Transfer case out/ can I still drive it?

[fosgate]

Ok so about a month ago the power drill sound started when I let off the gas and I can feel the vibration in either the gas petal or floorboard. Here is the thing, I have 32' Cooper Discoverer SST tires with only 3/32 of tread left. Yeah I know this may be the original problem but now I do not hear or feel any difference as I rotate the selector switch fro auto to 4high or 4 low. Underside, the transfer case is wet and I was a quart low. Thing is by the time I throw new tires, brakes, shocks that it needs, if I throw money at a transfer case the total bill is just unacceptable to me. If I could just throw tires, brake pads and shocks I would be ok. But I don't want to put anything more in it. So my question is this. Can I continue to drive this with the transfer case as is or will it eventually seize up the whole driveline or cause further damage to prevent vehicle operation? Do I need to do anything to try like brown wire mod or something else to keep it 2 wheel drive? I don't even know if the transfer case motor is responsive. It's a 98 sport by the way. I would like to make it last a couple more years.

 

[SoNic67]

You are fine, the 4x4 is actually driven in 2WD some 99.9% of the time, is not like the AWD.

 

[drdoom]

I wouldn't put new tires on. Soon you will lose high range engagement, only way to move then is in low range. And if you have no low range? Start walking or cell phone.

 

[drdoom]

Let me try to explain the BW4405 like this: Range selection is controlled by dash switch>shift encoder (motor). 4x4 clutch pack is engaged via electromagnet, commanded by sensors>computer while in AUTO, dash switch for 4x4 high & low. Now pay attention here, the entire drive line is bridged by the range collar (slaved by encoder) and it has a neutral between high and low. The range collar in effect disconnects the straight drive line to the rear wheels, and this is where a major difference between AWD 4404 and the 4x4 4405, the 4404 has no neutral, it's main shaft is straight through the case, an unbroken path. You can do all sorts of hack jobs to a 4404 and still have locomotion. But back to the 4405, the drilling you hear is the range collar on the edge of neutral. Once it pops, you have nothing, your parking pawl will do nothing except grind when you shift to PARK. If you can get it in 4low, that puts the low range reduction planetary in gear. It won't pop out of there BTW.

 

[fosgate]

So who's right? Yes I can keep driving it or no it will eventually implode, disabling the vehicle? Can a few more chime in with a definitive answer? I would prefer not having to stick any money into it if I do not have to. The light changes from 4 high to 4 low but I hear and feel nothing different so I don't think putting it in 4 low is an option. Not that I could drive it for a year in 4 low anyway. Aside from theory is there any advise on what to do or at least options?

 

[fosgate]

So even if I clip the brown wire on the harness it would do nothing? Is that correct?

 

[fosgate]

I think I might have just caught a break. On the way home I pulled over into a parking lot and it shifted into 4Low no problem. I look back and over the 10 years I have owned it, I had to put it in 4 low maybe once or twice and recall it didn't go in easy back then either. Ok, so 4x4 still works and now I am back to thinking maybe if I replace those balding tires I will be ok. Am I wrong in that thinking?

 

[Kiliona]

Ok so about a month ago the power drill sound started

now I am back to thinking maybe if I replace those balding tires I will be ok. Am I wrong in that thinking?

The "power drill sound" probably did not just fix itself, and I've never heard of tires making whatever sound that is, so I'd say it probably needs more than just tires. especially since it's so hard to get it to shift.

IDK these transfer cases well, but drdoom seems to, I would listen to him if I were you and it sounds like your t case is probably on the way out (according to him) which will leave you with either nothing, or four low. As you previously said driving in four low jsut simply won't do.

Have you thought of getting a "new" t-case from a junkyard? I hear they're pretty cheap.

Good luck!

 

[fosgate]

Yeah, I found 4x4 (part time electric shift) part #ID XL24-7A195-AA and they also have ID F77A-7A195-GA transfer case assembly for $350 each. So not horrible. Problem is I do not have the tools or facilities to swap it and most places here will not do the labor if you bring the part service.

Here is the thread that I found that sounds the same as mine. http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=290215

And the modification itself. http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=149388

 

[drdoom]

Fosgate you are correct, mismatched tires are the very first thing to check. There is a way to do it on the ground but I can't recall the name. As you know your ControlTrac system is very sensitive to tire circumference. Many Explorers have had to have all four tires replaced. This is why folks in the know rotate frequently using the correct rotation patterns. So, sorry for the gibberish, first check tires. Next, best thing is to open and rebuild it, as you likely have wear + tolerance stacking starting with the worn shift fork pads>worn shift cam>ovalling of the case half bores. If you can fix all that, or purchase a reman, or purchase a salvage with likely as many miles as yours. They are pretty easy to swap out. There is a fantastic t-case rebuild thread in the transmission sub-forum with pictures, part numbers, and instructions. Look at those pictures you will see.

 

[drdoom]

Let me tell you it takes a few hours to go 70 miles in 4LOW! I know this!

 

[drdoom]

I tried cheap repairs on my own t-case, first I just replaced the pads (and of course the range collar, because the drilling chews those up, they are actually annealed to be sacrificed just like that, which saves the main shaft). That lasted 11K miles. Next time I added the SONNAX roller kit. That build lasted 40K or so. So finally I quit being cheap and replaced the cam, bearings, and had the machinist sleeve the shift rail bores. Hopefully that will run another 60K. Best wishes.

 

[fosgate]

Ok so I just went outside and first pulled the transfer case relay in slot #6 under the hood, then realized that runs to the starter, then I pulled the drive train relay in slot #6 ...and found that wont let other major things run either. So I stuffed them back and pulled fuse in slot #26 from inside the cabin that also runs the dome lights, power windows, battery save but it disabled the 4x4 switch and the 4hi and 4 low flashed on the dash and it would not shift into 4 low or make any sound confirming it was not switching. Now I don't know if this is correct for certain but I assume this is similar to cutting the brown wire. I drove it around the block and the noise is still there. I assume with this that it would not matter if tires would be replaced but it would still be there. So I'm thinking transfer case. Is there any other possibility? wheel bearing, hub assy, front differential (It was half a quart low but no shavings on the magnet)? I should mention in October I had the rear differential serviced as the seal on the yolk was leaking so I had both front and back seals replaced and maybe 1000 miles later this starts to happen.

 

[fosgate]

Well in this state when it rains it freakin blizzards. Just died on my out of town and won't refire. Tow truck is on the way. Towing to dealership. Probably wind up getting something new. Man I hate payments.

 

[fosgate]

Wow! That escalated quickly! Glad I buy a transfer case and tires. No compression in the first cylinder checked. Cheapest motor $2700 not including install. Looks like I'm shopping for a new vehicle. I guess she just went as far as she could. Not bad for a vehicle that I wrote a $3k check out for 10 years ago and only had to put in a $16 pulley, Tires, couple sets of brakes pads, gas and oil for 10 years and 100,000 miles. Actually the most reliable vehicle ever for me topping my 01 Lincoln LS and 05 F150 that were bought new.

 

[Flash]

Let me tell you it takes a few hours to go 70 miles in 4LOW! I know this!

Ever driven an old Land Rover? Even in high range.

 

[Flash]

Wow! That escalated quickly! Glad I buy a transfer case and tires. No compression in the first cylinder checked. Cheapest motor $2700 not including install. Looks like I'm shopping for a new vehicle. I guess she just went as far as she could. Not bad for a vehicle that I wrote a $3k check out for 10 years ago and only had to put in a $16 pulley, Tires, couple sets of brakes pads, gas and oil for 10 years and 100,000 miles. Actually the most reliable vehicle ever for me topping my 01 Lincoln LS and 05 F150 that were bought new.

Dodged a bullet there! How pissed would you be if you paid for the transfer case only to have the engine pack up and go?

I bought my Ltd for $850 included what it cost to tow it home, spent about $1100 getting it right.
It's a great car.