Torque Converter wouldn't unlock... | Ford Explorer Forums

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Torque Converter wouldn't unlock...

pugsy

Well-Known Member
Joined
October 10, 2005
Messages
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City, State
Toronto, ON
Year, Model & Trim Level
'92 XLT 4x4 (4 door)
So I was driving yesterday at a cruising speed of around 85 Km/h, tranny kicked into OD as per normal. Then I slowed down a bit and I noticed my tach was down at 1K RPM, I stepped on the gas to try to kick it out of OD, but it wouldn't. I shifted into D, then into 2, torqure converter was still locked....was like I was driving a manual transmission! So I put into neutral and coasted to the side of the road. Turned off the engine, and then restarted to see if it would clear any electronic issues. I put it into reverse and it stalled out (was still locked). So I started it again and put it into drive, and it was fine, took off, gears changed normal as before and still kicked into OD at the proper time, then torque converter would unlock when I slow down. And it's been fine since!!
Questions:
- what would cause this to happen? Is my tranny telling me it's time to sell this beast? haha
- if it happens again, what can I do to correct it....ie, if I'm on the highway and crusing in OD, and I can't get into a lower gear when I need it - what should I do?
 



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There are internal filters which capture small fragments. They might be clogged. There is a spring in the underside of the case behind the valve body, a sock style filter pressed into the separator plate in the valve body, and small screens in front of the solenoids (on some but not all designs).
 






Do you think this was an isolated incident? Been driving it today and it hasn't done it since. Would a gasket/filter change help? Or cause further problems.
 












I've had 'er almost 2 years now, and not sure the last time it was changed or if it's ever been serviced for that matter. I've been told by some mechanics that if you have an old tranny and you don't know if it's ever had a fluid/filter change or flush, you best leave it alone or it could cause more problems then it fixes.
To that note, I have a leak in a seal or the filler tube or something and I'm down about a quart a month, so I'm sure the fluid is staying somewhat fresh cause I top it up all the time. I'm just worried about the filter not doing it's job.
What you think I should do about the leak?
 












I'm pretty much novice when it comes to the tranny's on these things. You'll have to pretty much spell it out for me where it is, what to look for, etc.
Sorry for the incompetance!! lol
 






The vacuum modulator is located on the passenger's side of the transmission. It has a vacuum hose going to the intake manifold. The part on the manifoild is called the vacuum tree or otherwise known as the "octopus connector".
 






Where to begin...

Most of these items have been covered in great length on this forum, you should spend some quality time searching, especially in the tranny section. Brooklyn and Glacier are great resources.

Was the fluid level full at the time you were having that problem with the gears shifting? Low fluid often causes shifting issues, and they go away when fluid is added.

As for your leak, let's start with the basics: Are you seeing tranny fluid on the ground under the truck?

If not, it's probably the modulator. The fluid gets sucked into the engine and burns away, you get no outward indication (some people report more pinging than normal).

As mentioned, pull the vacuum line off the manifold tree (aka octopus). If you see ATF in the vacuum line, your modulator is bad. It is located on the pass. side, on the top half of the tranny. This means you can't see it from under the truck. There are two options: remove the cat, or go through the access panel on the hump in front of the center console. This is a time-consuming job, either way you do it!!!

If you see ATF on the ground in the front of the truck (near the radiator), your tranny cooler (rubber) lines are probably leaking. These are easy to replace, just be sure to pull the grille and clean the front of the A/C condensor (or radiator of you have no A/C). This will help your operating temp.

If you see ATF on the ground under the tranny, check the pan to see if any bolts are missing, or if the leak seems to be coming from the pan gasket. Replace the filter and gasket, bolts, etc. as needed.

In terms of tranny repairs, these fixes are extremely cheap, parts would be under $50 total to do all the jobs. If these fixes don't stop the leaking, you may be looking at big money to fix something internal.

As for the "old fluid" concern, all I can say is just change it. I went through this as well, and spent a foolish amount of time putting it off, reading all sorts of online info, asking mechanics, etc. Bottom line is, changing the fluid won't hurt anything.

The main reason mechanics don't want to get involved is that lots of people abuse the tranny fluid, and only change it when they start having trouble. They bring it to a shop, have the fluid changed, and sometimes the problem gets worse. The real cause is in all probability the fact that they ignored it for so long, and the tranny was on its way out anyway, but they blame the shop, because that was the "only thing that changed..."

As someone bluntly put it to me: what possible good do you really expect to gain from old, dirty, worn out oil of any kind?

Of course, you really should be sure to not just drop the pan and change the filter, but do the full flush (there are posts here on the technique to do this at home). Your tranny sounds like it's leaking like mine was (I like to think of it as "self-changing", yeah, that's the ticket...), so your fluid may be fairly clean and you may get away without the flush, but that's your call.

Hope this helps.

Mike
 






The shift selector seal is another very common area to leak. You have to drop the pan, remove the lock nut, and retaining pin. The seal is removed from inside of the case on the outer side (driver's side). It's pressed in, but could easily be popped out. It's behind the shift linkage arm.
 






The leak is coming from right under the tranny and seems to slow once the level is down a bit, once I top it up so the level's in the cross-hatched area on the dipstick, it leaks a lot more. Therefore I've ruled out the pan gasket but I tightened the bolts anyhow with no improvement.
The level may have been slightly low when the converter locked up, but it's been lower and never done it before, and I haven't added any fluid and it hasn't done it since. It was a hot day, maybe there was an electronic glitch in a sensor or something.
Anyhow...thanks for the posts....I'll check the tranny section for more info. I most likely won't be doing the work myself, but if I bring it to a shop, I'd like to be informed so they don't pull the wool over my eyes.
 






Clean the transmission very thoroughly, and check it after driving a few miles. You should be able to find where the leak is coming from. Check the case vent on top. ATF should only be added while the engine is running. ATF could leak out of the case vent if it's added with the engine off.
 






Made an appt. with AAMCO for next week to have them take a look and see what they make of it. I topped it up again yesterday (with engine running) and still leaking :-(
I'm hoping for a simple fix - if not, then she'll be messing up the driveway a little while longer!! haha
 






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