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Upgrading center channel 3.5" speaker

xartic

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City, State
Colorado
Year, Model & Trim Level
2014 Explorer Sport
I'm wanting to swap out the stock 3.5" 8 Ohm center channel speaker and was wondering if those that have done it, did you use a full range speaker or a 2/3-way speaker?

I'm leaning toward a Dayton Audio PS95-8 to replace my stock one with but if a 2 or 3 way would sound better then I would like to pursue that.
 



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I used Kicker DSC350 to replace my center speaker. Sounds great.
 






Can someone enlighten me about what that center channel speaker does, I mean if you have a typical 2 channel stereo source, which (or both?) channels get routed to it?
 






I used a Kenwood KFC835C.
You are going from a Chicom 50 cent speaker with a quarter size magnet and a bandpass capacitor to a full range speaker.
Two things:
- You need some Dynamat to keep the dash from rattling with the new speaker since it has way more dynamic range.
- The center channel may be too loud with the new speaker. There is no single volume control for this speaker, it is connected to the two front channels. So if you select Surround Sound, the music may be too much toward the front center.

Fritz
 






^ Those two issues are manageable, calculate series capacitor for a high pass filter (could try reusing the original if as stated it has one), and a series resistor to reduce volume, though the resistor value may need some experimentation/audition rather than calculated.

I am curious about the speculation that the new speaker may be too loud though, OEM speakers are usually fairly efficient... at least at midrange, and for overall sound quality (unless the dash speaker was degraded by sun/heat) I would replace L/R before center so not a contrast between OEM L/R and aftermarket center.
 






I used a Kenwood KFC835C.
You are going from a Chicom 50 cent speaker with a quarter size magnet and a bandpass capacitor to a full range speaker.
Two things:
- You need some Dynamat to keep the dash from rattling with the new speaker since it has way more dynamic range.
- The center channel may be too loud with the new speaker. There is no single volume control for this speaker, it is connected to the two front channels. So if you select Surround Sound, the music may be too much toward the front center.

Fritz
Thanks for the reply. I have some sound deadening I alway put behind and around the speaker enclosure already so thanks for reminding me to do it there.

So you’re recommending a full range speaker and not getting one with a tweeter? I was eying the Dayton since it was a single speaker as well as full range.

Also, the loudness it what I’m seeking since the front tweeters don’t sound the best and I’m looking to replace those as well. I have an infinity Basslink 2 that has a 4ch amp in it as well but the 4ch is 50x4 at 2 Ohms and 35x4 at 4 Ohms and I already did 4 Ohm Rockford fosgate speakers on the doors. Bought it after the install not knowing it had the amp built in (previous owner didn’t know so I got a freebie) so it’s not worth a few extra watts to rewire my entire car.
 






^ Those two issues are manageable, calculate series capacitor for a high pass filter (could try reusing the original if as stated it has one), and a series resistor to reduce volume, though the resistor value may need some experimentation/audition rather than calculated.

I am curious about the speculation that the new speaker may be too loud though, OEM speakers are usually fairly efficient... at least at midrange, and for overall sound quality (unless the dash speaker was degraded by sun/heat) I would replace L/R before center so not a contrast between OEM L/R and aftermarket center.
I have the premium sound system and not the Sony. I replaced the front door speakers, door tweeters and installed 2" mid-range tweeters in the pillars that really improved the sound. Once all speakers were replaced with crossovers in each front door I noticed the center speaker was a bit too loud so I purchased the attenuator below:

http://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express...1460757442&sr=8-2&keywords=speaker+attenuator

There is plenty of room in the center speaker cavity for this to sit. I padded it up and it took several tries until I finally nailed the volume. A cheap, but very important addition for proper sound.
 






Thanks for the replies everyone.

Tomorrow I will be installing the 3.5" Dayton I linked in the original post as well as putting some of the 50 mil sound deadener around it. I want to gauge the sound/loudness before I start adding additional components to control the sound.
 






Just for an update, not sure where people where getting this is a 8Ohm center speaker, it’s clearly printed on a label 6 Ohm/25W if you have the Sony setup.

I’m hesitant about installing the 8Ohm since it will technically receive less power than the factor one. Also, the speaker itself needs some kind of mounting bracket to get it to fit.

This fragile center console cracked at the very top by the vents. Pretty frustrated with it but this may be my push to get a Tesla style screen from Phoenix Automotive.
 






^ Parked in the sun a lot? If so then I'd get a dash shade panel.

8 ohm receiving less power could be a factor but it's more about the relative efficiency vs the original. I'd buy from somewhere with a good return policy, try it and then decide.
 






^ Parked in the sun a lot? If so then I'd get a dash shade panel.

8 ohm receiving less power could be a factor but it's more about the relative efficiency vs the original. I'd buy from somewhere with a good return policy, try it and then decide.
Well that's the thing, the very top above the vents is very very thing and when I was carefully prying everything off, the clip behind it was entirely way too hard to get out before it snapped. I slightly compressed the clip so it's not going to be an issue in the future. I've been wanting a carplay/android auto setup and paying for they sync3 upgrade i'll just get a new PA Tesla style that also have the physical AC controls (hate the 11-15 touch panel).

I'm sending them back for some Infinity Reference REF-3032CFX and see how they perform. They are 4 ohm so I'll hear how loud they are and if they need a crossover added to it.
 






Your new (expensive) REF-3032CFX has the same mounting as my KFC-835C. Which means it will be wobbly when screwed on since there is a gap between the speaker and the grill.
I used Dynamat and covered the gap between the speaker and the grill. Sort of a skirt around the outside of the speaker cone. No rattles and a solid hold. Or you can find some hard foam and cut a ring to go between the speaker frame and grill.
Also you need to be careful the tweeter on your REF-3032CFX doesn't stick out enough to hit the grill when mounted.

Fritz
 






Your new (expensive) REF-3032CFX has the same mounting as my KFC-835C. Which means it will be wobbly when screwed on since there is a gap between the speaker and the grill.
I used Dynamat and covered the gap between the speaker and the grill. Sort of a skirt around the outside of the speaker cone. No rattles and a solid hold. Or you can find some hard foam and cut a ring to go between the speaker frame and grill.
Also you need to be careful the tweeter on your REF-3032CFX doesn't stick out enough to hit the grill when mounted.

Fritz
I definitely appreciate the tips for install. I will be doing it tomorrow when they come in and I'll be able to create some kind of mounting for it to prevent the movement.

Also, I bought these "renewed" from Amazon for $32 shipped for the pair since I only needed the one.
 






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