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How to: trans removal in progress 3-6-04

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Excellent point. I'd like to expound on why that isn't a good idea, as if had even thought of trying to do it that way, but I hadn't. I stand corrected - thanks Rookie (hardly a Rookie if you ask me). Now let me add a couple of random thoughts. I guess when I spent the time to remove a trannie, I'd want to think about the whats and whys of the failure I'm fixing. If this was a tranie that had never been rebuilt, and had 75K on it, I think replacing the seal all by itself may be a great idea. IF it had been rebuilt, I'd honestly be expecting to find pump shaft and bushing problems, with a seal failure - THAT seems to be epidemic on rebuilds on THIS trannie! If the trannie was original and high mileage, well in that case maybe a look see inside might be an ounce of prevention. Also the drilled drain back seems to me to be a good idea as well. But I admit, I never even gave a moment of thought to the notion that you could do this with the pump IN. (and never have) (DOH!) Thanks Rookie!

ps. Don't have to have pics or anything but it might be a good place to describe the way to do what you did, for ME if for no one else!
 



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I actualy do have some pics. lemme find them and i will post. The time I changed a pump seal it failed causing the torque converter output shaft to get a nice ridge on it. This will obviously chew up a new seal in no time so I would recommend a torque converter. Or atleast a through inspection of the old one.
 






BTW thanks for the hardly a rookie comment. I am the rookie at the shop I work at (well did untill I just got transfered :( ) Because One of the guys I worked with has 25 years experience and is nothing short of amazing with a wrench. The other tech (there were 3 of us) Taught the guy with 25 years. He has been a tech for 40 plus years. Both guys are some of the best I have ever seen.
 






sounds like, from THAT environment,you may have a LOT to teach US!!!
 






I pulled the transmission and inspected it. Everything looks good, the machined input shaft looks good, the T/C doesn't appear to be leaking, the flex pate is not missing any teeth or cracked; The truck has 84k on the ticker and ran excellent,except for the tranny leak, till the day i began working on it.

B/c my lack of experience with Automatics I decided to take it to a well known tranny shop(locally owned for 50years, not some nationwide cottonman) and have them put their 2cents into it and seal it back up for me.

currently it's at the shop..Friday March 12.

Also very good advice on this board!
 






Dont forget to inspect the shaft on the TQ if you are goibng to reuse it
 






I pulled my motor for a rebuild; since I had it out I decided to replace that seal. I was pumping ATF out above 2500 RPM.


I used a curved seal puller and carefully tapped in the new seal. IMO this is a short term fix. I wanted a few more years out of the trans so I could space out major expenses.


When I do a rebuild (myself) I will do the "bulletproof" rebuild.
 






I was wondering if someone could explain what the function of the drain back hole is(in the bellhousing right next to the input shaft seal). I see that people like to drill out this hole out, but im just courious as to why people do this. in my thoughts...you dont want any fluid leaking out of that hole. thank you.
 






That seal is NOT supposed to have any pressure on it. If it leaks, it is because the internal bushings are worn, probably because of alignment. In a perfect world, those bushings wouldn't leak. Since they do and will, increasing the hole size relieves pressure on the seal. Who cares if it leaks a lot internally as long as it still runs.
 






What kind of torch/gas was used to heat up the manifold flange?
 






Acetylene and Oxygen torch.

**Caution**
There are electrical wires, brake lines, and a gas line that are a potential problem when using this type of torch. Make sure to cover these items with sheet metal or an old license plate to deflect the heat away from these items(you have to use your judgement on this if you are comfortable doing it this way or not). This was probably not the easiest way to do this, but none the less my dad and I tried and we succeeded.


ill be happy to answer any more Q's :)
 






The torch is the easiest way to do it. I use that technique daily on stuff like this. Use caution with the things around the area you are torching in but I think shielding is excessive if you are competant.
 






i agree with rookie, but i was just taking caution b.c i'm a safety junky and was working around a gas line :)
 












Got transmission back and it appeared to be a small hairline crack in the torque converter. He replaced the bushing and seal for 60$ and i got a rebuilt T/C for 120$.

Got it home and spent 8 hrs putting the darn transmission and transfer case in and took it for a 10mile ride and its looking pretty good. there is a tiny leak from the transfer case gasket not sealing right, but I dont really care; ill keep my eye on it. I'm just happy the car runs! Oh yea i dont think ill ever drop the tranny again, just one big pain in the nuts, lol!

Thank you for helping me understand a little more about my truck 4x4central!
 






The transfer case isnt hard to pull. Why not pull it and seal it up propperly. Low fluid lever will be the demise of a perfectly good tranny
 






yea you are 100% correct.....but i was just so fatigued at the time, i didnt want to crawl on my back again to work on it. i'll let the truck sit for a couple of weeks and then head back in there with a new attitude and get some gasket sealer around the transfer case. :)
 






I have a bad 4R55E trans that lost reverse, it also had upshift problems probably blownout valvebody gasket? I have another trans that is good but came with no torque converter, should I buy a new one or can I use the one I have, providing I dump old fluid which I plan on, any help would be appreciated.
 






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