Volvo 850 turbo wagon diversion

[2000StreetRod]

Replacement vacuum pump

A few days ago I made an offer for a vacuum pump posted on eBay. I was pleased to learn that the seller accepted my offer and it was shipped today.

The camshaft timing exercise is temporarily on hold. I decided to spend a few days attempting to fabricate my own camshaft timing tool. I've learned that the Volvo transverse inline 5 cylinder engine is not that difficult to work on and I rather enjoy working on a DOHC again. The engine seems prone to overheating and blowing the head gasket in both the turbo and non-turbo vehicles. Because of the special tools and extensive labor required to replace the head gasket and retime the camshafts many owners cannot justify the expense on a vehicle worth only $2,500 to $4,000 in good condition. Consequently, they are sold as is for $1,000 or less. This provides me an opportunity to buy, repair and sell the vehicle and make a profit to spend on my pet project (the Sport). Having a camshaft timing tool will speed up the repair process and provide better timing accuracy. I'm hoping to build one that will work with the engine installed or removed from the vehicle.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Camshafts timed

Shown below is my makeshift camshaft timing tool fabricated from 1 1/2 inch x 1/8 inch thick aluminum angle stock.

Below is a photo of the tool in use.

The thickness of the timing slot is greater than the thickness of the aluminum blade so the blade must be pushed downward on the intake cam and pushed upward on the exhaust cam. The aluminum blade is not strong enough to position the cam. It is only used as a reference. Using the tool I was able to time the camshafts fairly accurately.

My next task is to reinstall the starter, tie the throttle plate wide open, disable the ignition and the fuel pump and check the compression of all of the cylinders.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Need battery

I installed the starter, disconnected the power to the ignition coil, removed the fuel pump fuse and connected the battery after it had been on a small charger for about three days. When I turned the ignition key to run absolutely nothing happened. Not one instrument or indicator displayed. The battery voltage measured about 3 volts and I noticed the date on the battery was 2007. So I disconnected the battery and connected my Husky booster pack that was not fully charged. This time every worked normally at ignition On except the fuel pump didn't run. The engine cranked very slowly considering no plugs were installed and only the compression gauge was connected. I was able to read sporadic compression (55 to 95 psi) on cylinders 1 thru 4 before the Husky was too weak for the starter to crank. There seems to be excessive engine friction for a 2.3 liter engine with an 8.5:1 compression ratio. There may be rust on the cylinder walls so tomorrow I'll drop a small amount of oil in each plug opening and crank the engine over numerous times with my torque wrench to see if the friction decreases. I guess it's time to buy a battery even though I can't seem to find one on sale.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Puzzled and concerned

This morning I drove to WalMart and purchased a new group 47 battery. The battery that was in the vehicle was the wrong group, the wrong size and of meager capacity. The specified capacity is 590 cold cranking amps and the dead battery was only rated for 350 CCA. It was so narrow that it did not reach the mounting plates and was basically just loose sitting on the battery tray. The new battery is held down by the mounting plates on three sides but I couldn't find the hold down clamp for the forth side in the box of parts.

The photo below shows the #1 TDC marks I made for future reference. I dimpled the bolt with a punch and then scratched a line on the balancer with an awl. Then I applied white out to the marks so they would show up easily.

Now I'll be able to check the ignition timing with a strobe light.

When I attempted to wire the throttle plate control wide open I noted there was binding in the linkage at about midway and the throttle plate will not achieve WOT as shown below at its maximum.

I'll rework the linkage for more plate deflection once I get the engine running.

The photo below of the battery tray shows a broken vacuum hose that the old battery was sitting on. I suspect this is the hose that connects the cruise control to the vacuum pump.

Until I squirted oil in each cylinder it took more than 35 ft-lbs to rotate the crankshaft with no plugs. After several rotations the required torque dropped below 25 ft-lbs so I started taking compression readings using the starter. The more I cranked the better they got until I reached the numbers below.
#1=172 #2=190 #3=160 #4=152 #5=156
The specified range is 156 to 185 psi.
I added some more oil to #5 to see if it would increase and the pressure dropped to 60 psi. At first I feared I had added too much oil and blown the head gasket. But then realized that an extremely high pressure should have registered on the gauge. Then I wondered if the camshaft timing had slipped since the bolts that hold the sprockets are only torqued to 15 ft-lbs. But a quick check using my TDC mark and the camshaft slots indicated the timing was still correct. Other possible explanations are the battery was weak and cranking too slowly, the O ring on the compression gauge fitting was damaged and leaking, a valve quit seating (broken valve spring or sticking valve), or a piston compression ring broke. I ran out of time to investigate. I hooked the trickle charger to the new battery. Tomorrow I'll purchase a new O ring for the compression fitting and continue investigating.

 

[Joe Dirt]

Still waiting, Dale...

 

[2000StreetRod]

Forging ahead

After installing a new O ring on the compression gauge fitting and recharging the battery the compression on cylinder #5 was still only 75 psi. Compression testing is most reliable on a warm engine and I don't want to pull the head until I've run the engine. One low compression cylinder should not be enough to prevent the engine from starting and running so I decided to forge ahead.

Since three of the plugs had cracked insulators I purchased five new Autolite AP3923 platinum center electrode plugs. I changed the pregap from .045 to .028 inches, applied antiseize to the threads and torqued them to 18 ft-lbs.

I removed most of the arc deposits from the inside of the distributor cap and installed it. I measured the resistance of the coil to cap wire and then installed it leaving the plug wires connected to the distributor but not to the plugs. I connected the electrical power connector to the coil and proceeded to test for spark at the plugs. I installed an inexpensive inline spark tester between plug #1 and it's wire and cranked the engine. The light stayed unlit indicating no spark. Thinking the never before used inline spark tester might be defective I hooked up my old strobe light and tested the #5 wire. Once again there was no indication of a spark. I suspected the DI Power Stage that drives the coil was bad so I measured the voltage across the primary winding. It was zero so I measured the voltage and resistance of the inputs to the driver module and they were normal. The resistance of the coil primary was normal but the driver module output was open (bad). A new aftermarket ignition module/coil is about $160 but I found a used one on eBay for $10 plus $10 for shipping. I just bought it this morning.

For the next few days while I'm waiting for the part to arrive I'll straighten bent support brackets, replace broken vacuum hoses and electrical connectors and sort thru my box of parts to determine where they go. I need to find some detailed photos of an assembled engine to use as a reference.

 

[Joe Dirt]

Good Lord this thing was a mess!!

 

[2000StreetRod]

Still no spark

Because of a very unusual snow storm here in Upstate South Carolina there was no mail this week until Thursday and it included my eBay special ignition module. I tested it today and unfortunately the output module was blown just like the one on the vehicle. Since the seller has no other we mutually agreed on a coolant reservoir level sensor as a fair substitute. I was lucky enough to purchase a new (never used) ignition module on eBay this afternoon for $35 with free shipping.

I have finished replacing the broken electrical connectors and replaced or reinforced many of the engine compartment wire looms. The intake tubing has been reinstalled and the vacuum lines are all connected. I still need to drain the engine coolant and add water and flush. When the new ignition module arrives if there is spark then I'll connect the wires to the plugs, enable the fuel pump and try and start the engine. I added a bottle of Heet to the fuel tank a while back in case there was water in the tank. If the engine starts then I'll add engine flush to the crankcase, restart the engine and let it run until it warms up. Then I'll perform another compression test.

While I'm waiting for the ignition module I'll raise the rear of the vehicle and inspect the exhaust system. If its in decent shape I'll start trying to install the cat and muffler heat shields that were in the box of parts.

There's also an ATF leak that I need to check. I hope it can be fixed without pulling the transmission.

 

[Joe Dirt]

Plugging along...

 

[2000StreetRod]

Wiring looms & battery acid repair

Here's some photos of the wiring after I replaced or reinforced the looms.

Here's a photo of the area below the battery after I removed the corrosion, primed and painted the area.

The battery tray with replacement cruise control vacuum pump mounted underneath and the battery are now installed. I've also temporarily installed all of the air hoses and tubes in preparation for attempting to start the engine when my second ignition module replacement arrives.

 

[Joe Dirt]

Getting closer...

 

[2000StreetRod]

Finally have spark!

I read the DTCs and found defective TPS circuit. I removed the throttle body and the TPS tested OK with my ohmmeter but the TPS reference voltage from the ECU was only 1.0 volt. I then measured the voltages on the MAF sensor and IAC valve and they were all 0 volts. While reviewing the wiring diagram I learned that the 12 volts to the ECU, fuel injectors and numerous sensors are enabled by the fuel control main relay that is separate from the fuel pump relay. I found that the relay was not fully connected. After connecting the relay I now have spark on #2 cylinder which has my inline spark tester installed. Tomorrow I'll hook everything up and try to start the engine.

 

[Joe Dirt]

Nice, Dale! I would have never had the patience for this one... You're a marvel.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Engine runs on starting fluid!

With the fuel control main relay properly connected the TPS reference voltage is 5.5 volts, and there is battery voltage at the IAC valve and MAF sensor connectors. I hooked up the hoses and electrical connectors, opened the throttle plate, sprayed starting fluid into the intake manifold and then installed the main air intake hose. I cranked the starter and the engine fired immediately and ran for a couple seconds. I sprayed in more starting fluid and the engine ran again for several seconds.

I confirmed the fuel pump was running for several seconds each time I cycled the ignition switch from Off to Run. When I removed the fuel filler cap there was a very strong odor of lacquer. I removed the Schrader valve cap on the fuel rail and depressed the release. There was very little pressure. Next I disconnected the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail and connected my hand vacuum pump. The regulator held 25 inches of vacuum. I disconnected the fuel supply line at the fuel rail and attached one end of flexible fuel and fed the other end into an empty milk jug. It takes 20 cycles of the ignition for the fuel pump to eliminate 1 gallon from the tank. There were about 9 gallons of noncombustable fuel in the tank and I now have 3 remaining.

Tomorrow I will purchase about 5 gallons of fresh fuel, a bottle of Techron fuel injector cleaner, a fuel filter and an air filter. I will finish draining the tank, replace the fuel filter and air filter, add 1 gallon of fresh fuel and the Techron to the tank and try again to run the engine. I suspect that the fuel pressure regulator diaphragm may have been stuck from sitting for more than a year. I hope the high vacuum from the hand pump broke it loose.

 

[Joe Dirt]

F'n A... Way to go, Dale... Almost there!

 

[EMG7895]

To empty the tank, jumper the fuel pump relay to keep the pump on, if its easily accesible.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Good idea

To empty the tank, jumper the fuel pump relay to keep the pump on, if its easily accesible.

That's a good idea and I thought about doing just that but that relay is not readily accessible. Also, I want to build my confidence in the vehicle. In the 200 times I cycled the ignition the pump has run every time.

A used space saving spare tire/wheel, jack, lug wrench and tool kit I found on eBay were shipped yesterday. Today I picked up my two used Bridgestone Potenza RE-960 high speed (91W) rated tires that I had mounted. I have a pair of new lift cartridges for the tailgate to install. If the compression comes up on cylinder #5 after the engine runs a while then I should have the wagon ready to sell in a month. I've pulled the wheels and checked the brake pads and they're OK. I still have to check out the transmission and fix the leak. I also have some cable dressing to do on the main wiring harness near the ECU.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Replaced fuel filter

To empty the tank, jumper the fuel pump relay to keep the pump on, if its easily accesible.

Today I took your advice. I removed the fuse box cover in the engine compartment and then removed the fuel pump relay and jumpered the main contacts. I ended up pumping out about 5 gallons before the tank was dry. Then I replaced the fuel filter. The old one was difficult to remove. I suspect it has been in use for many years. The fuel filter replacement mileage in the Volvo owner's manual is 100,000 miles. I think that is excessive! I prefer every 30,000 miles. I think the fuel pump will last longer with more frequent filter replacement. I'll cut the old filter open to examine it when I get more time.

I poured two gallons of fresh fuel in the tank and a bottle of Techron fuel injector cleaner. I ran the pump until the fresh fuel reached the fuel rail and then I reconnected the fuel supply line to the rail. The engine readily starts and runs on starting fluid but will not start or run on fuel. Possible problem sources are clogged injectors, low fuel pressure, injectors not being activated, defective IAC valve, and defective MAF sensor. Tomorrow I'll clean the MAF sensor, IAC valve and throttle body. I'll also test the fuel pressure regulator.

 

[Joe Dirt]

Dale, I admire your persistence and tact- I would have put a jack handle through the front right fender already.

 

[2000StreetRod]

The "fun" continues

Today I let the fuel pump run for about twenty seconds and then cranked the engine. It fired and started to run and then stopped like it ran out of fuel. I removed the throttle linkage and connected my fuel pressure gauge to the Schrader valve. When I turned on the ignition the gauge jumped to 3 psi and then dropped back to zero even though the pump was still running. Using my hand vacuum pump I varied the vacuum to the fuel pressure regulator which made no difference. Then I cut the fuel return line hose near the fuel rail since I couldn't get it off and blocked it with a bolt. The pressure gauge still read 0 psi with the pump running. I have had problems in the past getting an accurate reading with a Schrader valve. I couldn't find my valve core remover so I will buy one tomorrow, remove the core and check the pressure again. Either the gauge reading was invalid, the fuel pump strainer is clogged, or the fuel pump is shot even though it runs.

Some people enjoy solving crossword puzzles. Others enjoy assembling jigsaw puzzles. I happen to enjoy automotive electro-mechanical puzzles but I limit my "fun" to two hours of hands-on per day.