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Trans Nightmare!

bulldozer67

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Where to start - it's been a 8 week adventure and I still don't have a proper shifting transmission. I have a 2005 X with the 4.0 and the 5r55w. The original transmission burnt up (couldn't even move it). I bought a reman for $2k, pulled the old one out and put the new one it. It banged hard from 2nd to 3rd and the overdrive light drive came on flashing / trans overheat light came on the dash (with synthetic fluid). Sent that back and got another that shifted hard 1st to 2nd with no lights, but it smelled like burnt trans fluid whenever you drove it. It also had synthetic. Once again sent that one back and got another one (all these are rebuilt by Drive Power btw). Along with this new one I also purchased 3 new speed sensors and the range/neutrul saftey switch. It is running mercron V fluid. This one from park to reverse has a 5 second delay and engages hard when it does go in. However you can shift from drive to reverse and it does fine. On top of that all forward gears were normal for about the first 25 miles, but now I have a hard engage on 3rd to drive shift and the overdrive/check trans light lit up. I disconnected the battery for 5 minutes and now it engages hard on 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to drive and the transmission overheat light shows in addition to the others.

I don't know what to do at this point. Everytime the battery has been disconnected so it has had a change to reset. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
 



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Hand Grenade in the air intake?
 






Take it back to the same joint you got the last 3 from, get a refund and try another shop. Then you may need that hand grenade and a good insurance company or there is always the.."It stalled on the railway tracks, officer and my transmission wouldnt work" method.

disclaimer: lynchywa does not endorse these statements nor has he ever tried to defraud an insurance co.:D
 






^seriously^


These "remans" are probably not "remans" - They get cores from other meltdowns and slap a soft rebuild into it and meanwhile the bores are all out of round and viola - fail. fail. fail.

You might actually start scouting for a salvage unit. Something that hasn't melted down.



There are a lot of transmission rebuilders that won't touch a 5r55e for this very reason. I am sorry for your troubles.
 






You have suffered the tortures of the "transmission-damned". Too bad. I had a 4R55E go out on our '96, bought reman. from Ford, $2,000 and it turned out to be A-OK in every way except 1st. gear whined a little bit with gear-noise, perfectly acceptable, sounded like an old FMX.

I suspect the remark about not totally rebuilding is no doubt true. Good luck straightening out this dilemma, you deserve a break at this point! imp
 






Drive Power assured me they bore the valve bodies, change the solenoids etc. It sucks because they don't reimburse me all the fluid (hence the reason I stopped using synthetic). I was wondering if a flash from ford would make any difference? I really don't want to pay another $100 at this point if it won't make a difference though. I was hoping the 3rd one would be right - especially considering the rep I talked to assured me he would select this one and dyno it etc personally.
 






Hopefully they are giving you the proper transmission because 2004 uses 5R55S not the 5R55W. The 5R series of transmissions are very problematic.
 






Mine is a 2005. They have sent me the 4wd version once, but I don't think that would make a difference. I'm at a loss on this one.
 






The best way to buy a used or "Reman" trans is to use a shop that tests the unit on a transmission dyno before shipping out.

This machine is programmed to mimic a variety of driving scenarios for your specific vehicle. Most problems will be exposed during this testing and can be addressed before delivery.
 






Drive Power assured me that this transmission has been dyno'd. Does anyone know if a flash from the dealer would make any difference?
 






Drive Power assured me that this transmission has been dyno'd. Does anyone know if a flash from the dealer would make any difference?

Well, the harsh shifting you experienced in the first two units are typically valve body / solenoid issues discussed here often. IMO, these would be obvious if dynoed with the proper equipment and with the right program.

However, some here have also stated that the shift kick was remedied by flashing the trans firmware.

Personally, I'd go to another shop.
 






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