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Solved Torsion Bar 101, Everything you Need to look for!

Prefix for threads that contain problems that have been resolved, and there is an answer within the thread.
It is already stated above in one form or another :D
but what it boils down to is as you tighten the adjuster bolt the torsion bars are tightened (stiffened) these tighter "springs" in the front result in more presure on the IFS causing it to "lift" the front of the truck.
 



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Re: Torrsion Bar 101, Everything you Need to look for!

Originally posted by CBoug76
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Sure is dirty under there! :D
 






let me say this, if its clean under there on yours, you are Babying your Explorer TOO much!
 






no mine is just as bad. It is just nice to see those scratches on the torsion bar mounts!:D
 






Very nice write up. A friend is going to help me do mine so we do it right. as well as do the shackles to even it up. Me happy!
 






reply on 2wd

Ok, so when I do the torsion twist, i just use a socket wrench and twist the bolt, like 2 times to level the front end out with the back. And afterwards, i need to go get an alignment?
 






yes
 












eventualy if you go too high you will have excessive wear on the CV joints.
 






reply

I just want to level my x. How high do yo urecommend i go. I don't want to damage the x, i just want to level. Also, what are cv joints?
 






bubble874 - what year is your X?
 












Then you won't be able to do the torsion twist at all. Your 91 uses coil springs, not torsion bars. To level yours out, you'll need lift coils or coil spring spacers.
 






Just to clarify this the torsion twist if for 2nd gen Explorers. 91-94 explorers will need lift coils or spacers. Am I correct in this?? I was sure that this was the case.
 






yes you are correct
 






Has anyone done the ball joint flip on an X? I'm not even sure you can. I also have a Trooper 1st Gen and cranked the T bars and then to get back articulation I took the ball joints from the top of the controll and bounted them on the bottom of the upper control arm. You can even add spacers. Helps with the CV joints as well.
 






Originally posted by SidewalkMan
Has anyone done the ball joint flip on an X? I'm not even sure you can. I also have a Trooper 1st Gen and cranked the T bars and then to get back articulation I took the ball joints from the top of the controll and bounted them on the bottom of the upper control arm. You can even add spacers. Helps with the CV joints as well.
Your not going to get any better travel than you would with just longer shocks. You will see that the cv shaft will limit it and if you go to using the cv shaft to limit it then as soon as you gas it say good by to the cv shaft!

Also there realy isn't anyway to move the ball joints on the X without comprimising performance, and without some custom fabrication.
 






I've seen posts where people say they got as much as 3-4 inches, and "eventualy if you go too high you will have excessive wear on the CV joints."

How high can I go and avoid and potential problems?
 






when I went to go do mine I only got 6 turns out of each side, I bought the X used so i guess someone played with it but I was suprised b/c it didnt seem like it by looking at it. How many turns do you guys get until you max out?
 



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Originally posted by Rx4phun
when I went to go do mine I only got 6 turns out of each side, I bought the X used so i guess someone played with it but I was suprised b/c it didnt seem like it by looking at it. How many turns do you guys get until you max out?

There are many different torsion bars out there. Do a search for torsion bar codes. You probably have softer torsion bars for a better ride. 6 turns is quite a bit, but if they are soft bars it won't make much of a difference. Another thing people (myself included) have done is to get longer adjuster bolts. You usually have to match up thr thread and go to a specialty fastner store and get them to order a couple for you. New torsion bars are $50 each. You can find them at salvage yards for around $50 for both. code "B" is the stiffest.

With CV joints you should not go more than 2". Even @ 2" you will wear your CVs faster than normal, but much higher than that you may see some binding.
 






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