Trans not going to 3rd on 2002 Sport

[abakedapplepie]

So last night I went off roading, it got much worse than I ever imagined and by the time I got back to civilization, my O/D light was flashing. I was under the impression that meant my transmission was overheating, and I thought it had something to do with running my 4-wheel for so long. Anyway, I got back on the road and started driving as normal, and my ex wont go into 3rd! It goes first, second, then I'm assuming slips back down to 1st because when it tries to go to 3rd I just rev really high but its not in neutral. Anyway, the O/d light used to be flashing constantly throughout this. I reset the PCM overnight and now there is no flashing O/D light. I've never heard any suspect noises, my transmission light has never come on, and the O/D is no longer flashing but the problem is still there. Any ideas on what could be the problem? I'm really hoping it's a small fix - I have to drive home for thanksgiving. Oh, the truck has 165k miles on it. Is it at least safe to drive around the town limping like this?

 

[swetrid]

Could be valvebody gasket problem, broken band or servo piston.

 

[abakedapplepie]

Is there anything I could look at on the outside for any glaring damage from offroading? Will my trans present codes if theres no lights on?

 

[lynnboy021]

i am having the same problem and its my band its only 20 a band its just the labor thats the big bucks

 

[abakedapplepie]

Yeah, I'm worried its a band too. But why isn't the trans light on?

Anyway, what sort of labor cost is it to replace a band if thats the issue? Or, how hard is it to do yourself?t

 

[lynnboy021]

my light is not on also but when it was it said it was the solenoid block wich it was 300 for it but i changed it and i dont get that bang anymore but it did not fix the 3ed gear slipping, so i have alldata and i was looking up the tsb and the problem i am having is right on the tsb but why the light does not come on i have no clue. i really dont know the labor price but i am sure it might be more then 200 i think. its really easy to do it your self you can get the job done for a first timer in like 5 hrs and it will only cast you like $40 for two bands... if you are going to do the job your self you should rent or buy a tranny jack..

Raise and support the vehicle.
If transmission disassembly or installation of new transmission is necessary, drain the transmission fluid.
Install the drain plug when finished.

Remove the two RH heat shield bolts and position the RH heat shield aside.

Disconnect the two heated oxygen sensor electrical connectors.

Disconnect the two catalyst monitor sensor electrical connectors.

Remove the RH heat shield bolts.

Remove the RH heat shield bolt and remove the heat shield.

Remove the LH heat shield bolt.

Remove the plastic shield on the right side of the crossmember near the fuel tank.

NOTE: The RH side is shown, LH side is similar.
Remove the two upper crossmember bolts (two on each side).

Remove the bolts, springs, flag nuts and separate the muffler from the converter.
Discard the gasket.
Discard the flag nuts.

NOTE: The LH side is shown, RH is similar.
Remove the four converter-to-manifold nuts.

Install a suitable jackstand under the transfer case.

Remove the RH side crossmember bolts.

Remove the LH side crossmember bolts.

Remove the transmission support insulator nuts and remove the crossmember.

NOTE: This step may require an assistant.
Remove the transmission mounted exhaust hanger and the 3-way converter system.


1 Remove the bolt and converter assembly. 2 If required, remove the second bolt and mount.

Remove the shift cable and bracket.

Position the manual lever out of park.

Index-mark the front axle pinion flange and the front driveshaft.

Index-mark the front output shaft assembly and the front driveshaft Constant Velocity (CV) joint.

Remove and discard the bolts and washers.

Remove and discard the bolts and universal joint retainers.

CAUTION: Always disconnect the front driveshaft from the transfer case first. Otherwise, the weight of the driveshaft can pinch the boot between the shaft and the boot can and cause the boot to tear.
CAUTION: Tape the bearing cups to the driveshaft to prevent them from falling off of the spider.

NOTE: The front driveshaft CV joint is not repairable.

Remove the driveshaft.

NOTE: The pinion flange is shown, transfer case flange is similar.
Remove the rear driveshaft bolts.

1 Mark the location of the flanges.
2 Remove the eight bolts.

NOTE: Do not use a hammer.
Remove the driveshaft from the flange using a pry bar.

4.6L engine

Remove the electrical connector cover.

Remove the starter wire and the positive battery cable.

Remove the starter motor bolts and starter.

Remove the flexplate cover.

Remove the access cover.

NOTE: Make an identifying mark on the nut, stud and flexplate to allow for correct installation.
Remove the four torque converter nuts.

4.0L engine

Remove the starter and position off to the side.

NOTE: Make an identifying mark on the nut, stud and flexplate to allow for correct installation.
Remove the four torque converter nuts.

Remove the lower transmission retaining bolts.

All vehicles

Disconnect the RH catalyst monitor connector and the fuel lines from the bracket.

Disconnect the RH heated oxygen sensor from the transmission.

If equipped, disconnect the shift motor electrical connector.

Disconnect the LH heated oxygen sensor and the harness clip from the transmission.

Disconnect the LH catalyst monitor connector from the transmission.

Move the rubber boot back to gain access to the connector.

Disconnect the digital Transmission Range (TR) sensor connector.

Disconnect the Turbine Shaft Speed (TSS) sensor, Output Shaft Speed (OSS) sensor and Intermediate Shaft Speed (ISS) sensor electrical connectors.

NOTE: Clean the area around connector to prevent contamination of the solenoid body connector.
Remove the screw from the solenoid body connector and disconnect the connector.

Disconnect the harness retainers.

CAUTION: Do not damage the cooler tubes. Hold the transmission case fittings with a wrench.
Disconnect the transmission cooler tubes.

WARNING: Secure the transmission to the transmission jack with a safety chain. Failure to follow these instructions can result in personal injury.
Support the transmission with a transmission jack.

Remove the jackstand from under the transfer case.

4.6L engine

NOTE: The RH side is shown, LH side is similar.
Remove the four front crossmember bolts and the crossmember.

Remove the seven engine-to-transmission retaining bolts.

4.0L engine

Remove the six engine-to-transmission retaining bolts and position the fuel line bracket out of the way.
All vehicles

Lower the transmission and transfer case as an assembly from the vehicle.

Install the special tool.

NOTE: If the transmission is being serviced, the transfer case will need to be removed.
Remove the transfer case from the back of the transmission.

Remove the bolts and the bracket.
Disconnect the vent hose.
If contamination is present, backflush and clean the transmission fluid cooler.

if you need how to install the tranny let me know...




TSB 04-24-17

12/13/04

5R55W TRANSMISSION - NO 3RD GEAR OR
SLIPPING 2-3 SHIFT - DTCS P0733 AND P0745 -
VEHICLES BUILT PRIOR TO 3/4/2002

FORD:
2002 EXPLORER

MERCURY:
2002 MOUNTAINEER

This article supersedes TSB 03-25-4 to update the description for labor operation "B". There have been no changes made to the TSB procedure.

ISSUE
Some 2002 Explorer/Mountaineer vehicles built prior to 3/4/2002 with 5R55W transmission, may exhibit no 3rd gear or slipping 2-3 shift with diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) P0733 and P0745 present. This may be due to a broken intermediate band.

ACTION
If the conditions described are verified:

^ Follow Service Procedure "A" to confirm band is broken.

^ Follow Service Procedure "B" after verifying a band is broken.


Per Procedure "B", if a broken band is found replacement of both the OD and intermediate bands and pistons will be necessary. However, only an inspection of the direct clutch drum may be necessary. The drum should not be replaced unless damage is found.

NOTE THIS ARTICLE DOES NOT APPLY TO ANY OTHER CONDITIONS OR COMPONENTS THAT MAY CAUSE SIMILAR SYMPTOMS AND IS ONLY WRITTEN TO COVER THESE SPECIFIC CONDITIONS.

SERVICE PROCEDURE

PROCEDURE "A" - BROKEN BAND VERIFICATION

CAUTION WHILE PERFORMING THE FOLLOWING PROCEDURE DO NOT ALLOW BAND ADJUSTMENT SCREW TO BACK OUT. BAND STRUT COULD FALL OUT OF POSITION.

1. Loosen the intermediate band locknut on the band adjustment screw.

2. Using the special service tool (307-5022), tighten the suspect band adjustment screw to 10 lb.ft (14 N.m).

a. If the band adjustment torque cannot be achieved, both bands will need to be replaced. Proceed to PROCEDURE "B".

b. If the proper torque is achieved, the band is OK and does not need to be replaced. Proceed to Step 3 of PROCEDURE "A".


3. Lubricate the locknut seal with petroleum jelly prior to installation.

a. Remove the band locknut and discard.

b. Install a NEW band locknut.

c. Using the special service tool (307-5022), tighten the band adjustment screw to 10 lb-ft (14 N.m).

d. Back off the screw exactly two (2) turns and hold that position.

e. Tighten the intermediate band locknut.

f. Hold the band adjustment screw stationary.

g. Tighten the band locknut to 40 lb-ft (54 N.m).

h. Continue with normal diagnosis and repair for the condition as outlined in the Workshop Manual.



PROCEDURE "B" - VERIFIED BROKEN BAND

NOTE REPLACEMENT OF THE EXTENSION HOUSING SEAL AND BUSHING ARE NOT REQUIRED. DO NOT DISASSEMBLE BEYOND THE DIRECT CLUTCH ASSEMBLY. ALL SUBASSEMBLY STEPS ARE NOT REQUIRED FOR THIS PROCEDURE.

Using the following procedure, replace the bands and servos. Inspect the direct clutch drum and replace ONLY IF DAMAGED.

1. Remove transmission assembly, refer to the Workshop Manual Section 307-01.

2. Following the Workshop Manual steps found in Section 307-01 remove and discard the front and intermediate bands and the front and intermediate servos.

3. Remove the direct clutch drum.

4. Inspect the direct clutch drum for scoring or damage, DO NOT REPLACE THE DRUM UNLESS IT IS DAMAGED. For replacement procedures, refer to the Workshop Manual Section 307-01 (Automatic Transmission, Disassembly and Assembly of Subassemblies Direct Clutch Drum Assembly).

NOTE DO NOT DISASSEMBLE BEYOND THE DIRECT CLUTCH ASSEMBLY. NO OTHER SUBASSEMBLIES NEED TO BE DISASSEMBLED.

5. Following the Workshop Manual, reassemble the transmission and install BOTH NEW service bands (7D034), a NEW intermediate servo piston and rod assembly (7D021), and a NEW front servo piston and rod assembly (7D021). ONLY IF DAMAGED INSTALL A NEW DIRECT CLUTCH DRUM ASSEMBLY (7D044).

6. Install the transmission assembly, refer to the Workshop Manual procedures found in 307-01.

7. Verify the condition has been corrected.








Parts Block







Labor Operation Claiming Chart

OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE

WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage

DEALER CODING
CONDITION
BASIC PART NO. CODE
7D034 01


hope all this info helps you out

 

[sohip]

My wifes 4.0 did similar on the weekend and has been parked since....but on her's the OD light flashes like crazy and the check engine light comes on.

Is yours a V6 or V8 ?

Is it better to try fixing the bands first and if it doesnt work go buy a solenoid block ?

 

[lynnboy021]

yes sohip the od light does flash and the check engine does come on mines did the same but some times it does not do it ya its crazy. yes you are right its better to fix the bands first but my block was about to go and when i fixed it i dont get the bang and i get smooth shifting now but yes you can try to adjust the bands first and if that dont work then you will have to replace the bands

 

[sohip]

This is awesome ! I get to drive it, if I can fix it. Worth a try !

Wife told me to call a tow truck to haul it away.... mine now ..lol .

 

[lynnboy021]

just remember that you are going under a truck and the tranny and 4x4case is hevey so if you have another person it would help you out alot. i am doing mine tomorrow after work oh you should rent a tranny floor jack to help you out also.... good luck and be safe

 

[sohip]

yeah, I pulled a tranny/diff out off my superduty.... that was heavy.

I made a solid tranny cradle out of 2x4's and plywood that bolted to my floor jack, then i put a strap across the whole deal pulled it out and reinstalled it alone on the driveway. just reaching the top tranny bolts involves 4' of extensions and a wobble... fun needless to say i had no problems falling asleep after a couple of cold ones...lol

 

[lynnboy021]

today i replace both my bands and all my gears shift more then good and no slipping at all really easy job to do i was going to take pics but i forgot the camera. did you do yours yet??

 

[sohip]

I wont do my wifes until i get my "project" out of the garage, should be next weekend. I live in canada and it is just too cold to do outside. Is this as straight forward as that write up or is there a link with some pics somewhere.

So this really works, amazing... how many people have gotten hooked into new trannies. We were literally going to call pick and pull and get ours towed, no questions asked.... really all ive done on ours is change the alternator in 2 years we've owned it.

I will post back when I get it done..

 

[sohip]

OK, finally after a month I finallly got a chance to get under it to look and things look TIGHT ! I cant even get a wrench in there to loosen the lock nut to "check" if the bands are broken.

Should I just bite the bullet and pull off the drive shaft and gear cable or is there a way to get in there with out too much commitment ?

Also does anyone have a link to the instructions with the pictures that lynnboy021 has posted because I need all the help I can get

thanks

 

[lynnboy021]

if i was you i would remove the drive shaft and cable like you said and go from there.. pm me your email and i will give you info with pics