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Upper Control arms

nordictom

Member
Joined
January 20, 2013
Messages
25
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City, State
Surf City, CA
Year, Model & Trim Level
1998 Explorer 4x4
Does anyone have a used set of Upper Control arms for a 1998 Explorer 4x4 4.0 sohc?

They don't need to be perfect, not bent though. But I am looking for a set with the replaceable ball joints.

I will pay shipping. If you are in so cal, I probably pick up.

I know it's a long shot...............:chug:

Thanks in advance.

NT
 



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You might be in luck. I am going to do my UCA's/balls on my '98 4x4 4.0 SOHC probably next weekend. Maybe this weekend if my inner splash shields come in from RA. I'm not sure if the ball joints can be replaced, tho. I thought they were all one unit. Also, I'm replacing the pass side two-piece with a one piece tho that means nothing to you.
Chef Duane
btw I grew up in Fullerton, surfed and lived in HB for some years.
 






You might be in luck. I am going to do my UCA's/balls on my '98 4x4 4.0 SOHC probably next weekend. Maybe this weekend if my inner splash shields come in from RA. I'm not sure if the ball joints can be replaced, tho. I thought they were all one unit. Also, I'm replacing the pass side two-piece with a one piece tho that means nothing to you.
Chef Duane
btw I grew up in Fullerton, surfed and lived in HB for some years.

Thanks. let me know either way. you are correct, The 2 piece won't work.

We might have shared the same wave ......:thumbsup:
BTW, I am working on a prototype set of upper control arms for the daughters Explorer.

NT
 






sorry, but if they are OE upper control arms, the ball joints can not be replaced.
 






sorry, but if they are OE upper control arms, the ball joints can not be replaced.

Yes, Koda is correct. Since my balls are OE, they are irreplaceable.
:D
Chef Duane
 






Yes, Koda is correct. Since my balls are OE, they are irreplaceable.
:D
Chef Duane

boy, you must really think a lot of your OE upper control arm bj's if you feel they are irreplaceable...:D mine were just non-replaceable.
 






No problem.

Does anyone know what brand of control arms have the replaceable ball joints?



NT
 






No problem.

Does anyone know what brand of control arms have the replaceable ball joints?



NT

most of us like/use the Moog Problem Solver replacement upper control arms. they ball joints are replaceable. RockAuto is a good source for them.
 






most of us like/use the Moog Problem Solver replacement upper control arms. they ball joints are replaceable. RockAuto is a good source for them.

From this forum, I have noticed most choose Moog. I have had good luck with them on other vehicles.

Hopefully someone will have a set they want to dump. Worse comes to worse, it's my understanding the Moog's are forged. I can cut up a new set, re-weld the bushing ends, to test the geometry.

Thanks,
NT
 






From this forum, I have noticed most choose Moog. I have had good luck with them on other vehicles.

Hopefully someone will have a set they want to dump. Worse comes to worse, it's my understanding the Moog's are forged. I can cut up a new set, re-weld the bushing ends, to test the geometry.

Thanks,
NT

i'm not sure what you're trying to accomplish with the control arms by cutting/welding. i wouldn't trust a welded control arm, i don't care who welded it. the one-piece Moog UCA's come complete ready to install with bushings and the ball joint (seems any brand/price-point you can buy come this way). i can understand needing to save money by installing good used control arms, but why talk about cutting/welding? there are just 2 bolts that attach them to the truck.
 












From this forum, I have noticed most choose Moog. I have had good luck with them on other vehicles.

Hopefully someone will have a set they want to dump. Worse comes to worse, it's my understanding the Moog's are forged. I can cut up a new set, re-weld the bushing ends, to test the geometry.

Thanks,
NT
Do you have any idea what you are doing or even talking about ???
Why would you cut up a forged control and then try to piece one back together again makes no sense to me .. IMO you should build a jig with the factory control arm and then mod from there using pre made ends with bushing and DOM tubing and a uni ball
 






For the price of them, and the hassle on the drivers side I would just install new ones. Those upper control arms are pretty important.
 






Why is that ???

maybe i missed something here. i'm not questioning the strength & reliability of a control arm made of dom tubing. i use these all the time on other projects. i thought the OP was talking about cutting a forged OE style control arm and re-welding it.

as far as making one out of dom tubing, unless the OP is trying to do something out of the ordinary, it would be much easier (and less expensive) to just buy new OE style replacements. even new ebay Chinese control arms make more since that reusing old used ones.
 






For the price of them, and the hassle on the drivers side I would just install new ones. Those upper control arms are pretty important.

rust issues not withstanding, changing the upper control arm isn't all that hard. i'd rate it a 3-4 on the difficulty scale once you get everything out of our way. it's just 2 bolts. yes, there are some lines in your way, but they can be unbolted and/or gently bent out of the way.
 






I used the Chinese front end stuff and it lasted about 6 months. Then replaced everything again with Moog problem solvers and it's been problem free for at least 3 years now.
 






I used the Chinese front end stuff and it lasted about 6 months. Then replaced everything again with Moog problem solvers and it's been problem free for at least 3 years now.

i never said the Chinese stuff was quality. just relatively inexpensive. i use Moog.
 






TAKE IT EASY GUY's...............

from my previous post, I am working on a prototype UCA. I can find a cad drawing or the dimensions for the OEM UCS, so if I can find a used one with the removeable Ball joint, it would make it easier to measure it.

I can make one from the dimensioned piece in about an hour to cycle the suspension to check for issues. If I cut and welded an UCA, it would take about another hour. just trying to save time & effort.

The end goal is to correct the caster on the daughters explorer. I have 31/4* adjusters & the caster is still 1/2* out. So I need to make a longer UCA. If it works........:thumbsup:

BTW, you can weld a forged piece the 4130 with the correct weld process, & the base metals will fail before the weld.


Thanks,
NT
 






longer upper arms will definitely affect camber, caster not so much.

Perry
 



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