Turning on subwoofer turns off speakers... remote wire problem. | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Turning on subwoofer turns off speakers... remote wire problem.

Blacksheep Josh

Slinky+Escalator=Fun
Joined
July 31, 2006
Messages
3,659
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City, State
Statesboro, GA
Year, Model & Trim Level
'01 Ford Ranger, RIP 93 X
Installed amp and sub few months ago, worked great.

Originally I just had a power wire from a distribution block near the amp, run to a switch in the front and then to the back. I'm guessing there was to much power going through it because the amp shut itself off. It wasn't until I hooked up the remote wire properly to the rear of the head unit adn replaced the fuse under the hood that it started "working".

Now here's my problem.

I used a quick connector, one of those that you just slide over the wire you need a signal from and close it and it "cuts" into the old wire to give the new wire a signal? Does this make sense?

Anyways, I still have it running through a switch on my dash (so I can turn the system off when cops come close, but now when I turn the switch on, which should turn the amp on, not only will the subwoofer/amp not come on, the speaker output goes as well.

I'm thinking that the power coming through the remote wire isn't enough to signal "turn on" to BOTH amps, and I'm wondering:

Where/what is a safe power source to run the remote wire to? Like can I use a 5amp supply from the fuse box for this that I can just piggy back?

I'm using speaker wire currently from the switch to the amp, should I try a smaller wire or just another power source all together?
 



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i would guess that there is something wrong with the amp if it all the sudden won't come on,
and the fact that the speakers quit when you turn on the sub usually means that there is a dead short in the amp, cutting out the amp turnon , try using a wire right from the battery to the amp,see if it comes on, ,
 






Can't you just run a jumper from the + on the amp to the remote? This would make the amp always on, but could be wired to a switch that was powered with ignition, or just used to test the amp. I don't think the HU is having problems turning on 2 amps. I've ran a single remote to 4 amps before.
 






Are you using the OEM head unit?

The factory Ford 5V remote turn on lead was not enough to trigger an aftermarket amp in my Budget Bass project.
 






Sorry for the lack of responses, I went to sleep about 30 minutes after my first post and just now woke up.


i would guess that there is something wrong with the amp if it all the sudden won't come on,
and the fact that the speakers quit when you turn on the sub usually means that there is a dead short in the amp, cutting out the amp turnon , try using a wire right from the battery to the amp,see if it comes on, ,

Well the subwoofer doesn't come on either. And when the switch is in the off position the speakers play fine like they always have. But sometimes both will come on perfectly.

Can't you just run a jumper from the + on the amp to the remote? This would make the amp always on, but could be wired to a switch that was powered with ignition, or just used to test the amp. I don't think the HU is having problems turning on 2 amps. I've ran a single remote to 4 amps before.

My amplifier has two 8 gauge power inputs, so I ran a 4 gauge wire to the cargo area, and used a distribution block to split it. The distribution block split 1 input into 4 outputs, so I used a free output for my remote wire, just ran it to the front where the switch was and then back to the amp. I used speaker wire for easier installation. Last week the fuse blew under the hood, and when I replaced it and kicked the switch to on nothing. Thought I had blew my amp. Until I touched the remote wire which was burning hot. So I disabled the fuse and killed power to it. That's when I decided to do it right and use the remote wire from the head unit. That's where the problems started.

Are you using the OEM head unit?

The factory Ford 5V remote turn on lead was not enough to trigger an aftermarket amp in my Budget Bass project.

I'm using an aftermarket Sony headunit that I've had since 2005, it's an older CD player but I love it, works great.






When I had my last system back between 2005-2006 I had the same problem, whenever I'd try to use the remote out from this head unit it'd sometimes work adn sometimes not. I'm guessing this head unit remote out wire just doesn't put enough juice to turn them on.

I am planning on getting another radio within the next few months, but I still need this to work in the meantime. How strong of a current does the remote wire put out? 5v? Know the amp level by chance?
 






I've had this problems...HU's remote wire output is only milliamps.

Just use a relay and you can turn on 10000 amps with one switch and wire.
 






How big of a relay should I use?

Can I use power from the fuse box beneath the steering wheel, like if I "tied into" a 5-10 amp circuit? I could put an inline fuse on the remote wire so if it does pull more it'll blow and protect everything?
 






I would just run a fused wire from the battery or the fuse box.

30 amp relays are cheap.

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=330-073

These relays anywhere local are usually between 5-10 dollars for one.

Yeah stores mark the hell up out of these

I would go ahead and buy you a handful. They can be used for anythiny

Even changing a pair of dual 4 ohm subwoofers from 4 ohm final load to 1 ohm final load with the flip of a switch

No need for a fuse on the remote wire that triggers the relay. A relay will only pull a few milliamps to turn on.
 






Sorry for the confusion.

I meant if I didn't use a relay, and just tied into a fuse in the fuse box on a circuit that isn't used often while the sub is on. Like I was thinking the inside lights when the doors are open, if I used power from that circuit to the switch then to the amplifier. Putting like a 5-10 amp inline fuse on the way to the switch.
 






I'd fuse it regardless. If it ever grounds out it will keep the wire from bursting into flames. Much easier to replace a snapped fuse. :)
 






use the red wire on the back of your sony head unit and it will send 12v to the amp to turn it on when you turn the vehicle on.
 






Problem.
I thought car stereos for some reason run off of 14.4 volts when the engine is turning over, wouldn't that overload the amp with to many volts?

Or do they run at 12 even while the engine is going?

I'm confused?

So the amp just needs a 12 volt signal through the remote wire to turn on, what about amperage for that wire? What is to much, what is just enough, and what is a good amount? If I know this I'll just split into an existing fuses power. I'd rather not pull the head unit again if I don't have to.
 






around 12 volts at rest...while the engine is running the voltage must be higher to charge a battery.
 






Car audio is meant to take a full 14.4 volts. It doesn't take much current to turn an amp on, which is why most remote wires are very small.
 






Okay, answers a lot. Guess it makes sense because the amp is connected to the battery, and in turn the alternator. Especially if one has the "Big 3" upgrade. I'm about to go tear into it... I figure I got to replace the pulley belt (problems staying charged, trying belt first then searching for a common ground I've been told that might be failing). Wish me luck! I'll let ya know if I get it.
 






Have you solved this issue? I only ask because it sounds to me like the remote turn on wire you were using from D block to the switch back to the amp was shorted somewhere. Probably pinched somewhere along the line and touching ground or could be touching ground on the switch if you are using an illuminated one.

That would explain why when you power it up the speakers turn off and also why the wire got really hot and eventually popped your fuse. Double check that wire.

As for the remote turn on the sony, be sure you are using that and not a power antenna trigger. Some units have both and they sometimes only trigger on the radio out.
 






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