Upper Control arm replacement on '97 XLT

[1996Z15]

I have a 1997 Explorer with roughly 200,000 miles and it needs to have the upper control arms replaced. (Actually needs upper ball joints but, it's easier to replace the entire assembly I have been told).

I have looked on Rock Auto for the parts but, there are so many choices I have no idea which ones I should order. I have been told that one side is a two piece design and I only need the outer part?

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

[swshawaii]

1995-01 OEM upper ball joints are not replaceable. Benefit of the two-piece UCA is more caster adjustment.

Advantage of the one-piece design is higher strength and new bushings. Search "one piece vs. two piece".

http://www.moogproblemsolver.com/_pdf_en2/DYK10_106_En.pdf

http://www.moogproblemsolver.com/_pdf_en1/MOOG_PS_Bulletin_27045_Ford_Truck_Control_Arms_En.pdf

 

[drdoom]

The passenger side with a two piece can be replaced very easily because you are not dealing with the cam bolts and bushings. The one piece driver's side on the other hand is very difficult dealing with the cam bolts,fuel lines, etc. Consider installing Moog cam bolt kits when you do the repairs.

 

[SoNic67]

Correct, passenger side is 2-piece design, driver side is 1-piece design.
I just got my passenger side replaced last week, from Advance Auto Parts. With ordering online and local pick up, add the code from RetailMeNot and I paid $40 for it.
I marked the actual center position with a marker and put the new one in the same position to maintain caster alignment as much as possible. 10 minute job.

Except lubricating it, because I ran out of lithium grease in my gun, so I did have to drive back to store for more grease.

 

[swshawaii]

Given a choice I would have used the two piece replacement. As mentioned above, carefully marking the position of the old
two piece arm, you may not need alignment. Reminds me of replacing a cheap outer tie rod and needing an expensive alignment.

 

[SoNic67]

Reminds me of replacing a cheap outer tie rod and needing an expensive alignment.

An older guy showed me a good while ago how to count the tie rod rotations and scratch the number on the inner fender (so I won't need another time).

 

[swshawaii]

An older guy showed me a good while ago how to count the tie rod rotations and scratch the number on the inner fender (so I won't needed another time).

Issue is finding a replacement that's EXACTLY the same, even OEM. As you know, dialing in toe without machines is splitting hairs.

 

[SoNic67]

Fine pitch is the same. Starting point of the thread might be different, so at the most you err 1/2 turn.... Good enough.
Even alignment places show a "green" range when they say "it's in the specs".

 

[chefduane]

I was able to do my L&R UCA/balls with Dorman hardware and the Moog Problem solver cam kits reasonably easy. 'Reasonably easy' is relative of course. There is a DIY place in town that rents lifts and tools, and has an ASE Certified Mech on duty to help our amateurs like me. Took me a few hours to do them but I got them done. Used the one piece design for the pass side. The next day I took it to an alignment place and had it aligned by the shop. About $100. The Tech said I had gotten them pretty close for a amateur. Mighta' been blowin' smoke UMA but hey, I'm good to go. There is a pretty good step-by-step write up here on the site some (sorry, I don't have the citation.)
But if can do them, you can do them.