Transmission Help Please!!!!!

[CDW6212R]

A4LD transmissions...

LAURI, may I comment? How much do you need the truck until you sell it?

If you do not need to use it for many more thousands of miles, then sell it as it is. I have a 1991 XLT 4x4 for sale also, and the value is low enough that the expense could be more trouble than just selling it.

If you need it for quite a while more, than you need to be very careful with how you operate it until you know that it is fixed. These transmissions are decendants of a Thunderbird four cylinder application. Most transmission shops hate them because they often times burn up hundreds of dollars of hard parts. Some shops won't touch them because of the higher risk of expensive future failures.

If they wear out and are rebuilt before they burn up parts which don't usually have to be replaced, than they can last another lifetime. But if more damage is allowed to occur, they might fail repeatedly, and at double the normal cost.

I am a Rural Carrier, and my mail vehicle is a 1993 Explorer Limited 4x4. I hope to upgrade to a later model chassis with a five speed transmission.
I have a coworker who used an Explorer also with the A4LD. His transmission failed and he paid close to $1500 to have it rebuilt. It failed again a short time later, and the transmission shop rebuilt it again. It failed again not long after that, and he took it elsewhere, and paid $1800 to fix it again.
He quit delivering mail with it soon afterwards, and sold it.

Several people have given you good advice. Please don't try to force it to function(be gentle) until you have found and fixed the problem. The potential expense of replacing hundreds of dollars of hard parts should be your greatest fear. Once a transmission burns up(damaged non normal wear parts(hard parts)), they are much more likely to burn up again.

SOLUTION: Have the computer code checked in the hopes of pointing you to a problem that you can fix. Go to a transmission parts store, and buy a manual for the transmission. It should be less than $15. Also buy a kit made by TransGo, which I used in both of my Explorers. Ask at the parts store, it was called something like "A4LD JR." This kit is for preventative mainenance.
Read the manual and pull the valve body carefully, noting the different size of bolts, and the attaching parts. Install the kit, and any solenoids that need help. Look VERY carefully for any debris, including sediment, no matter how small. Any debris suggests that there could be debris anywhere else, including passages which could cause failures if restricted. Last, always drain the torque converter when changing fluid. This is about all that can be done without removing the transmission.
As a last suggestion for a preventative measure, ask a transmission parts or repair shop for a longer pin for the modulator valve. There is a pin behind the valve on the side of the transmission which affects the 1-2 shift. Pull the vacuum line from the valve, then remove the valve, then the pin. A pin longer by about 1/8" will firm up the 1-2 shift slightly. The pin that I used was given to me by a shop, for some kind of older chrysler transmission. It was simply a very common part that was longer, and I cut it 1/8" longer than the stock pin. My 1991 Explorer was slipping slightly going into 2nd, and these parts helped it greatly.

I know this is long, but I hope this will help anyone with this barely adequate transmission. If your's is not terminal, these ideas may help. Once they start to slip, or quit, don't drive them. Additional driving will add hundreds of dollars to the repairs($500+).

Again, good luck,
CDW

 

[CDW6212R]

LAURI, sorry that I missed the "borrowing" part. Assuming you can speak to the owner of the truck when it first had transmission troubles, find out how much damage was done the first time. If it was rebuilt with just a rebuild kit, it may be worth saving. If it had to have other hard parts replaced(burned up), then it may have failed because of the original failure. If you suspect this, then I would suggest that the transmission be replaced, or sell the truck. Good luck,
DW

 

[Brain]

CDW, I agree completely about the hard parts and being tender with it once you realize something is wrong. I went to a Ford stealership to get a diagnosis when my A4LD started to go and they said they pulled the computer codes and that it was indicating slipping and that I needed a replacement...what a waste of $75. I could have accomplished the same thing in my driveway doing a stall test for $0 and about 10 minutes. There is no reason to pull codes in this situation because it isn't a 3-4 problem or a torque converter clutch lockup problem. As for the longer pin on the modulator, they have adjustable modulators now where you can effectively accomplish the same thing (changing shift points) without changing the original pin. One of the problems with the Explorer is that once contamination occurs, it goes all over the place. The radiator (it has a heat exchanger in it), plate cooler, lines....And the torque converters used in the 4.0L versions of the A4LD don't have drain plugs, so you can't drain the things completely to do a complete fluid flush. Contamination issues are the subject of several Tech Bulletins:
http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/A...56351048/34853741/34850750/42063452/101829619

http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/A.../34853741/34850750/42063452/42537118/56379618

http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/A.../34850750/42063452/42537118/42537122/42537125

Well, you all see the point - the fluid is hard to really change completely.

 

[LAURI]

Well, I hope I look good bald because I am pulling my hair out! I replaced the fried 3-4 solenoid (originally thought it was the tcc), replaced gaskets, replaced fluid and filter, cleaned everything out and actually drove it all day doing errands! I stopped to get mail around the corner from home and once again, NO FORWARD GEARS so I drove in reverse all the way home. This truck is possessed! Any ideas?

 

[audiodude332001]

I say rebuild the whole stupid tranny. These trannys are pieces of crap. Iv had mine out of my 92 3 times in the last 6 months.

 

[LAURI]

I just need another month out of it! I also just found out that my husband didnt drain the torque converter like I asked (apparently he knows it all) and Brain is probably on the right track about the contamination of old fluid. As soon as it cools down, I am going to check the new filter to see how bad it looks and narrow it down from there. I feel like we are on the right track but I can't spend the next month worrying every time I drive it. Brain and Glacier, what's your opinion? Thanks so much! Lauri

 

[Glacier991]

I wanna know fluid level. in park, engine running.... before you pull anything off. And if it says full...and won't move.... I am gonna ask you to put a pint in and try it.... regardless. Please let me know. It's not likely mechanical... it is control pressure related. let's start with the easy stuff first

 

[Glacier991]

ps. You CANNOT drain the TC.

 

[LAURI]

Glacier,
I guess I am not understanding the advice of others on the board when it comes to getting the most atf out. Running, the fluid looks about a quart over what it should be. Should I still add more?

 

[CDW6212R]

Glacier991, I can't remember if I was able to drain my torque converters four years ago. I always look for a plug, and drain it if possible.

LAURI, how much was replaced when it was rebuilt the first time? Normal parts are only about $150. High mileage or contamination would require replacing the torque converter. The other hard parts inside could typically be $400-$700.

If the Explorer drove "normally" since the recent failure, then it is probably worth fixing. Once you fix the problem, afterwards make sure that as much of the fluid is as clean as possible. Replace the filter anytime that more "material" is found in the fluid.

If a transmission is "burned up", then the debri could possibly never be completely removed.

Also, be sure to change the transaxle fluid. My trusted Ford Shop Foreman first told me to change that as well in a bought 4WD.

The kit that I mentioned is not a "Shift Kit", it is a systems correction kit designed to correct inherent problems. At less than 25-30$, its cheap insurance. The pin doesn't move the shifts, it slightly firms the 1-2 shift(Most important shift).
Best wishes,
DW

 

[Glacier991]

if running it it shows "overfull" then I doubt lack of fluid is the problem. (though FORD dd have an A4LD "badly marked stick" thing briefly) Did you get the O-rings on the filter properly? I am thinking more and more this is a fluid pressure thing.... trying to figure out why you lack pressure.... and had it earlier...If you may tear into it again (e.g drop the pan and get the bath), add 16 more OZ of fluid... contrary to popular belief that won't hurt anything really (nor blow seals)....try that and let me know.... OH, and while ou are at it, pull the vacuum line to the vacuum moduator and see if there is trannie fuid in it....just for me.

 

[LAURI]

Added more fluid and still nothing. What does this "pressure" that you are talking about involve? Seems odd to me that I had no initial symptoms then lost forward gears. Changed items above and it ran, once again with no symptoms and lost gears again. Glacier, ya know, Phoenix is just a hop skip and jump from Sacramento! LOL! I appreciate all of your knowledge more than you will ever know!

 

[Glacier991]

Lauri...that is the key here....let's talk about pressure a minute....most of what happens in the transmission is dictated by hydraulic pressure created initially by the pump and then making various parts do various things (like the forward clutch engaging - which Is YOUR problem I think). by various actions in the valve body. The pump sits in front of the trannie and is driven by the torque convertor. Your once low, now "overfull" condition suggests to me a pump not running (which is why I asked about how you tested it) or more likely not picking up the fluid (clogged filter), or there is a clog/plug in the valve body, or a badly installed filter (which the fact you HAD forward today belies). [By the way there is a port for plugging in and measuring pump control pressure...]

Let's ask....So WHY would what you did fix that? If temporarily? The 3/4 solenoid has nothing to do with it. The gaskets COULD. did the valve body get hot and only needs retightening? (low probability). If you replaced the filter, [reread you said you did] did the filter once again get clogged? Did you clean anything in the valve body? If so could it have become replugged? Is the filter [repeat] once again plugged? (high possible)... or.... or...

(lest I forget.... "glittery" fluid is a BAD sign.... the only reason we are here is to get you a month.. "glittery" fluid means something BAD is happening inside).

I am a little stumped. If you could get it going in a forward gear, I'd have it "flushed" and add a new filter (again!) and retorque the valve body bolts again!... .

Other may have better ideas. Where is Operahouse when you need him? (he's a great diagnostician on A4LD's)

AND,in defense of the A4LD, it is not a bad trannie, just not friendly to "cheap" rebuilds. Those who have gone thru several need to find a "new" quality rebuilder. The more I learn aboutthe A4LD the less respect I have for many rebuilders.

 

[Brain]

"AND,in defense of the A4LD, it is not a bad trannie, just not friendly to "cheap" rebuilds. Those who have gone thru several need to find a "new" quality rebuilder. The more I learn aboutthe A4LD the less respect I have for many rebuilders."

AMEN BROTHER!!!

LAURI - Try this when the tranny is together (it's called a stall test):
1)Start engine in P
2)Make sure you are NOT in 4WD or LOW RANGE
3)Apply the emergency brake
4)Pump brakes a couple of times and then hold it (to make sure you have a firm brake)
5)Shift into manual 1st (the 1 on the shifter)
6)Gun the engine (pedal to the floor - no more than 5 seconds)
7)If the tachometer reads above 3165 RPM GET OFF THE GAS!!!
8)Otherwise the engine should max out somewhere between 2720 RPM and 3165 RPM (using the dash tachometer is good enough for these diagnostics)
9)Make note of the stall speed (in RPM - close is good enough, and if it is above 3200, don't try to get a value - just say higher than specification)
10)Shift into Neutral for at least a minute to cool down the torque converter.
11)Proceed to shift into manual 2 (2 on the shifter)
12)Repeat steps 6 though 10 for the shifter in 2nd, Drive, and Overdrive
13)Let us know the results

This test will help us determine what is failing and if it can even last a month without costing more in the end than a rental car (I figure that a month at $30/day is $900 - so let's not blow up $1200 in parts for you to use it for a month).

Glitter is bad - it means that something is wearing that shouldn't be...

If we still can't figure out the problem, you might have to use a pressure guage to figure out the problem (I've included the link below to tell how it is done and what the value of doing it is). But before you go that far, do the stall test first.
http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/A.../56351048/34853741/34850750/42063452/42468764

 

[LAURI]

Brain,
Okay, I did it. All gears read above 3165. 2nd actually bucked forward at high rpm's. This is really bad isn't it? If you tell me that it needs to be rebuilt, what is your opinion on getting a tranny from the junkyard just to get by? A friend mentioned this to me and honestly, I am looking to spend the least amount of money possible. Thanks so much! Lauri

 

[LAURI]

The more I think about (the bigger headache I get) I wonder if my problem last week could be related. Keep in mind that these problems seem to occur after freeway driving and the vehicle is quite warm.
Driving on the freeway, the rpm's seemed erratic. I got off the freeway and stopped at a stoplight. At take off, there was no takeoff, just revving up. I finally got it to shift into gear enough to get around the corner to home. Next morning, no start. I replaced the ecc but it ended up being the ecc relay as it kept blowing fuses. Ran for a few days then this starting happening. Related? Could be grasping at straws or maybe someone has had similar problems? Thanks!

 

[Brain]

Even Reverse??? I thought you had power in reverse?

 

[LAURI]

Oh, I didn't check reverse originally. I just checked and it reads about 2500. Good news please!

 

[Brain]

Forward clutch or the rear one-way clutch is what that points to....except maybe if the shift linkage is a liitle off - that can cause slipping or a delayed engagement. The shifter on the steering column connects through a cable to the shifter on the drivers side of the transmission. The cable is attached through a plastic female ball, steel male ball connection. Pry that plastic connector off of the ball shaped head (this disconnects the cable from the shifter. Then put the e-brake on (better yet, have somebody apply the brakes and the e-brake), start the motor, and shift it manually at the transmission by hand (you will be able to feel the clicks - same pattern as the steering column - maybe have somebody shift through the gears while you are watching to familiarize yourself on which direction to go when doing it manually).

This makes sure the cable and column detents are not keeping the transmission from going into gear all the way. If you have power when shifting it manually (try the stall test again perhaps - with you not underneath in case of lurching), then the cable adjustment is the problem, if not, then there is a problem (the forward clutch or the rear one-way clutch) that won't be really easy to fix, but the parts aren't that expensive.

I don't know how many tools you have available to pull the tranny (jacks, stands, etc.) so I can't really comment on how tough it would be for you. You sound pretty capable and motivated, so let us know.

 

[LAURI]

Brain,
Do you really think the linkage would cause an intermittent problem? Alright, forward clutch. What kind of price and what is involved? I can probably round up the tools, stand etc. What kind of time would you expect this to take for a novice? Are you coming to Phoenix anytime soon? LOL?