trucku
Explorer Addict
- Joined
- January 25, 2005
- Messages
- 2,011
- Reaction score
- 5
- City, State
- Queens, New York and living in Budd Lake, NJ now.
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 2002 Explorer XLS 4.0 4x4
I finally got around to installing the Underdrive Pulley.
I was planning to do it this summer, but my truck developed a horrid squeal. This occured after I just changed my serpentine belt 3 months ago. Since I have had this truck I have had to change the serpentine belt every year. I knew that something was wrong, but it was not so apparent. I changed my tensioner and idler some time ago when I first experienced the squeal during a winter.
So in the last 2 weeks I changed my serpentine belt. I changed my idler pulley and whole tensioner assembly just in case one was defective. So my truck was quiet for 1 day and then the squeal came back. I ran her without the serpentine and found no noise. I was led into a false discovery when my alternator made some noise. Lucky thing it was still under warranty and I was able to exchange it without incident (Pep Boys). I still had the squeal. I then thought maybe that the water pump pulley was glazed over from the old belt and now is too smooth to allow the new belt to grip. So I took my dremel tool and sanded the pulley and eliminated any shine. Now my squeal got worse. I ran the truck with the AC on also, but I still had this pulsing squeal. Then I finally looked down and saw my Harmonic Balancer wobbling around. I have always seen that my tensioner pulsed back and forth and knew thought that maybe my crank pulley had issues. Seem now it gotten worse enough to wear down the backs of the belts as they slid back and forth on the water pump pulley.
I went out and bought my Harmonic Balancer Puller from Pep Boys.
So my troubles didn't end. I did read here that the 8m bolts that come with the kit is too short. I was unable to find any from the hardware store. I then bought a cam shaft puller kit that had two 8m bolts about 1 inch longer. This proved to be too long and did not allow the puller base to sit firmly onto the crank pulley. To resolve this problem I bought a pack of washers and then added about six to each bolt and that worked fine. Now your tool still has an two issues. One is the bolt is too long and will not fit between the radiator and crank pulley. Lucky thing I bought the cam shaft puller and its bolt was much shorter and fit right into the pullers base. The second issue is that this bolt/screw does not seat into the crack shaft to allow the pulley to be pushed out. I figured this out while using a small mirror and flashlight to gain a viewing advantage into the pulley. I used the installer bolt that came with my ASP Underdrive Pulley. I threaded it in about half an was left then I was able to use the pulley remover. I threaded it in that far to avoid the risk of damaging the thread in the crank. Three times I had to remove the puller and back out the install bolt when it bottomed out on the pulley. The pulley came off smoothly and I felt no binding. I then attempted to remove the seal from the engine with no luck. I did not want to damage it in anyway so I left it in. I cleaned it and around it with a new shop rag. I also transferred the oil slinger from the old pulley to the new one. It just pops off with a little force.
I added RTV sealant to the pulleys keyed slot and then generously oil the outer surface that will contact the seal. I wanted no dry spots or risk of damaging the seal when I put in the new pulley. The new pulley was put in using the installer bolt supplied with the ASP kit. After the bolt was in about half way I took it out and used my original bolt. YES I KNOW....I am not supposed to use it again. Unfortunately I did not order a new one. I put some thread sealer on the bolt and then tightened it down. Another issue I had was not being able to keep the pulley still. So at just over 40# the crank turned a bit. I reinstalled the serpentine belt to gain some friction, but it still turned and my torque wrench clicked at about 45#. I will order a new bolt and install it when it comes it. I will also get a tool to hold the pulley stationary while I tighten it.
I started my car ( no fan installed) and it ran fine. No noise, no tensioner bounce and the pulley is perfectly straight with not a hint of a wobble.
Boy am I tired. Its tough doing this stuff in the street. I actually put one wheel up on the sidewalk so I could slide under the truck. I will put my scanguage to it tomorrow and see how the alternator performs. I know Aldive had to change the alternator pulley to bring it back up to speed. I will order my self a pulley also, so I don't have any issues down the road.
Now lets see if I gain some mpg.
Its late please excuse my crummy grammar.
If you have any questions please post or email me.
Vishant
I was planning to do it this summer, but my truck developed a horrid squeal. This occured after I just changed my serpentine belt 3 months ago. Since I have had this truck I have had to change the serpentine belt every year. I knew that something was wrong, but it was not so apparent. I changed my tensioner and idler some time ago when I first experienced the squeal during a winter.
So in the last 2 weeks I changed my serpentine belt. I changed my idler pulley and whole tensioner assembly just in case one was defective. So my truck was quiet for 1 day and then the squeal came back. I ran her without the serpentine and found no noise. I was led into a false discovery when my alternator made some noise. Lucky thing it was still under warranty and I was able to exchange it without incident (Pep Boys). I still had the squeal. I then thought maybe that the water pump pulley was glazed over from the old belt and now is too smooth to allow the new belt to grip. So I took my dremel tool and sanded the pulley and eliminated any shine. Now my squeal got worse. I ran the truck with the AC on also, but I still had this pulsing squeal. Then I finally looked down and saw my Harmonic Balancer wobbling around. I have always seen that my tensioner pulsed back and forth and knew thought that maybe my crank pulley had issues. Seem now it gotten worse enough to wear down the backs of the belts as they slid back and forth on the water pump pulley.
I went out and bought my Harmonic Balancer Puller from Pep Boys.
So my troubles didn't end. I did read here that the 8m bolts that come with the kit is too short. I was unable to find any from the hardware store. I then bought a cam shaft puller kit that had two 8m bolts about 1 inch longer. This proved to be too long and did not allow the puller base to sit firmly onto the crank pulley. To resolve this problem I bought a pack of washers and then added about six to each bolt and that worked fine. Now your tool still has an two issues. One is the bolt is too long and will not fit between the radiator and crank pulley. Lucky thing I bought the cam shaft puller and its bolt was much shorter and fit right into the pullers base. The second issue is that this bolt/screw does not seat into the crack shaft to allow the pulley to be pushed out. I figured this out while using a small mirror and flashlight to gain a viewing advantage into the pulley. I used the installer bolt that came with my ASP Underdrive Pulley. I threaded it in about half an was left then I was able to use the pulley remover. I threaded it in that far to avoid the risk of damaging the thread in the crank. Three times I had to remove the puller and back out the install bolt when it bottomed out on the pulley. The pulley came off smoothly and I felt no binding. I then attempted to remove the seal from the engine with no luck. I did not want to damage it in anyway so I left it in. I cleaned it and around it with a new shop rag. I also transferred the oil slinger from the old pulley to the new one. It just pops off with a little force.
I added RTV sealant to the pulleys keyed slot and then generously oil the outer surface that will contact the seal. I wanted no dry spots or risk of damaging the seal when I put in the new pulley. The new pulley was put in using the installer bolt supplied with the ASP kit. After the bolt was in about half way I took it out and used my original bolt. YES I KNOW....I am not supposed to use it again. Unfortunately I did not order a new one. I put some thread sealer on the bolt and then tightened it down. Another issue I had was not being able to keep the pulley still. So at just over 40# the crank turned a bit. I reinstalled the serpentine belt to gain some friction, but it still turned and my torque wrench clicked at about 45#. I will order a new bolt and install it when it comes it. I will also get a tool to hold the pulley stationary while I tighten it.
I started my car ( no fan installed) and it ran fine. No noise, no tensioner bounce and the pulley is perfectly straight with not a hint of a wobble.
Boy am I tired. Its tough doing this stuff in the street. I actually put one wheel up on the sidewalk so I could slide under the truck. I will put my scanguage to it tomorrow and see how the alternator performs. I know Aldive had to change the alternator pulley to bring it back up to speed. I will order my self a pulley also, so I don't have any issues down the road.
Now lets see if I gain some mpg.
Its late please excuse my crummy grammar.
If you have any questions please post or email me.
Vishant
