Upper control arm bushing adjustment after lift | Ford Explorer Forums

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Upper control arm bushing adjustment after lift

AKbrener

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City, State
Dickinson, TX
Year, Model & Trim Level
2005 Explorer Eddie Bauer
Just curious if anyone has an input on loosening the control arm bushings after adding BTF spacers to reset the midpoint? I was thinking that since those upper bushings are under a bit more stress, especially since a pry bar or something is needed to get the ball joints in.

Would it be ok to loosen the side bolts, slack up the bushings, then re tighten with the wheels still on the ground?
 



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Those side bolts are not what you want to adjust for alignment after a strut spacer lift...leave them alone because that's what helps keep the control arms firmly attached to your frame. You wouldn't want them to detach while driving or get jarred loose under hard braking...very bad.

Now, if you look at that crossbar that goes through the bushings, it's bolted to some flat pedestals. There are some metal shims on the underside that keep the suspension aligned (in a stock setup). After a spacer lift those metal shims should get replaced with either washers or a camber kit that lets the control arm get slid more outboard from the vehicle centerline (camber adjustment) or more towards the front or rear of the vehicle (caster) before being tightened back down. You should have the vehicle professionally aligned so that the right amount of adjustment gets made.
 






I am not talking about anything alignment wise.. I am talking about the two nuts on the sides of the bushing itself, on the horizontal bar. if you loosen those side nuts it will release the pressure on the bushings, getting them at a neutral, unloaded position when the truck is sitting on the ground.

What I am thinking is when you put the spacer in and have to pry like hell to get the control arm down, putting alot of stress on those bushings setup for stock ride height. So allowing the bushing to be "unloaded" while normal driving, then keep its designed twisting control when hitting bumps, seems to be alot better on the rubber, giving it a longer life.

I dunno if I am explaining this correctly...
 












Just curious if anyone has an input on loosening the control arm bushings after adding BTF spacers to reset the midpoint? I was thinking that since those upper bushings are under a bit more stress, especially since a pry bar or something is needed to get the ball joints in.

Would it be ok to loosen the side bolts, slack up the bushings, then re tighten with the wheels still on the ground?


Yes loosen the side bolts to allow the upper arm to relax into place, then tighten the bolts (if you can get in there) when the truck is on the ground. This is what I did, it should help with upper ball joint stress as it is not trying to pull the joint out! Another note, you WILL need alignment kits for both front and rear! Everyone take note of this, your camber is way out of spec after installing spacers! I just finished installing the camber kits on my truck, the front camber was -2.2 degrees drivers side, and -1.9 degrees passenger side after installing spacers. The rear was not as bad but still out of spec. The toe was also over a half of an inch off. After installing the camber kits and just about maxing out the adjustment it is now just in spec. These kits can be bought at Napa, the front part number is 264-2073, rear 264-2074.

A simple toe adjustment is not going to work on these trucks after installing spacers. It will need these kits and a "proper" 4 wheel alignment done! 800 bucks for tires is a lot, I would like mine to last more then 20K, thus the reason I put the extra effort into making it right.

I am a master certified mechanic in the state of Michigan and have access to an alignment rack so if anyone needs to question me on this please feel free.
 












I think I get it now...you're basically setting a new "relaxed" position for the uca. Where that position used to be horizontal (pulling the uca up or down and letting it go it wants to spring back to horizontal) you are pretty much setting it so that new relaxed position is now the angle the lifted suspension puts the control arm at when the wheels are on the ground.

Hey 04Edge question for you...could the alignment change simply by putting on larger tires with wheels that have less backspacing? I wonder if that is causing an intermitttent steering wheel shimmy that I started getting at 50+ mph when I put on the new wheels and tires. They are balanced from what I know.
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Yes, the final product will be a new relaxed position for the UCA bushings. the angle of the ball joint will still be the same, but the amount of vertical force on that ball joint will be alot less due to the release of pressure on the bushings.

As far as tires and backspacing, i dont think it would really change the alignment, but it may put a bit more stress against the alignment with the weight pushed out further from the spindle, that question will probably be better answered by 04 EDGE.
 






As long as all 4 of the new tires are the same size I don't think it would throw off the alignment. However if the ride height changes enough it could change it.
 






Hmm. Probably a balancing issue then. I'm going to get her in the shop and get the tires roadforce balanced and have the alignment done when I get the BTF arms.

04EDGE 1 more question...should I wait and get an alignment after I swap out my differentials for the regeared ones? The swap out will involve disconnecting the tie rod ends and the upper balljoints front and rear...do you think removing/reconnecting those parts will mess with the alignment?
 






If you have spacers and have not had the alignment corrected (camber kits) you need to get that done asap! disconnecting front end parts should not change anything as long as the same parts are reinstalled and nothing is altered.
 






I know I should. Only driven it a few hundred miles since installing the spacers but I held off when I heard the BTF arms were coming out. Might go ahead and do the alignment and then they can correct for the BTF arms later when I install those.
 






don't waste your money on a simple toe adjustment, and that's what 99% of shops will do. Unless you put the adjust kits in and have someone who knows what they are doing do the alignment you are wasting your time and money! I to am waiting on the upper arms, but there is no set time as to when they will be ready, so I went ahead and did what I could with what I have. The wheels did not look straight after installing the spacers, and when I set it up on the alignment rack I confirmed it. -2.2 degrees is not good, even if you get the toe set with that much negative camber tire wear on the inner edges will happen, and happen very quick!
 






Will the extended arm remedy the added camber or allow it to be aligned using the stock equipment? (sorry if this is a stupid question)
 






Pretty sure camber kits will be needed with the BTF arms.
 






Cool, thank's mate.
 






I've run the lift now for thousands miles and noticed my $750 tires were already unworn after the 4 wheel alignment! I took it back to the shop and they put it back on the rig. Indeed it was off. They corrected it for me and I observed them and even got to monitor/check the alignment computer as they did it. SO it went back straight, for now.... My first impression was all the off-roading threw it off. But does it naturally get pulled out of whack do to the stress?
 






I got my alignment done....weird results though. Camber and caster were not dead on but were within factory specs. Front toe was way off though...that got fixed.

Could just be me but seems to feel a bit tighter in the handling on the road.

Also had my tires roadforce balanced....it's nice to finally have a smooth, shake free ride.
 






Hey my btf control arms for my 07 on on the way. I am kinda new to alignment issues but why is a camber kit needed? I know the electrician on here ligned his up after putting the arms on using the stock nuts. Didn't know if there was a safety issue using them. I have plenty of room now to slide the control arm in or our to adjust camber as needed. Thanks.
 



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I had BFT spacer kit installed as well. I had the truck alligned right away. There was never a mention of a camber kit? What kind should I get?

I been getting a weird vibration in the front when I am on the gas. Sometimes it goes away when I let off the gas. The sway bar links were missing so I don't know if that would cause the vibration?
 






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