V8BoatBuilder's Off Road Buildup: Spring 2008

Here are my plans for my 1997 Mountaineer V8, and the official buildup thread.

The Goal: Fitting Interco TrXus MT 33x12.5R15 with style and offroad prowess.

The Plan:
Front Suspention: Superlift 4"
Rear Suspention: SOA, stock springs, warrior shackles.
Rear Axle: Originally belonging to IZwack, it's a 1998 with 4.56 gears and SOA perches. Limited Slip.
Front Axle: 1995 Explorer, with Central Axle Disconnect. Being regeared to 4.56. Open, perhaps an Aussie Locker.

New tire mounted on rear axle:

New 33" TrXus MTs vs 31" BFG ATs:

 

[V8BoatBuilder]

The wonders of the explorerforum search function:

Found this image, taken by CDW6212R in this thread: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=200060

Looks exactly like the Superlift bracket receiver. Now, Can I just buy the wear pad... and then scrape any kevlar off my current adjusters (although I bet most of its gone!!)

And then found this:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=159065

According to Section525, the Ford P/N is: F87A 5B334 BA

 

[V8BoatBuilder]

...And ordered.

New part #, 6L5Z5B335AA, $14.36/ea + S/H from FastPartsNetwork.com

Progress for 3/27/08
1) Dropped off front axle at shop to be regeared
2) Inventoried lift components
3) Figured out torsion bar isolator hooie...

My plan is to begin the swap on April 6th, after wheeling on the 5th.

 

[V8BoatBuilder]

New question for everyone:

When I do the SOA, can I ditch the stock ubolt plates/shock mounts and go for something thinner/sleeker? Recommendations where to buy them, and new u-bolts?

 

[MountaineerGreen]

My suggestion: go SOA with your stock plates and u bolts to make sure it is what you want.

I bought this for over $100

More info here:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=193740&page=6

But, since the SOA was too high, I took it all apart to re work the leaf springs. Since I had a hard time cutting the Grade 8 ubolts, when I ran the nuts off, I messed up the treads on both the ubolts and nuts. I still have the perches and plates though.

 

[V8BoatBuilder]

Updates!!

Have all parts in hand (I think...) including the new isolators, and a regeared front diff.

Today I started pulling everything apart in the front, but got stalled because it started raining and I seem to have lost my axle nut socket.

Will post pictures later.

 

[MountaineerGreen]

Aaron, I installed my new shocks today and discovered why they are such a good deal. They have the shorter stems but longer body- the bottom of the body is really, really close to the CV axles, but they do not touch on mine. The weird thing is, the ones they are selling are the ones listed in the superllift parts list on the install sheet. I checked their web site, they have a different number now, I think instead of a "0" it ends in a "1" now, all other numbers are the same.

If they rub, you can add a spacer under the bar pin, even 3/8" would be enough to make them clear.

 

[V8BoatBuilder]

More parts ordered, and unique part numbers for those interested.

For my front drive shaft hybrid, I needed a new 1310 Double Cardan (CV) to flange yoke, which turned out to be Dana Spicer #:211229x. More available is the Precision part, #627. Rockauto had it in stock and cheapest, for $56.99. 3 New Precision #280 (1310, Greaseable, Super Strength) u joints are also on order.

 

[V8BoatBuilder]

Rip that IFS out!!!

Best helper ever:

Lots of paint pen so I know how to put it back together:

Pass side stock knuckle, LCA, t bar:

Diffy Down:

All Out:

It looks good!!! So tempting to take a grinder to the rest of it and go buy myself a Rubicon D44 and just SAS the darn thing.

And many thanks to Evan for Fedexing me my new front driveshaft, a new incarnation in the 4406 shaft swap saga.

Even though the balljoints and tie rod ends are recent MOOGs, they all need new boots and might need replacing

 

[MountaineerGreen]

I my Moog outer TRE boots ripped, it removed them and put on universal boots. I have the part number of the ones I want at the shop if you are interested. Btw, when you put your superlift knuckles on, fit your dust shields on, find where the TRE touches, dent or grind that area away, it will rip your boots if you don't. Been there, done that.

Ohh, I checked, and Rubicon 44's are 5 on 5" now wheels won't fit.

 

[V8BoatBuilder]

I my Moog outer TRE boots ripped, it removed them and put on universal boots. I have the part number of the ones I want at the shop if you are interested. Btw, when you put your superlift knuckles on, fit your dust shields on, find where the TRE touches, dent or grind that area away, it will rip your boots if you don't. Been there, done that.

Ohh, I checked, and Rubicon 44's are 5 on 5" now wheels won't fit.

Good tip about the TRE boots. I found Energy suspension ones at autozone for a few bucks!

As for my Rubicon plans, the old ones were 5 on 4.5, and should be coming into the junkyards. But that is still too much fab for me at this time.

I would like to get some extended brakelines, rather than bending my hardlines, any thoughts?

 

[MountaineerGreen]

Good tip about the TRE boots. I found Energy suspension ones at autozone for a few bucks!

As for my Rubicon plans, the old ones were 5 on 4.5, and should be coming into the junkyards. But that is still too much fab for me at this time.

I would like to get some extended brakelines, rather than bending my hardlines, any thoughts?

I've found rubicon 44 axles on ebay occasionally, with factory air lockers. One auction was a set front and rear, went for around $1500.

I don't have a picture, but I pulled my hard line down, covered it with a piece of thick 1/4" vac hose where it touched the shock tower. I didn't have the superlift bracket, mine is just a bit lower down on the frame, secured with a self drilling screw. No problems even at full extension where I broke CV axles. (that's a whole other story)

BTW: if you don't have limit straps, call superlift they will send you some no charge, supposedly. I still need to call them about that....

 

[V8BoatBuilder]

BTW: if you don't have limit straps, call superlift they will send you some no charge, supposedly. I still need to call them about that....

Please explain... I haven't heard about this...

 

[MountaineerGreen]

Well, appearently some people running Superlifts were hyper extending their CV axles separating them. If you were to buy a new kit from superlift it would include limit straps. It's only a rumor, but I've heard you can call them and they will send you a pair for nothing. I really need to do that, that was a small part of the problems I had at Moab.

 

[CDW6212R]

Interesting, new fun parts, I hope it all goes smoothly. I've got new parts to just rebuild my high mileage front end. Only the spindles, TB's, axles, and brakes will remain of my suspension. Have fun and take more pictures.

 

[big351bronc]

I'm interesed to see how this turns out... Good Luck!

BTW - If you are still looking for stock shackles, I think I still have mine at my parents house from my 1997 Explorer - just let me know!

 

[V8BoatBuilder]

Well, poop.

Good news:
I found a shop near me who will make me new stainless flex brake lines while I wait for $40/each.

Bad news:
While removing the rear hose, the hardline sheared about 1" behind the coupler. A few Qs:

1) Is the brake hardline on the rear of the 4 wheel abs trucks 3/16 with double flare?
2) Any tips on putting a new end on the hardline? Where is the closest break/coupler in that line?

 

[CDW6212R]

Do you mean that the line end on the steel bracket? If so then you can get at that line a it extends out beyond the frame. Remove the line bracket to get it away from the brake line, and yes it does have to have a double flare. Find a short length of brake/fuel line at a store with ends that you need. Just as Evan did, purposefully get the line a little long, and place two bends in it for avoiding stress.

Take your time with the double flaring, it needs to be perfect to not leak. I have spliced two entire pairs of rear brake lines together for a 95 Crown Vic. I added 4 wheel ABS to it from about $200 in parts from other cars. Good luck,

 

[V8BoatBuilder]

It's that spot exactly.

I was able to remove the bracket (by sawzalling the bumpstop) and then cutting the tube back with a tubing cutter, after unwinding and cutting the protective coil around the line.

I then did the double flare, and it's holding under no pressure. It was a royal PITA, as the brake fluid was dripping out the tube while I was working!!

We'll see how it is under pressure.

 

[CDW6212R]

That sounds great, you do have the have the advantage of extra line to work with. I had to cut my four line ends exactly to length, I joined them in the middle of the car on the straight section.

I recently double flared my trans lines on my 99 so that I could avoid hose clamps. Working around the radiator with them was no fun. Regards,

 

[V8BoatBuilder]

Interesting observation while installing the front diff with the superlift brackets:

The pinion angle is drastically changed!

The front drop brackets drop the diff 3.5", but the rear mount only drops the diff less than 2". That's why the CV driveshaft is so necessary, because the pinion is now pointing at the t-case, rather than parallel to the t-case.