V8BoatBuilder's Off Road Buildup: Spring 2008 | Page 4 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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V8BoatBuilder's Off Road Buildup: Spring 2008

Here are my plans for my 1997 Mountaineer V8, and the official buildup thread.

The Goal: Fitting Interco TrXus MT 33x12.5R15 with style and offroad prowess.

The Plan:
Front Suspention: Superlift 4"
Rear Suspention: SOA, stock springs, warrior shackles.
Rear Axle: Originally belonging to IZwack, it's a 1998 with 4.56 gears and SOA perches. Limited Slip.
Front Axle: 1995 Explorer, with Central Axle Disconnect. Being regeared to 4.56. Open, perhaps an Aussie Locker.

New tire mounted on rear axle:
RearTire1.jpg


New 33" TrXus MTs vs 31" BFG ATs:
Tire-Comparison01.jpg
 



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Not sure on the exact problem but I think I reflared mine when I did the axle swap. So I'd say cut and redo.
 

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Interesting green plastic cover, I chose clear for mine and they don't look very good after a year. I'll see about black for the next lines I have made.

Aaron I would think hard about using something besides the double flare connections for brake lines. I haven't had a lot of experience with compression fittings, I believe that they have a much lower working pressure. If at all possible I would try again on the flared end. Is it the shortness of the line still, or th space to work in? Can you make a couple of test connections on spare brake lines, I did that before doing my four Crown Vic ends?
 












Brake line woes...

So my double-flare on the rear line didn't come out too hot, and I can't get a good seal. I'm hesitant to cut more off, and try again.

My thought is to use a 3/16" compression union to join the existing hardline to a peice of new hardline with a factory double flare, like the following picture I yoinked from a VW site.

Anyone see a problem with this?

It's illegal here...

Try to do the double flare again. I believe it is far stronger than the compression fitting.
 






Not sure on the exact problem but I think I reflared mine when I did the axle swap. So I'd say cut and redo.


IZ - it looks like you're running the rear line unsupported, notice any downside to not running the bracket?
 






IZ - it looks like you're running the rear line unsupported, notice any downside to not running the bracket?
No havent noticed any downside -- the brake line is supported elsewhere upstream.
 






Nothing is easy... it seems as though one of the two vacuum solenoids for the front axle disconnect is broken :( anyone have a used, working one they want to get rid of?
 






For me the hardest part of doing the double flare connections is getting the line to stay in place in the tool. Spend extra time lining the tool up and obtaining maximum leverage on the line. The line must not move when the force is applied to it.
 






For me the hardest part of doing the double flare connections is getting the line to stay in place in the tool. Spend extra time lining the tool up and obtaining maximum leverage on the line. The line must not move when the force is applied to it.

My clamp stayed in place, but the flare was off-center :(
 






Yes, there is a great deal of pressure on the line and the flaring tool. I have borrowed my friends' kit, and one adapter size is broken. That's a tool that needs to be of top quality, no cheap China crap like from Harbor Freight.
 






Yes, a quality flare tool costs some pretty serious coin, but the cheap ones just don't cut it. I've seen some compression fittings hold under extreme pressure- properly installed of course. Your rusty lines may pose a problem in that area.
 






I agree, that is usually the issue, the lines need to be a very snug fit(and smooth) inside the compression fitting.
 






I will play the oddball role tonight and raise my hands and state that all the flares on my Explorer were done with the HarborFreight tool ;). I think the key is practice, practice and practice. Prep also goes a long way and I used the grinder with a wire-wheel if the lines are dirty/rusty because the "double" part of the flare must be as dead-on center as possible.
 






Ditto, prepping the end of the line is big. I don't have a kit yet myself, I haven't needed one very often. That is the kind of tool that you should invest in a top quality if it will be used more than once. I don't avoid cheap tools for one time or unimportant uses, most of my first tools were like that.
 






Well it seems like I should go try under the truck again, I mean, worst case is that I just run a new hardline...

I'm using the Autozone loan-a-tool flare kit, it seems pretty new. But we all know about the quality of Autozone parts! The boot on my new $32 lower ball joint doesn't even fit right! :rolleyes:
 






Thoughts on those "one-man brake bleeders" with the built-in check valve?

Seem like a great idea, do they work?
 






I have them on all four corners of mine. They work great- I just attach some clear hose and stick it in a bottle. I got them because I often find myself working alone, its far easier than calling my wife to come out and help. ;)
 






The front is 99% done!!! Tires are back on and she's sitting on her own weight. I also had her running today enough to turn her around an begin the rear.

I definitley need a limit strap on the passenger side, the superlift shocks allow the suspention to droop enough to completely bind the CV. Driver's side is OK.

The rear axle is out, add-a-leafs removed! I ended up cutting off the spring bolts, I need to get new ones tomorrow.
 






Pics are a few days old, but this is an exciting batch:

Back on 4 wheels (for about 10 min only):
FrontLiftOnly01.jpg


FrontLiftOnly02.jpg


Driver's side spindle completed:
DriverSpindleDone01.jpg


Passenger's side spindle completed:
PassSpindleDone01.jpg


Rear axle out:
RearAxleOut01.jpg
 



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I really love how the Superlift protects everything upfront that used to hang below the frame and skidplates. The torsion bar drop brackets might be a hangup pain, but the protection will be superb.
 






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