Transfer Case Motor Fix! | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Transfer Case Motor Fix!

Wucko

Member
Joined
July 6, 2000
Messages
23
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0
City, State
Tulsa, OK
Year, Model & Trim Level
1992 Explorer Sport
I finally got the thing fixed!

I was having the standard "push the 4x4 button, get the clicks and nothing else". I followed the advice from Dr. Bob...removing the transfer case motor, cleaning up the limit switch contacts and the armature, replacing the rubber around the limit switch stop...all to no avail. I then spoke to a local mechanic from a 4x4 specialty shop. He informed me that on some Explorers (about 1 out of 10 he estimated) when the transfer case motor is fully tightened to the transfer case is does not operate. He did not know why or how...it just happens. The fix he suggested is to put about a 0.050" to 0.060 gasket between the motor and the transfer case. I cut a gasket out a piece of rubber and am not even sure how thick it is...looks like about 1/16". It fixed the problem. Total cost about $0.50!
 



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What if the motor doesnt work and you get no clicks. I did the diagnostic on the module in the rear and the LED indicates the motor is not working...


Oh, congrats on the fix! Hopefully I can get mine done before it snows.
 






I took my truck to our mechanic today because I was having the same problem. I need a new transfercase motor which he said with parts and labor would be $600+. I'm gonna have to do what you did and try cleaning it. Glad to hear you got everything working.

Steve
 






Motor

CLEAN IT, it is time and pain but you can save 600$. I had to do mine twice before getting it correct, at -20 the second time I WANTED it to work. It did turned fine, I cleaned the rotor and brushes, yet I had another problem, the disc that detect the position was loose. I opened up the grey plastic (not without breaking the siding of it, but to save 600$ what would you not do) and glued back the $%?& thing into place with Locktight instant glue, then glued back the sensor assy together and tada. Even if you break it good (like I did, had to drill new holes for the screws retaining the sensor thing), it is worth a try, have in mind that you can save 600$$$$. Good luck
 






What should I clean it with?
 






Cleaning...

For the position disk, contact cleaner is fine. For the rotor and brushes, try emery paper or sanding paper with 600 grain or more(very fine it must be), sand it till it get shining(not very much should be needed) and then contact cleaner could help(I just blow the dust of and put back together since it's gone get dirty again anyhow).
 






Well I just got back from the mechanic. He told me that when the removed the motor they thought a good cleaning would help. Well it didn't. They got the motor to move a little once it was removed but they bascially told me the motor is just burnt out and needs replaced. Anybody know how hard it would be to just replace the motor myself? And how much would it be for a new motor?

Steve
 






Motor...

I is not very hard, 4 screws on the T-case and 1 big connector to plug. There is a brown wire that is built-in the t-case, maybe you will have to cut and splice, but other than that it is stait forward. Buy motor, fix to t-case, plug connector(and brown wire) and it's done, try-it and go 4x4. For the price up here in Canada it's about 400$ for a new one, and 100$ for one at scrap ward(there is a risk it does the same).
 






A tip for cleaning motors

I spent 4 months in a shop rebuilding electric motors during my apprenticeship, and one of the first things I was told is do not use emery cloth to clean the commutator bars. Emery is a form of aluminum oxide, and has the potential of shorting out adjacent bars if not cleaned out thoroughly. Sandpaper works fine, however.
 






Triton46--

I did the test on the module and it also indicated that the motor was the problem. Try getting the motor to operate when it is not attached to the Transfer case. Or just loosen the three mounting bolt surrounding the limit switch housing and try the motor. If it indexes you have the same problem that I had...just install a gasket or shim.
 






easy cleaner

a very easy way to clean the contacts is with a pencil eraser! just rub gently until they start to shine, then whipe clean with a clean cloth!
 






Has anyone found whether or not you have to cut the brown wire? I thought someone said there is a way to remove it without cutting. Is it part of the harness connected to the right of the motor on the transfer case?

I was going to do this today but have to wait until tomorrow so I can buy the security star driver.
 






I think that I am having the same troubles with my 4x4. In my case however the 4x4 will work occasionally. Could this indicate one of the problems over another. My initial reaction was that the problem was related to the actual switch on the dash. However I suppose that it might be possible the electric shift motor on the T case could be sticking? Anyone have any ideas of what it would be? I am going to try to do the whole tester thing in the back with the button and the two wire harnesses. I really hope that this isnt' going to be a huge hassle to figure this out.
 






I must be retarded

I've taken my motor off several times, since reading Dr.Bob's steps to repair. When I worked at Uhaul, I took some spare time to pull my truck up onto the big ramps, and take my motor off. I cut the brown wire that goes to the transfer case. After a decent cleaning job(it was mighty dirty) I put it back on. I used Uhaul wire connectors(in case I needed to disconnect it again). Not surprisingly, it still didn't work. Now that I think, and look back at my truck, I never reconnected that brown wire.

My question; What does that wire do?

Follow Up to previous question; How retarded am I for neglecting to reconnect it?
 






Do you still have the Explorer? Try reconnecting and see what happens...

I'm still wondering if it is necessary to cut it or is there another way around it. I heard of someone working under the car to avoid cutting it but I would like to avoid this as well.

Oh and to answer your other question...retarded is as retarded does. I have a story, but won't share it here...you guys might think less of me. :D
 






I believe that I also read something about not cutting the brown wire. I think it was on the Dr. Bob web site. Look through the older threads and find the hot link to the Dr. Bob site it is in the Transfer Case section.
 






we at the dealership never cut wires you just need a small pic tool to pull the small tabs back inside the connector after removeing the red cover
 






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