pump to pump fluid into the transmission with an adapter fitting OTC 6604. You then pump enough fluid into it for a steady stream to come out. You let it drain until the fluid is only dripping out and you then take the adapter off and put the little screw back in.
4. Swear as you are covered in ATF because ford decided that the average human did not have the right to check the status of their trans fluid under the hood like most other vehicles that have ever existed.

Much easier to pump the fluid into one of the speed sensor holes. I've never had to check mine after I rebuilt it. But I think if I were to do that, I'd just add a 1/2 qt while it's cold, put the sensor back in, start it, remove the plug and let the excess drip out. It's a messy job but should never need to be serviced unless you have a leak.

 

[colintrax]

Nope unfortunately.

The only way to do it is as follows.

1. Jack the vehicle up and make sure it is level (close to it)
2. Run the vehicle until the trans fluid is at (80-120 degrees)
3. Take off the T27 (edit: I think it is actually a t 30...) torx screw in the middle of the transmission drain plug. If fluid comes out then you are overfull. If no fluid comes out then you are possibly underfilled, but you also could be filled perfectly. The only way to know for sure is to use a suction gun or a fluid pump to pump fluid into the transmission with an adapter fitting OTC 6604. You then pump enough fluid into it for a steady stream to come out. You let it drain until the fluid is only dripping out and you then take the adapter off and put the little screw back in.
4. Swear as you are covered in ATF because ford decided that the average human did not have the right to check the status of their trans fluid under the hood like most other vehicles that have ever existed.

Haha that's what I thought. Thanks

 

[makuloco2000]

I'm currently experiencing the same thing. Shifts into/out of OD just fine, but the TC doesn't lock out. Every once in a while it will randomly do it, but it pretty much gives me the error every time I drive-even if it locks out for a little while it will likely fail to do so again during the same trip.

This could be a bad TCC solenoid, the TC itself, or a part in the valve body that controls this. My electrical testing on the solenoid was inconclusive and I've just been driving it like this since it started. I'm likely going to just get rid of the vehicle since it has 250K miles on it.

Quote I got for a complete rebuild, including the TC, was around $1800. Don't know if the price is just high for what you got or if your location causes that large increase as well. Seems awful high to me, though.

Good luck.

#1 cause is the tcc modulator valve sticks in the valvebody. Had a cust with one recently after not seeing this for years and was hoping to shoot a video on it but they never brought it back because it started working again on its own. The valve just sticks in there.