Transmission won't shift

[Rebus Knebus]

Hello group!

I have a '94 EX with 153K on it. Friday morning, I started it up to go to the store and it would not shift from 1st to 2nd. It had been working okay up to that point.

To make a long story short, I can "manually" shift it from 1st to 2nd and then from 2nd to the OD position. From there, it will shift into 3rd and then into overdrive okay (but kind of clunky). If I move it to Drive, it will not shift util it seems like I'm about to throw a rod. If I am not going fast enough on the 2nd to OD shift, it will downshift to 1st.

Does anyone have any ideas?

Am I going to blow it up driving it this way until I get it fixed?

Again, thanks to ALL on the Serious Explorations website!!!

Rebus

 

[B94Sport]

Are you sure it is shifting into 2nd and 3rd? I had a problem similar to what you are describing and I thought mine was shifting through the gears but really it would go from 1st to 4th then lock/unlock (whichever lowers RPMs) the torque converter... I had a broken intermediate band that needed replaced. I drove it for about 6,000 miles like the before getting a rebuild.

 

[Rebus Knebus]

Yes, it's shifting. I can tell from the tachometer...

 

[Opera House]

If you have good manual operation in 1 & 2

Then I would suspect the speed governor is sticking. Vacuum modulator can cause late 1 to 2 and 2 to 3 shifts. So is this just late or it will never shift at all? Have you checked the kickdown cable from the gas pedal?

 

[Diff Whack Daddy]

Explorer tranny's don't have a throttle valve(TV) cable. That is a Chevy thing. I had the exact same problem and it turned out to be the govenor valve located in the tail shaft housing. It was fairly easy to replace, the only difficult part is the PARK lever aasembly that is part of the tailshaft housing.

 

[Glacier991]

My money is on the governor too. Here's a helpful link:
Dead Link Removed

Happy exploring...

Chris

 

[Rebus Knebus]

A few more questions, please...

First, a huge thanks to all of the Explorers on this board, with a special nod to B94Sport, Diff Whack Daddy, Glacier991, and Opera House. After reading all of the posts, especially those great dissertations from Opera House, I’ve decided to try this fix myself.

To recap, my eX will not shift from 1st to 2nd on its own but I can manually start in 1st, shift to 2nd and then to OverDrive, where it will shift to 3rd and then OD. If I go from 2nd to Drive, it will not shift to 3rd or OD.

Upon listening to the transmission in a calmer state of mind, I’ve also noticed that there is a definite “clunk” when I put it into reverse so I’ll probably be doing the “low/reverse servo” repair also.

This, of course, begets more questions having to do with which parts to order.

I’ve been looking a bulkpart.com under the A4LD transmission.

Do I need to buy the #23031 overhaul kit just to get the two servo O-rings (double-lip style seals?) or are they sold separately on the web-site? If so, what numbers do I need?

I also want to install the MicroFelt filter but which one is the one I need: #23922 or 23922A?

Should I get both the A4LD Technical Manual and the Update manual?

I also need to correct a probable sticking speed governor. I have a 2WD eX so I am assuming (I know what happens when you assume) that Opera House’s procedure “Speed Governor and Transfer Case Removal” applies to my 2WD except for the transfer case.

What seals/gaskets (from bulkpart.com) are needed to re-install the extension housing?

Should I replace the modulator as long as I’m under there and if so, what are the differences in those at bulkpart.com? No-stripe, olive/silver stripe, etc.

Again, thanks to everyone and especially Opera House!!

 

[Opera House]

23031......It's back!

They had pulled the basic gasket kit when they upgraded the site. Now it is back. 23922 is the Microfelt filter and the best manual to get is the TMA4LD. You can get the O rings from ford but they will just be O rings. Maybe the whole kit is a bit too much but you will get the pan gasket, two filter O rings, extension housing gasket, rear shaft seal Servo cover gasket and and the servo seals. You can ask about individual seals but I don't think partial rebuilds are common.

 

[Rebus Knebus]

Thanks, Opera House...

...I hate to keep picking on you...

I was all set to buy all of the seals-gaskets to make sure that I got what I needed but it's apparently all in the rebuild kit. Thanks for the advice.

Do you recommend a transmission fluid flush or should I leave well enough alone?

Do you prefer a synthetic fluid?

Also, should I change the modulator? I don't think that it's giving me any trouble at this time.

Thanks...again!!

 

[Opera House]

I forgot the modulator

Anything but the turbo. The other two are both adjustable, one is just easier to adjust. Just remember if you adjust it higher up on the torque curve, things could break in an older transmission. If you look where it is you need to be comitted to doing it. Sometimes the base gets stuck and the only way to get it out is to snap the bellows. You may want to wait.

A pan drop changes about 35% of the fluid. Nothing wrong with dropping it every 1,000 miles and getting more sediment out. The gaskets when new can be usd several times. If it is really nasty you may want to do the pump out method. Whatever sediment you find in the pan, there will also be at least that much stuck elsewhere. Stick with standard Mercon at least till it gets clean. Order an extra filter and gasket (69 cent one is fine) because the new one will get dirty in 6 months even if you exchange all the fluid.

 

[Rebus Knebus]

Thanks Again Opera House

Thanks again for all of the info for me and every other transmission virgin here. Your last reply was exactly what I wanted to hear. I was hesitant to change the modulator after finding out where it was at.

Thanks!!!

...and a BIG thanks to Rick for hosting this Explorer Forum!!

 

[Opera House]

And add extra magnets

I put like five in. Gravity and magnets are the best filter.