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Transmission issues, reflash didnt work

panteramatt

Well-Known Member
Joined
February 28, 2003
Messages
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City, State
south jersey
Year, Model & Trim Level
07 Mountaineer V8
Well I took my wifes 06 mountaineer in cause the transmsission has never shifted right. Well they told me they did the newest reflash and that a coil was bad. I replaced the coil and the shifting is WAY worse! Her warrenty is up soon. I tried to pass someone the other day and it acted like it was in nuetral then slammed into gear and chirped the tires. If we were on wet roads it would of been bad. What should I tell the dealer. I need it fixed this time as her warrenty will be up soon and this is the third time its been in there for this. Also, the warrenty didnt cover the reflash and I thought it should, cost $250!
 



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Price was too high, even in the high cost coastal area of California it's about $150.

Reflash mainly helps eliminates the 2-1 speed bump.
 






Well Im taking it back there this friday and want my $ refunded for the reflash as it only got worse.
 






If you got it reflashed under warranty it should be covered since there's a TSB for it.
 






Well Im taking it back there this friday and want my $ refunded for the reflash as it only got worse.

What was the result of the Friday visit?
 






Another coil bad! Whatever!
 






I see (coil must of caused driveability problems), not tranny.
 






Its bs im sure!
 






Have you not gotten it back yet?
 






Yes but I havent replaced the coil yet.
 






Make sure there's no moisture in the coil area first. That may not be the problem but it happened to me after it rained like crazy once.
 






Sorry, but Damn...$250 for a reflash is insane. Even out of warranty my dealership only charged me like $65 - I think it was like one labor hour, since all they do is plug in a scan tool for two minutes and it is done..
To get back to the issue, I went through the same thing. I swore that it was the transmission, but in the end it did turn out to be 2 coils. The real issue is that the diagnostics between the PCM/coils doesn't work correctly either, so in some cases the computer doesn't tell the techs that coils (or all of the bad coils) are bad, so they really have to look deeper into the actual performance of each coil to determine if they need to be replaced.
 






Mine had a similar issue last year and it ended up actually being the throttle position sensor. Code never came up saying that, but it was suggested it could be the issue so I replaced it and it drove so much better.
 






Mine had a similar issue last year and it ended up actually being the throttle position sensor. Code never came up saying that, but it was suggested it could be the issue so I replaced it and it drove so much better.

How did you figure that out, how much did it cost you, and did you replace it yourself?
 






I actually figured out from people posting on here. Someone suggested replacing the throttle position sensor to fix the rough shifting. I looked up the part and I think at the time it was somewhere in the $50 range online and replaced it. It was fairly easy to do, just need to use caution to not snap the screws. (comes with directions saying to heat up the screws to soften to the lock-tite)
 






I actually figured out from people posting on here. Someone suggested replacing the throttle position sensor to fix the rough shifting. I looked up the part and I think at the time it was somewhere in the $50 range online and replaced it. It was fairly easy to do, just need to use caution to not snap the screws. (comes with directions saying to heat up the screws to soften to the lock-tite)

Ok, thanks. I might try that.
 






I actually figured out from people posting on here. Someone suggested replacing the throttle position sensor to fix the rough shifting. I looked up the part and I think at the time it was somewhere in the $50 range online and replaced it. It was fairly easy to do, just need to use caution to not snap the screws. (comes with directions saying to heat up the screws to soften to the lock-tite)

Did you use a heat gun to heat it up? I don't have one...do you think a hair dryer would be sufficient?
 






I can't see why a hair dryer wouldn't work, might just take a little longer. I'd try turning the screw like you're tightening it briefly before you try to unscrew it too, sometimes that helps break the lock.
 






I ended up getting it installed without a problem, but it didn't fix the bump. I feel like the only options I have now are going to cost me a boat load of money, and so it's probably not worth it. Oh well...
 



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