Understanding front door stays.

[Boomyal]

VOILA! It totally worked. Not a hint of a pop when the door opens or shuts. BUT, a couple of things to think of. One is that I drilled the lower hole about 1/4 of the way up the cylinder. This was too low as I ran into a rotating piece directly inside the cylinder. In a way, it was good because when I forced the grease in thru the top hole, it made the grease go down around the rotating inner part. The problem is that I cannot put a screw into that lower hole so it pushes a little grease out when the door opens and closes.

When I do my next stay (and others are just starting to pop a little) I will try to drill the lower hole about 1/3 of the way up the cylinder. Hopefully there will not be any rotating pieces directly inside the cylinder at that height. As it is now, I will just have to occasionally wipe the grease away from my lower hole in the driver's door stay.

I drilled the top hole 1/4" below the top of the cylinder. There was no moving part inside the cylinder at that location. However, grease wanted to squirt back out of that hole until I put a screw in it.

As for the screws themselves, I used little pan headed phillips stainless screws. Their size is #4 x 3/8". This was the shortest screw that my local specialty nut and bolt business had. After starting the screw into the top hole, I backed it out and cut off about 1/8", then ran it back in and seated it.

If using a #4 screw, which seemed like the right size, DO NOT drill over a 1/16" hole or the screw will not tighten down well.

 

[mvallyman]

Good to hear its working for you. Do you think you could put a small sticker over the lower hole to keep the grease in or maybe some JB Weld?

 

[Boomyal]

Good to hear its working for you. Do you think you could put a small sticker over the lower hole to keep the grease in or maybe some JB Weld?

I did think of cleaning the hole with some solvent and a cotton swab then putting in a dab of JB Weld. Problem is I would have to leave the door open for 24 hours to let it cure. Unfortunately it has to sit outside.

I think your idea of some kind of sticker, has merit. I'll have to keep my eye out for something suitable.

I assume you did not run into internal parts with your lower hole?

 

[Boomyal]

Taking your suggestion, mvallyman, I cleaned the cylinder off with some rubbing alcohol and placed a 1/2" square piece of Gorilla Duct Tape over the hole. It sticks real good.

 

[KevMo1958]

Fixed - Door Hinge Popping Noise

I drilled a 7/64 hole near the top of the cylinder. Used white lithium grease spray can with tube in nozzle. I used 7/64 as that was diameter of the grease tube. Stuck it in the hole and pointed it down. When I sprayed the grease wanted to come back out as others mentioned, but I was able to add slowly by pressing lightly on the nozzle. Opened and shut the door a few times and the noise went away completely!

I used a plastic hole plug to fill. Will probably replace the hole plug with a stainless screw.

It works - Good luck!

 

[07LTDDSM]

This happens to my driver's side rear door. It intermittently won't want to open all the way unless I force it, and then I hear the POP.

 

[06bluez]

I was successful greasing the stays.
I drilled a small hole about half way up the cylinder and another hole near the top to vent any old grease/air while filling the lower hole with a pinpoint grease gun. After filling with grease I plugged the holes with a small screw and there has been no noise since I did it four months ago.

thanks for sharing this, i used your two hole method on all 4 of my doors today and they all are silent now. a few had a white milky lube come out of them when greasing, where it looks like water might have gotten in there, but i used thick bearing grease so hoping that it will stay put and take care of the POP!

 

[Blackexplorer06]

Going to try this fix on all 4 of my doors this coming weekend.,

 

[Tracman]

I just went out and drilled and tapped the can for a grease zerk. Pumping some grease in helped a lot. It still has a small click but much less so and not nearly as annoying. If anyone finds an affordable replacement for these please let us know

Thanks GFish for the idea of using the grease zerk. I put one 1/4" down from the top of the little can, and drilled a much smaller hole close to the bottom for air to escape when pumping grease into the zerk. Put a plastic plug in bottom hole. Works great and solves a problem people have been experiencing for several years with no known solution. Thanks again.

 

[BrianDye]

Anybody have any pictures of where they drilled the holes?

I just picked up a 2006, and all 4 doors have slight clicks/pops when you open or close them. Havent tried just shooting them externally with anything yet, since ive been at work so long this past week, but seems like my best results would be to drill the hole and grease.

 

[Mickalo]

yea that would be nice gotta driver's front door doing that popping when ya open it. read through this thread thought might be some pics where these 2 holes where drilled.

 

[Tracman]

yea that would be nice gotta driver's front door doing that popping when ya open it. read through this thread thought might be some pics where these 2 holes where drilled.

If you have a 2010 it has to be drilled and lubricated that way. I don't know first hand about other year models. External lube will not do any good. That's a sealed unit that has be reached with grease. I fixed mine in 2015 when it first started popping.

 

[Mickalo]

If you have a 2010 it has to be drilled and lubricated that way. I don't know first hand about other year models. External lube will not do any good. That's a sealed unit that has be reached with grease. I fixed mine in 2015 when it first started popping.

where exactly do you need to drill these holes? about what size needed to drill it ?

 

[Tracman]

where exactly do you need to drill these holes? about what size needed to drill it ?

I used a 1/16 bit and drilled almost half way up from the bottom. Any lower and you will hit an internal part. It takes a very small tip for your grease gun but they are available at most parts stores and at discount tool stores.

 

[Justin J]

Thanks Ford, for such a stupid design! Designed to Fail!

 

[Justin J]

Anyone has taken the hinge down, and checked how it works inside? It may not need a drill.

 

[jerry358]

It appears that the detent hardware to keep the front doors open are on the bottom hinge. There is a closed top tube that rises above the hinge that must contain the friction apparatus.

My driver's door makes a pretty good pop/snap sound when opening and closing it. It acts like it wants some lube but I cannot see where to apply it.

Anyone have a clue?

 

[Fix4Dirt]

theres no content within the post, just a quote. just an FYI if you wanted to post a question, we cant see it

 

[Bazz270]

Anyone has taken the hinge down, and checked how it works inside? It may not need a drill.

It is some kind of spring loaded ratchet mechanism.

The cylinder itself it is just a crimped dust cover.you can take the whole dust cover off besides of drilling em.

Reassemble with rtv adhesive or so

 

[michael loibl]

I gave my 2006 to my cousin last year but I’m still a little curious. Maybe next time I see one in the junkyard I’ll take a hinge off and do a little experimenting on it