Vertical play in front lower ball joint, bad?

[masospaghetti]

@CDW212R

As you probably know, MOOG won't sell you JUST a boot...

I find this to be such as scam, in my experience a really high percentage of ball joints and tie rod ends are fine and just need to be re-booted. (My current case is quite a surprise to me, ball joint is bad but the boot is still ok!) Good to know the poly boots are a feasible alternative.

 

[masospaghetti]

If you haven't sent the old one back yet, get your return shipping label from Rock. I have found it to be much cheaper that way.

Yep! I just found out that they will provide a discounted label. Much cheaper than sending it retail.

 

[J$hort]

Learned my lesson long ago. For suspension parts and wheel hubs/bearings it is Moog/National or Timken. There is just too much labor that goes into replacing these components. The longevity of the part will outweigh cost and time having to replace several times in the same time span.

 

[masospaghetti]

So, conclusion to this story:

Rockauto accepted the return back with no questions. I had to pay the discounted return shipping (about $14). Not bad. Separating the torsion rod from the arm was a pain due to corrosion but otherwise the job was pretty straight forward.

The ball joint in the new arm looks fairly generic, arm is made in Taiwan, guessing the ball joint is something like a Mevotech.

The new arm did NOT solve the popping noise. The popping noise turned out to be a loose driver's upper control arm bolt. But, the lower arm was bad and I am glad it is replaced.

On reassembly I found the upper control arm and tie rod end on the passenger side, both Moogs, both with ripped boots. I warrantied both out with Rockauto with no problems.

 

[collinstm57]

Re-Torque after a period of time. Didn't realize this needed to be done but after 10 - 15 K most of mine were a little loose...

Especially the steering joints.

 

[masospaghetti]

Re-Torque after a period of time. Didn't realize this needed to be done but after 10 - 15 K most of mine were a little loose...

Especially the steering joints.

Also for those with the adjustable camber bolts, the kit comes with some standard looking washers. The washer placement is important - there is a wrong way and and right way.

The washers go between the cam plate and the frame, not under the bolt/nut head.

The reason for this is that the washer acts as a spacer since the frame isn't 100% flat. Without it the cam plate itself will distort when torqued down. Ask me how I know....

 

[C420sailor]

Also for those with the adjustable camber bolts, the kit comes with some standard looking washers. The washer placement is important - there is a wrong way and and right way.

The washers go between the cam plate and the frame, not under the bolt/nut head.

The reason for this is that the washer acts as a spacer since the frame isn't 100% flat. Without it the cam plate itself will distort when torqued down. Ask me how I know....

Correct. It’s very counterintuitive.