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Lower control arm replacement

omcforever

Member
Joined
July 30, 2010
Messages
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City, State
Aiken SC
Year, Model & Trim Level
1999 Mountaineer 5.0
I have a 1999 Mountaineer 5.0 2WD and need to know what is involved with replacing the lower control arms. Done it before on other cars but they did not have torsion bars. ALLDATA says I need specials tools. Any help and guidance would be appreciated.(Hopefully I can keep this a backyard affair):D Thanks
 



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no special tools are needed.
you can pretty much follow most of the guide that's stickied for replacing the lower balljoint.

Once you get everything disconnected from the LCA, simply loosen/remove the torsion bar adjuster bolt, unbolt the LCA and pull it forward off the t-bar.

installing of new LCA is just the opposite.

Just make sure to mark the torsion bar adjuster bolts so you have an idea as to how much to tighten them, and also make marks on the t-bar and old LCA so you know where they are installed relative to each other; and make a copy of the LCA mark on the new LCA on the identical side.

if that makes sense...
 






Why are you replacing the LCA? Do you just need to replace the ball joint, or the entire LCA?

Just a harmless question. This is the first vehicle I've owned that the lower ball joint was replacable independant of the LCA.
 






main reasons for replacing the LCA:

deformed LBJ hole, due to improper removal/installation of LBJ.
replacing LCA to frame bushings, since they are non-serviable. Well, they are, but a thread or two where somebody tried to replace them, the bushings became dangerous flying objects when being pressed out.
 






Why are you replacing the LCA? Do you just need to replace the ball joint, or the entire LCA?

Just a harmless question. This is the first vehicle I've owned that the lower ball joint was replacable independant of the LCA.

They are (2) worn completley out/worn oblong and sloppy. Looks as if they where never tightened and moved around. Thanks for all the info guidance everyone. Art
 






pretty sure you need the tool to install the torsion bars later, the stock bolt is a 2 short, and less the bars are fatigued they have a nice spring in them when twisted. also putting the lower arm in with the bar will be a pain esp on the floor.
 






pretty sure you need the tool to install the torsion bars later, the stock bolt is a 2 short, and less the bars are fatigued they have a nice spring in them when twisted. also putting the lower arm in with the bar will be a pain esp on the floor.

eh, wasn't too difficult for me.

once you remove the knuckle, shock, and sway bar, the arms can swing down quite a bit more.
 












2k AWD Explorer Upper/Lower control arms replace

I just did this last weekend. I'm no expert by any means. Did the driver's side first and learned what *not* to do and made a video of the passenger side:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ISUI3WmQHA

I need a massive alignment after that. Also, it could be my imagination but it seems the steering wheel is rotated in that it is not exactly perpendicular to the driver. It's like if I measured the distance from 9 o'clock position to the seat it would larger than the distance from the 3 o-clock position to the seat. Could this possibly be due to the new control arms? I did replace the end of one of the tie-rods, but must have come close to getting it back in the same position...
 












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