V8 Sport 5-speed

[srt_hubcap]

Ok people , i think my 2000 sport is about to pop the ohv 4.0 .
its a 5-speed model ..

I'm thinkin about a fast drop in swap ...
5.0 from a 2000 model , so i'll have the GTP heads ,
M40D from a 95 F-150 ,
V8 explorer radiator and exhaust , motor mounts
for the motor i'm thinking carb "edelbrock" with a air gap rpm intake ,
F303 cam and 1.7 roller rockers ,
DuraSpark distributer and run HEI .

If i go Carb-HEI i wont need to do all the wire crap , :scratch:
Electric fuel pumps are cheap for carb's and no need for return lines ,
but i have a few small questions .....

Trans cross member ? will the V8 M40D bolt up ?
i'm thinking its the same length just a diff bell housing .
that would help with the drive shaft .
hood clearance may be a prob , but i'm not afraid to cut a hole in the
hood for a V8 to poke out ..

I know a few of you have done V8 swaps on sport models
but i've not seen a carb/5-speed .

please teach me some stuff on here , i'm open to ideas .

Thankyou

 

[imp]

Ok people , i think my 2000 sport is about to pop the ohv 4.0 .
its a 5-speed model ..

I'm thinkin about a fast drop in swap ...
5.0 from a 2000 model , so i'll have the GTP heads ,
M40D from a 95 F-150 ,
V8 explorer radiator and exhaust , motor mounts
for the motor i'm thinking carb "edelbrock" with a air gap rpm intake ,
F303 cam and 1.7 roller rockers ,
DuraSpark distributer and run HEI .

If i go Carb-HEI i wont need to do all the wire crap , :scratch:
Electric fuel pumps are cheap for carb's and no need for return lines ,
but i have a few small questions .....

Trans cross member ? will the V8 M40D bolt up ?
i'm thinking its the same length just a diff bell housing .
that would help with the drive shaft .
hood clearance may be a prob , but i'm not afraid to cut a hole in the
hood for a V8 to poke out ..

I know a few of you have done V8 swaps on sport models
but i've not seen a carb/5-speed .

please teach me some stuff on here , i'm open to ideas .

Thankyou

If you're "thinkin" all those changes, and the thought of a crossmember not fitting is scaring you, I would be re-thinkin all those proposals.......imp

 

[pwrshft99]

Gt40P heads came out mid 96 i believe, while they are decent ANY aftermarket head will give a major increase in performance.

A carb swap might be cheap and even legal in your neck of the woods. Id still go efi. From drivabilty to economy its well worth the effort and not that much more expensive.

Get a swap harness from painless wiring, add sensors and a computer from 89-93 mustang 5.0 and your set. Nobody listens to me but thats going to be the easiest way to get an efi 5.0 up and running in a vehicle it didnt come with.

 

[srt_hubcap]

carb is just the easy way to go , and i prefer it , i do Not live in an emmision state .
not had cats on it in years ...
the engine i listed should put out around 280-300 hp ...
with the cam and intake ..
main thing i want to do is a carb , V8 , 5-speed , 2-door
should bolt in right ?

 

[Dan Whitaker]

should bolt in right ?

It is as far from bolt in as the earth is from the sun.

 

[srt_hubcap]

how so ?
everyone is just saying no its not
or no dont use that use this
what wont fit ?

 

[srt_hubcap]

i need to start collecting parts .
so if stuff dont fit , please tell me what wont fit .
the bell housing will fit in the tunnel .
Explorer V8 motor mounts , radiator , and exhaust ...

 

[2000StreetRod]

No PCM?

You said in your initial post that you're going to use a 5.0L from a 2000 (Explorer?) but not use fuel injection. Are you planning to retain the PCM and make it work with a carb? What intake manifold will you use? What distributor will you use?

 

[safn1949]

Ah yes,the joys of carbs.Lousy mileage and drivability,don't even think about offroading on anything but flat,smooth ground and winter start ups with a choke.Oh and say hello to 10mpg.

Yea buddy,I miss that....Anyway,it is not a bolt in deal and you will have to do a bunch of fabricating to make it work,motor mounts,tranny mounts and crossmember,clutch linkage perhaps,exhaust will be fun.New drive shafts,what will you use for a transfer case? You will have to cut the floor for the transfer case linkage.Clearance issues under the vehicle with the tranny and transfer case and so on.

 

[imp]

You said in your initial post that you're going to use a 5.0L from a 2000 (Explorer?) but not use fuel injection. Are you planning to retain the PCM and make it work with a carb? What intake manifold will you use? What distributor will you use?

If a carburetor is mandatory, then you will need to address the question above, regarding a distributor. Explorers w/5.0L engines had no distributor, so if you expect to NOT use electronic ignition, no PCM, you will need an old-fashioned 302 engine distributor with ignition points. To work well, the vacuum advance will need to be hooked up, unless you can find a REALLY RARE 289 High Performance distributor from a '65-'66 Mustang which used NO VACUUM ADVANCE, and had DUAL-POINTS. The next issue going this route will be the distributor drive gear, which will be eaten away quickly if used with a late-model camshaft; you will need to get a late-model Mustang distributor gear, which is made of steel, instead of cast iron. Don't forget to install an ignition resistor, to avoid overheating and burning up the ignition coil.

OR, go the alternative route, using either: 1. An early EFI distributor from early 90s Mustang, with the attached TFI module (engine will not run without the TFI- it feeds computer crankshaft position information, OR, a '95 Mustang distributor, which used a remotely-mounted TFI module. Either would get you ignition. This scheme would require an EEC-IV PCM. 2. OR, use the whole EFI set-up for the 2000 Explorer 5.0, namely the Crankshaft Position Sensor, PCM, ignition coil, MINUS the injectors and related fuel elements.

If this type of swapping is new for you, please be aware, you may have gray hair by the time you finish the project. imp

 

[pwrshft99]

If you did switch from coil packs to a distriboutor ignition, a distributor from an 85 Mustang GT would probably work.

The more expensive but easiest solution would be to purchase an MSD box and distributor and let it control all the timing advance.

 

[ragajungle]

If I were you i would find a wrecked 1999 -2000 v8 mountaineer or explorer as a donor truck (you'll spend a fortune buying everything separate)... This way you can use it as a point of reference for the stuff you'll have to fab - I'd say GO FOR IT! a Sport v8 is the way they should've come

 

[srt_hubcap]

If a carburetor is mandatory, then you will need to address the question above, regarding a distributor. Explorers w/5.0L engines had no distributor, so if you expect to NOT use electronic ignition, no PCM, you will need an old-fashioned 302 engine distributor with ignition points. To work well, the vacuum advance will need to be hooked up, unless you can find a REALLY RARE 289 High Performance distributor from a '65-'66 Mustang which used NO VACUUM ADVANCE, and had DUAL-POINTS. The next issue going this route will be the distributor drive gear, which will be eaten away quickly if used with a late-model camshaft; you will need to get a late-model Mustang distributor gear, which is made of steel, instead of cast iron. Don't forget to install an ignition resistor, to avoid overheating and burning up the ignition coil.

OR, go the alternative route, using either: 1. An early EFI distributor from early 90s Mustang, with the attached TFI module (engine will not run without the TFI- it feeds computer crankshaft position information, OR, a '95 Mustang distributor, which used a remotely-mounted TFI module. Either would get you ignition. This scheme would require an EEC-IV PCM. 2. OR, use the whole EFI set-up for the 2000 Explorer 5.0, namely the Crankshaft Position Sensor, PCM, ignition coil, MINUS the injectors and related fuel elements.

If this type of swapping is new for you, please be aware, you may have gray hair by the time you finish the project. imp

im going to use a dura spark distributer as i stated in my first post ...
84 down i think , don't quote me on the year , but it will work with
a chevy HEI control module .
im swapping cams , so it wont be no trouble with distributer .
also i stated using a edelbrock rpm air-gap intake with a 600cfm ..

the motor isn't the prob , i'm wondering what i need to fab for it ...

 

[srt_hubcap]

Ah yes,the joys of carbs.Lousy mileage and drivability,don't even think about offroading on anything but flat,smooth ground and winter start ups with a choke.Oh and say hello to 10mpg.

Yea buddy,I miss that....Anyway,it is not a bolt in deal and you will have to do a bunch of fabricating to make it work,motor mounts,tranny mounts and crossmember,clutch linkage perhaps,exhaust will be fun.New drive shafts,what will you use for a transfer case? You will have to cut the floor for the transfer case linkage.Clearance issues under the vehicle with the tranny and transfer case and so on.

its a 2WD so no off roading . at the moment its getting bad MPG's no no harm there , i got a 4 banger that gets 12mpg ...
motor mounts from a v8 model should bolt in , as should the trans mount .
im using the same kind of 5-speed just a diff bellhousing on it .
no transfer case . already got a clutch linkage . exhaust from the v8 model
will bolt in , oh , where i live it hasnt snowed in 12 years , so cold isnt a prob .

keep the posts coming , i'm learning more daily .
i'm going to start grabbing parts from U-Pull-it this week end coming up

 

[2000StreetRod]

No PCM will require some wiring changes

im going to use a dura spark distributer as i stated in my first post ...
84 down i think , don't quote me on the year , but it will work with
a chevy HEI control module .
im swapping cams , so it wont be no trouble with distributer .
also i stated using a edelbrock rpm air-gap intake with a 600cfm ..

the motor isn't the prob , i'm wondering what i need to fab for it ...

Sorry, I overlooked that in your first post. I must have been blinded by the red ink. There will be numerous minor wiring changes required. The wiring associated with any PCM function that you still need (i.e. fuel pump control) will have to be reworked. Also, some of your instrument panel indicators may not be compatible with the sending units (i.e. engine coolant temperature) available for the replacement intake manifold. I have the wiring diagrams for your model and will be glad to help.

 

[2000StreetRod]

engine wiring harness

I started looking at the wiring diagrams for the 2000 OHV. If fuel injection and ignition control is eliminated there are not that many functions left that connect to the PCM. It may be preferable to retain the main engine connector C115 that connects to the battery junction box. Don't destroy the engine wiring harness when you remove it since it may be useful to build the new harness that will connect to your ignition system and coolant temperature sender. The oil pressure switch for the OHV and the V8 are in similar locations which is helpful. Also, the A/C compressor clutch switch are in similar locations on both engines.

One important signal that may be a problem is the tachometer drive signal that is generated by the PCM. Most of the other instrument cluster signals such as fuel gauge, speedometer, voltmeter, charge indicator and oil pressure do not appear to need the PCM.

Another PCM generated signal that you probably don't care about controls the EGR system.

The 4 wheel anti-lock brake system module is connected to the PCM but I think it may have stand alone capability.

I don't know what your feelings are about PATS but I doubt that it can be made functional.

 

[srt_hubcap]

I started looking at the wiring diagrams for the 2000 OHV. If fuel injection and ignition control is eliminated there are not that many functions left that connect to the PCM. It may be preferable to retain the main engine connector C115 that connects to the battery junction box. Don't destroy the engine wiring harness when you remove it since it may be useful to build the new harness that will connect to your ignition system and coolant temperature sender. The oil pressure switch for the OHV and the V8 are in similar locations which is helpful. Also, the A/C compressor clutch switch are in similar locations on both engines.

One important signal that may be a problem is the tachometer drive signal that is generated by the PCM. Most of the other instrument cluster signals such as fuel gauge, speedometer, voltmeter, charge indicator and oil pressure do not appear to need the PCM.

Another PCM generated signal that you probably don't care about controls the EGR system.

The 4 wheel anti-lock brake system module is connected to the PCM but I think it may have stand alone capability.

I don't know what your feelings are about PATS but I doubt that it can be made functional.

2000StreetRod , thankyou so much ....
that is the kind of talk i need to hear
as for the ABS the light has been on for years , lol
the A/C and oil pressure switch info helps alot ....
has anyone done a V8 5-speed 2-door ???

 

[2000StreetRod]

V8/5 speed stick uncommon

Since no Explorer Sport came stock with a V8 engine they are uncommon. Since no Explorer came stock with a V8 and a stick transmission they are uncommon. Most Sport V8 conversions retain the 4R70W transmission. Since the PCM is required to shift the 4R70W the fuel injection is normally retained. Therefore, there are only a few street Sports with V8 and stick and I'm not aware of any street Sports that are not fuel injected. Most people want the performance and fuel economy that comes with fuel injection. Many people have to worry about meeting emission requirements.

You're probably aware that the stock V8 exhaust manifold is an unusual and rather low performance design. The left one is shown in the photo below.

I believe that Torque Monster is the only manufacturer of bolt-on headers for the Explorer 5.0L. The left one is shown in the photo below. TM headers are expensive and also rather unusual but members that have them say the performance improvement makes them worth the money.

 

[Dan Whitaker]

Something else that will need to be addressed is the throttle cable. You will have to modify your existing one or have a custom one made.

 

[srt_hubcap]

Ok sorry for the long wait but somehow the 4.0 is still ticking .
I have found a 5.8 351w roller , and was just wondering ,
Once i drill out the gt40p heads for the larger "head bolt" ,
Will the accessories from a 5.0 explorer fit the 351 ?
I have alot of the parts for the v8 swap so far ie 5 speed
with v8 bell housing , v8 radiator , motor mounts , manifold to
muffler exhaust , and a 600cfm edelbrock .
So as soon as this motor pops i'm hoping to have this ready ,
I still need to source the front accessories and brackets , also
still need a brake booster off a v8 model .