UCA's on 2003 Explorer -No Go!

[03Explo20]

Well, I attempted to change out the complete upper control arms on the front today and was unsuccessful! I started on the drivers side and had one helluva time getting the bolts to break loose with all the rust and corrosion. I was able to finally get the 18mm bolt on the steering knuckle loosened but could not get the damn ball joint to pop out of the knuckle no matter what the hell I did! I beat the knuckle with a small sledge, used pry bars, jacked up the suspension to relieve down force, I tried it all and nothing worked!

The two 11/32 bolts in the back, I was able to break one free by hand but not able to remove it all the way and the other took my 350 ft lbs of force lug nut gun to break it free! That also was unable to come all the way off!

I wire brushed the threads, sprayed the nuts, everything, to no avail! I finally just gave the hell up and will have to pay someone to do the work! The friggin Pa. winters certainly did a job on these parts! The ball joints are completely rotted away so I'm kind of stuck in having to have this done for inspection.

I'm really disappointed as the instructions and advice given here really made me think this would be an easier repair job than it was. Thank you to all who replied to my previous threads with help and advice!

 

[Number4]

If I lived in the rust belt, I'd pay shops to work on anything affected by road salt.

 

[Ronin8002]

One thing that might help you get the ball joint stud out of the knuckle:

Put your jack under the lower control arm and then jack up the suspension until the upper control arm is just a bit below level. Give the stud a couple of upward hits with a hammer and it should pop right out. Works every time for me. I think it's because the stud gets some side loading when the suspension is at full droop and makes the stud harder to pop out of the knuckle.

 

[Joe in NY]

You should get a ball joint press. Very helpful for this stuff. Also, try living in NY We do all the work on our three cars...

 

[Tyleryac]

Luckily living in North Jersey, I was able to replace my ball joints without issues.

 

[drdoom]

I recall using a c-frame to pop the ball joint stud, and also a Pittman arm puller I have used and a fork as a last resort.

 

[03Explo20]

I tried that also. I went out this morning and tried to do the passenger side but had the same luck. The damn ball joint just will not break free from the knuckle.

I tried the jacking method you mentioned as the angle did appear to be stressing the bolt going through the knuckle on an angle but that didn't help either. I even tried using heat (torch) to try and heat up the knuckle just enough so it would expand and break free. Nope, didn't work either!

I have a feeling this was done prior and someone used lock tight on the threads and studs. The freaking bolts, even sprayed with WD40 Penetrating Oil and wire brushed, will not break free or loosen without a severe struggle! I'm almost afraid to even try again with there not being a whole lot of room to manuever on those side bolts.

I guess I'll just go ahead and pay the labor costs at my local mechanic. I have a feeling those guys will jus6t cut the damn bolts off and change the arms that way!

One thing that might help you get the ball joint stud out of the knuckle:

Put your jack under the lower control arm and then jack up the suspension until the upper control arm is just a bit below level. Give the stud a couple of upward hits with a hammer and it should pop right out. Works every time for me. I think it's because the stud gets some side loading when the suspension is at full droop and makes the stud harder to pop out of the knuckle.

 

[drdoom]

A proper c-frame should do it, or try a larger (19mm or so) open end wrench around stud in rubber boot area, this is a shim and protector for the knuckle, then pound the fork in. Always leave the nut on a bit, the release can be violent.

 

[03Explo20]

drdoom, a "c frame"???? Is this one of those ball joint forks by chance?

 

[drdoom]

Sorry for not being clearer, a c-frame is like a ball joint press with no adapters installed (which I have used too), and by chance it is forked to straddle the ball joint. In terms of force I would rate Pittman arm puller the lowest, then c-frame, and the old standard fork you speak of the most forceful. I had one the c-frame wouldn't pop, but the fork did. To be more exact, first I lay a decent sized open end wrench on top of knuckle, like a fork, then I stack the ball joint fork on top of that, then drive it home. If the rubber boot is in the way, I rip it out. The wrench served to protect the aluminum knuckle, spreading the force over the entire area, and also functioned as a shim, because I only had a slim fork. I can't say this is an acceptable technique, but nothing else worked. The Pittmans they sell at the parts house are very good for a joint that's had anti-seize but are way too cheesy for anything stuck.

 

[03Explo20]

drdoom, appreciate the clarification. As for the fork, is the 11/16" or 15/16" fork the proper size for the Explorer? Or is there another size? I think I'll attempt this one more time using your advice here. I'm not looking forward to having to fork out $200 to have the arms changed at the shop.

 

[drdoom]

03, I can measure it, hang tight...OK it is 15/16" inside dimension, with a shallow taper making it 5/8" thick at the back of the "U". You can get thicker ones that would not require the shim, but with the aluminum I was happier with it in there. You can take an unmounted ball joint and check, I think the 11/16" might fit better. As before I cannot say if it's the right one, but it really kicked ass.

 

[Duranged84]

Just did this couple days ago, I had trouble getting the 2 rear nuts off, but they did eventually come off with half a can of pb blaster, and about a half turn at a time. Retighten a 1/4 turn and spray more, then back it off some more.

As for the fricken ball joint.... leave the nut on a couple turns, then find you a 8-10 lb sledge hammer. One with a good long handle. Then whack the crap out of the control arm from the bottom. It WILL give it up... I tried for probably an hour with my 2.5lb mini sledge but in the end it took a 10 lb with a real handle. Oh, and I would use that method to pop the ball joint before removing the 2 rear nuts. Which also should give you more room and maybe take stress off of them.

 

[03Explo20]

Was FINALLY able to get through this installation yesterday! The ball joint separator tool I purchased was the ticket in getting the upper ball joint to separate from the knuckle. I tried the pickle fork first but it still would not budge! The separator tool was the ticket!

I did the drivers side first and that took maybe two hours due to the limited turning ability on the rusted out back bolts. I was only able to get a small turn on each attempt no matter how much PB Blaster I used. I even had to resort back to some heat from the propane torch to help.

The passenger side took about five hours as one of the back bolts refused to budge and I ended up stripping it all up. I tried to sawz-all that off but that didn't work due to limited room back there. I finally resorted to the Dremel Tool with a cutoff wheel and was able to cut the bolt enough to get a large screwdriver in the slot to open it up. I used Channel Locks to unbolt it the rest of the way.

Problems....

Those darn spacers that are under the back bolts, can they be had anywhere online or is this a dealer only item? Mine were pretty bent up and rusted but I had no choice but to reinstall them. I'd like to purchase some new replacements and change them out.

Also, the ball joint nut sent with the Detroit Axle replacement UCA's have this plastic material inside the bolt. On the drivers side the bolt did not tighten up all the way and basically spins. I ended up putting back on the original bolts underneath the new ones to ensure there was more holding ability just in case. I'm hoping to get a replacement from Detroit Axle but my concern is whether or not I'll be able to get this one that's on there now back off!

This job was a real SOB due to the rust from the Pa. winters! Every friggin muscle in my body hurts today from all that pulling and pushing yesterday! Good luck to anyone else in the rust belt who attempts this repair on his own!