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Radio wiring diagram for a 2013 Explorer XLT

Ark =D

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Year, Model & Trim Level
2013 Ford Explorer XLT
Hello!

Just purchased a used 2013 Ford Explorer XLT (MFT 8" screen, Nav, non-Sony 9-speaker audio) and I'm looking to do some audio upgrades. I've come to the realization that replacing the factory radio is not going to happen, so I am turning my focus elsewhere.

I've searched and searched, but I cannot find anything ... does anyone know of a way I can get a radio wiring diagram for this vehicle? Or, at least, some information on how many channels/what speakers are part of which channels?

Many thanks in advance!
Jeremy
 



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Hello!

Just purchased a used 2013 Ford Explorer XLT (MFT 8" screen, Nav, non-Sony 9-speaker audio) and I'm looking to do some audio upgrades. I've come to the realization that replacing the factory radio is not going to happen, so I am turning my focus elsewhere.

I've searched and searched, but I cannot find anything ... does anyone know of a way I can get a radio wiring diagram for this vehicle? Or, at least, some information on how many channels/what speakers are part of which channels?

Many thanks in advance!
Jeremy
Welcome to the Forum.:wave:

Peter
 






Hello!

Just purchased a used 2013 Ford Explorer XLT (MFT 8" screen, Nav, non-Sony 9-speaker audio) and I'm looking to do some audio upgrades. I've come to the realization that replacing the factory radio is not going to happen, so I am turning my focus elsewhere.

I've searched and searched, but I cannot find anything ... does anyone know of a way I can get a radio wiring diagram for this vehicle? Or, at least, some information on how many channels/what speakers are part of which channels?

Many thanks in advance!
Jeremy

Hi
You have 5 30w channels. There are pics in this forum.

one speaker to the front in Dash

One channel to each door.

Front doors have oval 6/9 with leads to tweeters in doors that are filtered at that point.

Rear doors have 6+ inch round which are wired in parallel with small 4 inch speaker to the third row.

The biggest problem with these OEM speakers to me are the Plastic frames integrated with the magnets and speaker cones. As the coil is reacting to the signal and the magnet pulls it back I think the frames are not rigid enough to absorb the changes cleanly and the sound is not clear. Muddy. Nothing you can do about it except replace them.

Hot tip. Get speakers with steel frames. I found some 3-way Infinity Kappas for the rear. A pair of Pioneer components for the drivers doors. I also pulled the rear panel and easily unplugged the third row toy speakers. Major Difference.

Now the music source is all I have to live with. BTW Sirius/XM is free next two weeks.
 






Welcome to the Forum.:wave:

Peter

Thank you! Your community seems awesome; I plan to read and hopefully contribute for years to come!

Hi
You have 5 30w channels. There are pics in this forum.

one speaker to the front in Dash

One channel to each door.

Front doors have oval 6/9 with leads to tweeters in doors that are filtered at that point.

Rear doors have 6+ inch round which are wired in parallel with small 4 inch speaker to the third row.

The biggest problem with these OEM speakers to me are the Plastic frames integrated with the magnets and speaker cones. As the coil is reacting to the signal and the magnet pulls it back I think the frames are not rigid enough to absorb the changes cleanly and the sound is not clear. Muddy. Nothing you can do about it except replace them.

Hot tip. Get speakers with steel frames. I found some 3-way Infinity Kappas for the rear. A pair of Pioneer components for the drivers doors. I also pulled the rear panel and easily unplugged the third row toy speakers. Major Difference.

Now the music source is all I have to live with. BTW Sirius/XM is free next two weeks.

This is exactly what I was looking for ... thanks so much for taking the time to help me out. My Google-Fu must have failed me!

I appreciate the help, thanks again!!

*edit* Oh, one more question if I could ... do you know if the resistances on the 5 channels are all the standard 4-ohm? If not, no big deal, I'll get to "exploring" the Explorer and find out that way.
 






Hello!

Just purchased a used 2013 Ford Explorer XLT (MFT 8" screen, Nav, non-Sony 9-speaker audio) and I'm looking to do some audio upgrades. I've come to the realization that replacing the factory radio is not going to happen, so I am turning my focus elsewhere.

I've searched and searched, but I cannot find anything ... does anyone know of a way I can get a radio wiring diagram for this vehicle? Or, at least, some information on how many channels/what speakers are part of which channels?

Many thanks in advance!
Jeremy

Check out this link, I think this is similar to what you are trying to do.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/explorer-audio-upgrade-s.348974/page-6
 












Thank you! Your community seems awesome; I plan to read and hopefully contribute for years to come!



This is exactly what I was looking for ... thanks so much for taking the time to help me out. My Google-Fu must have failed me!

I appreciate the help, thanks again!!

*edit* Oh, one more question if I could ... do you know if the resistances on the 5 channels are all the standard 4-ohm? If not, no big deal, I'll get to "exploring" the Explorer and find out that way.

Best thing to do is ohm out the speakers themselves. I at first thought there are differences between front and second seat, mostly because of how they sound. But with both being in parallel, the front with the tweeter and the rear door with the third row I suspect they are equal. Untill I replaced all four doors and played them for a day or two they did not sound balanced. They seemed to improve with time till I found a good fader front/rear setting I liked. Have not changed them much.
My speakers can handle 100w plus and I am only pushing with 30w. Crutchfield has a pulg/in 100+ watt amp that would certainly improve if needed but for me 30w in a car is plenty.

I put these in front doors. With a size adapter (Metra 82-5603 6" to 6-1/4" Speaker Adapter Plates for 11-up Ford Explorer (pair)) which came with it from Crutchfield.You can check specs.
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_130TSD1730/Pioneer-TS-D1730C.html?tp=106&omnews=13656682

Rear Door has
https://www.google.com/search?q=infinity+kappa+63.&espv=2&biw=1280&bih=598&tbm=isch&imgil=ISc2l5-Jy0tCcM%3A%3BPBs4RNe-oapzSM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.crutchfield.com%252FISEO-rgbtcspd%252Fp_108639I%252FInfinity-Kappa-63-9i.html&source=iu&pf=m&fir=ISc2l5-Jy0tCcM%3A%2CPBs4RNe-oapzSM%2C_&usg=__0Zch1Js2PgY54O7HnWxGRzkGPmU=&ved=0ahUKEwjP7Obs1d_OAhVFLB4KHX9NA-oQyjcIJw&ei=A4XAV4_fAsXYeP-ajdAO#imgrc=ISc2l5-Jy0tCcM:

Again you can check specs. They all work great. Be sure to unplug the third row speakers. They are totally unneeded. Dig thru the site for pics I have posted of rear door install.
 






Nice, how did you end up mounting the tweeters from the component set?

I intend to amp everything by the time I'm done with this. I was thinking of replacing both rear and both 3rd-row speakers and running all four as two 2-ohm loads on the amp's two rear channels. I don't know though, it'll probably come down to budget in the end.
 






Nice, how did you end up mounting the tweeters from the component set?

I intend to amp everything by the time I'm done with this. I was thinking of replacing both rear and both 3rd-row speakers and running all four as two 2-ohm loads on the amp's two rear channels. I don't know though, it'll probably come down to budget in the end.

The tweeters fit in the same brackets but did not click in of course. I simply hot-glue gun on the edges and that's all. No destruction and easy enough to remove. What you have to deal with are the crossover networks I zip tied inside the door panel, just below the little access panel/door lock switch. If I need to I can reach the +-3db option.
When doing this it's tricky because the main speakers are in the door and the tweeters are in the panel connected, now by wiring.
Make sure the wiring is long enough between so you can do the door panel install. Just tuck it in between existing power wires to keep from flopping around.
BTW each door has 7 tough clips holding each panel in place. I was able to remove without breaking anything but it took time. Rear were tougher then the front. When prying against painted surfaces I used a thin strong cake frosting blade under the door panel tool to keep off the paint. Every clip is satisfying when they pop.
 






Nice, how did you end up mounting the tweeters from the component set?

I intend to amp everything by the time I'm done with this. I was thinking of replacing both rear and both 3rd-row speakers and running all four as two 2-ohm loads on the amp's two rear channels. I don't know though, it'll probably come down to budget in the end.

Disconnecting third row is a piece of cake. Start there before upgrading. That disconnect point would be a great signal source for Bass amp L/R separated if bass is wanted. Note the wiring colors are same as in door and always keep polarity straight.
 






Hi
You have 5 30w channels. There are pics in this forum.

one speaker to the front in Dash

One channel to each door.

Front doors have oval 6/9 with leads to tweeters in doors that are filtered at that point.

Rear doors have 6+ inch round which are wired in parallel with small 4 inch speaker to the third row.

The biggest problem with these OEM speakers to me are the Plastic frames integrated with the magnets and speaker cones. As the coil is reacting to the signal and the magnet pulls it back I think the frames are not rigid enough to absorb the changes cleanly and the sound is not clear. Muddy. Nothing you can do about it except replace them.

Hot tip. Get speakers with steel frames. I found some 3-way Infinity Kappas for the rear. A pair of Pioneer components for the drivers doors. I also pulled the rear panel and easily unplugged the third row toy speakers. Major Difference.

Now the music source is all I have to live with. BTW Sirius/XM is free next two weeks.
Hello where can I find this wire diagram
 












Welcome to the Forum.:wave:
The post you quoted does not mention a wiring diagram. I found this using the Forum's 'Search' feature. Maybe it will help. BBB Industries- Premium Alternators, Starters, Power Steering Products and Turbochargers | TSB and Wiring Diagrams Database End-User License Agreement

Peter
I have a 2014 Ford Explorer with the 8inch touch screen not Sony. I’m looking for a wire diagram so I can hook up a remote wire and rca converter that taps into the speaker wires
 






Sounds like you may possibly have an XLT. I don't know if the Base came with an 8" screen. Do you have Navigation?
 






Sounds like you may possibly have an XLT. I don't know if the Base came with an 8" screen. Do you have Navigation?
Yes I believe it’s the XLT and yes I have navigation. I checked that link and was not able to find it
 






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