Volvo 850 turbo wagon diversion

[2000StreetRod]

While watching for a 2000 V8 Explorer for a double powertrain swap with my 2000 Sport I happened upon a 1996 Volvo turbo wagon for sale. There's 167,000 miles on the odometer and the exterior and interior (leather with all factory options) are in very good condition. The engine stopped running about 1 1/2 years ago and it was worked on by a non-Volvo mechanic over a six month period. After $600 of unsuccessful repair expenses the owner just parked it. It's been sitting for about a year. The battery is dead but the engine cranks with a booster pack connected. The oil on the dipstick is clean with no signs of water. The power windows all work using the booster pack. There is still tread on the tires but they will need to be replaced. I bought it for $825 plus another $50 to have it delivered tomorrow.

The first Volvo I owned was a 1960 PV-544 two door fastback. The second one was a 1974 142E two door sedan which I bored 10% and rebuilt along with a custom analog fuel injection controller that could vary the stock mixture from 10% lean to 25% rich in real time from the front seat. The next Volvos were a 1983 DL and a 1987 740 that I purchased new. Later I bought my daughter a used 1986 DL for her freshman year in college. It has been 13 years since I've owned a Volvo so I'm looking forward to the challenge of troubleshooting and repairing my first front wheel drive, DOHC, turbo powered one. Since Ford owned Volvo for more than 10 years I guess I haven't strayed too far from the flock.

 

[sport97]

Good luck on it Do you plan to keep it or fix and sell it?

 

[2000StreetRod]

Fix and sell

I plan to fix it, clean it up and then sell it. I realized this year after driving two rental cars while on vacation that my 64 year old knees can't take the strain of getting in and out of low vehicles. Also, I prefer the increased visibility of sitting higher when driving. It looks like from now on all of my long term personal use vehicles will be mid-size SUVs.

Here are some photos of the Volvo 850 after it rolled off the trailer it was transported on.

The paint is oxidized from sitting for more than a year with no attention. I will wash the exterior before rolling the wagon into the garage for repair. That way I can work on the exterior if I have to wait on parts I order.

The leather is very dry but is in pretty good condition considering the age of the vehicle.

The lift gate will not stay up so I used my walking stick to prop it in place. Initially, I will only spend money on getting the engine running. The space saving spare is shredded. There is no jack or lug wrench.

 

[2000StreetRod]

DOHC timing

Here's a photo of the engine compartment. The missing components are supposed to be in the cardboard box that was in the vehicle.

According to the previous owner a shade tree mechanic with no Volvo experience replaced the head gasket, timing belt and tensioner among other things. My first action will be to check the camshaft timing. Since the 850 has an inteference engine I won't even try to crank it until I am certain the camshaft timing is correct. The previous owner stated he cranked the engine with a booster pack a few days before I bought the Volvo. The turbo engine only has an 8.5:1 compression ratio so if the timing is not too far off there shouldn't be any damage to the valves.

The "front" of the engine is on the passenger side so I will have to move things I have against the garage wall to have room to work. Access to the engine "front" is thru the passenger wheel well.

 

[Joe Dirt]

Nice find Dale... Hope it ends up being one of those stupid simple things that you stumble across while searching the engine bay... Those 850 turbo wagons are really nice cars, they get decent money too...

 

[2000StreetRod]

Obd ii

Today was a sunny day so I washed the Volvo (and my wife's Highlander), moved some things out of the garage and pushed the 850 into it's spot. One reason I bought the vehicle was I knew that all passenger cars sold in the U.S. after Jan 1, 1996 had to be OBD II compliant. I assumed the diagnostic capability would be helpful isolating problem sources. I checked the battery voltage with my voltmeter and the reading was 0.86 volts. Hoping that there still might be DTCs retained in the EEC memory I hooked my charger to the battery. After a little while I got my Actron code reader in preparation to reading the DTCs. Unfortunately, I couldn't find a port to hook up to. I searched thru the owner's manual but there was no mention of a diagnostic port. From an internet search I learned that the port is located under the coin holder in front of the shift lever. I hooked up the reader, turned the ignition key to On and was pleased to hear the fuel pump run for a few seconds. All of the instrument indicators illuminated so it appears that the EEC is functional. The 850 has daytime running lights that come on when the key is in run. The parking and license plate lights also come on. I was able to read the stored DTCs before the power drain overheated my old battery charger and it shut down. The only set DTC was P0500, vehicle speed sensor A malfunction. There were no pending DTCs. I'll pull the fuses for the lights so next time I'll have more time to run off the charger. I assume the battery is a lost cause but I don't want to buy another until I find out more about the engine or there is a battery sale.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Incorrect cam timing

An informal check of the camshaft timing revealed it to be about 20 degrees off. I pulled all of the spark plugs so I could detect interference when rotating the crankshaft by hand. I don't have a 30mm socket so I had to use my 15 inch crescent wrench on the balancer retaining bolt. I inserted a socket extension in the #1 plug hole as indicated by the white arrows in the photo below and watched the end rise and fall as I rotated the crank.

After determining TDC I found the factory timing marks on the camshaft sprockets as indicated by the red lines. I compared them to the alignment notches as indicated by the green lines. The camshafts are about two sprocket teeth off which is about 20 crankshaft degrees. The blue lines identify 10 degrees on the crankshaft timing scale. Note the two washers under the bottom intake camshaft sprocket (right in photo) bolt.

Since the head gasket was replaced by the shade tree mechanic I was concerned that the camshaft sprockets might be mounted one bolt to bolt spacing (120 camshaft degrees) off. To eliminate the possibility I removed the distributor cap, rotor and backing plate. The rear (driver side) of the intake camshaft is shown below.

The part number is stamped on the end. Since it ends in "I" it is the intake camshaft and not the exhaust which ends in "E". The alignment slot is above the axis of the camshaft which is correct but the slot (indicated by the red line) is not parallel to the intersection of the upper and lower head sections (indicated by green line).

Other things I've found at this point:
1. Heater hose at firewall resting on turbo exhaust side and would have melted if engine had started.
2. Electrical wires to vapor management valve corroded and broken. Vacuum port broken.
3. Broken spark plug boot on #1 cylinder.
4. Radiator fan shroud not in proper place leaving a 3/4 inch gap at the top on both sides.
5. Vacuum hose lines very brittle and broken or disconnected at several locations.
6. Heads on camshaft position sensor retaining bolts almost stripped. The next thing to remove to check exhaust camshaft timing.
7. The spark plug electrodes indicate the engine has never run with them but the rest of the plug indicates they have been in the engine for quite a while.

It is understandable why this engine did not start after the head gasket, timing belt and tensioner was replaced. I am glad it didn't because there might have been valve damage if it had. I hope I can retime the camshafts without removing the crankshaft balancer. It is a pain working thru the wheel well.

 

[Joe Dirt]

I'll bet it's running by the middle of the week, assuming the weekend' will be taken off... If not, it's running by Sunday.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Finding TDC

Thanks for the vote of confidence Joe but I limit my time working on my vehicles to 2 hours per day. That way my hobby doesn't become a drudgery and my wife doesn't feel like I'm neglecting her.

The photo below of the IAC valve shows how the twist in the hose has caused it to collapse possibly blocking air flow.

I removed the intake camshaft sprocket retaining bolt with the two washers under it and one from the exhaust camshaft sprocket for comparison. The one with the washers was longer and the same length as the bolts securing the upper section of the head. As you can see in the photo below one of the head bolts was missing.

I installed the head bolt where it goes in the head and I'll purchase one of the correct length and strength for the camshaft sprocket.

Accurately determing TDC is extremely important to establish correct camshaft timing. There is a crankshaft timing mark on the oil pump housing as indicated by the yellow arrow in the photo below that I found on the internet.

The red arrow points to a minute notch in the inner edge of the crankshaft gear groove that I have yet to be able to detect.

There is also a timing mark on the crankshaft balancer inner hub that is almost impossible to see with the crankshaft balancer installed.

I tried rotating the crankshaft back and forth in an attempt to find TDC by watching the socket extension but the balancer retaining nut came loose. It obviously wasn't torqued to specification. I may fabricate a crude manometer to find TDC since I don't have a measurement gauge with a dial indicator. First I'll try once more to use the TDC marks on the balancer and oil pump.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Decided to remove the starter

Last night I decided to remove the starter and everything above it for several reasons. The fan shroud is improperly mounted to the radiator. Intercooler hoses are incorrectly routed causing restriction and abrasion and improperly secured. Electrical components are not adequately secured. Vacuum hoses are brittle, broken, disconnected and incorrectly routed. There is an access hole in the block behind the starter motor that allows insertion of a special tool when the crankshaft is rotated for #1 piston at TDC. The tool prevents the crankshaft from rotating counterclockwise but not clockwise. Apparently another special tool engages the exposed ring gear teeth on the flexplate to keep the crankshaft from rotating clockwise. I don't plan to purchase the tool set which I've read costs about $500.

Removing the throttle body, intercooler tubes, cooling fan and shroud, vacuum lines, etc. will be a lot of work and time consuming labeling and photographing everything for reassembly but will eliminate a lot of unknowns and greatly increase engine reliability. It will also enable me to verify the crankshaft position, time the camshafts the same way the factory does, and torque the balancer retaining nut to the specified 133 ft-lbs. One advantage of being retired and fixing cars as a hobby is I have the time to learn the correct procedures and to implement them. Today I will purchase a 30mm axle nut socket so I can quit using my 15 inch crescent wrench to rotate the crankshaft.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Unknown component

The red arrow in the photo below identifies a yet to be determined component that was laying loose on the maze of hoses. It has a vacuum port that connects to a vacuum splitter on the intake manifold and another vacuum port that is broken that connects somewhere in deep in the maze. There are also two more ports that connect one section of the component to another section. It also has a three wire electrical connector with badly corroded connections (one is broken). I think it might be the purge valve for the fuel vapor from the fuel tank but it doesn't look like the ones I've found on line.

The yellow arrow identifies a partially collapsed hose that is routed incorrectly. The green arrow pointing below the IAC valve identifies what I believe is the starter solenoid mounted on top of the starter motor.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Vacuum pump

I removed the mysterious component and cleaned it enough to read a part number. I then searched the internet for it and found several for sale on eBay. It's a vacuum pump that's used in conjunction with the cruise control.

Apparently the same part is used on the 740s as well as the 850 turbos. For now I'll just cap the port for it on the intake manifold.

It looks like I'll have to remove the intake manifold in order to remove the starter and have room to work. I believe that requires draining some of the engine coolant. It's probably a good idea to check the coolant condition anyway considering the poor condition of the vacuum and electrical system.

 

[Joe Dirt]

Dale, your detail is amazing...

 

[2000StreetRod]

Intake can stay in!

After removing a lot of tubing and the electric cooling fan with shroud it appears that the intake manifold will not have to be removed to remove the starter as identified with the blue arrow in the photo below.

There was a cover on the starter solenoid and after prying it off the electrical connections were revealed (green arrow). I purchased a 30mm axle nut socket from AutoZone but as expected neither AutoZone or Advanced Auto had the M7, 1.0, 30mm bolt for the camshaft sprocket. I'll have to go to a fastener specialty shop for that.

Tomorrow I hope to get the starter removed and come up with a substitute for the special tool that keeps the crankshaft from rotating counterclockwise.

I learned in the Owners Guide that there is a small set screw below the headlight/parking light switch that disables the DRL. Nice touch! Worked great.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Starter removed

I unsuccessfully searched the internet for the needed camshaft sprocket bolt so this morning I drove to the local fastener specialty shop. I was able to pick up a couple with the correct thread, length and strength ($0.25 each) but not with the flange. Since I could not find an online Volvo dealer anywhere in the U.S. I drove to the local Volvo dealer. As I expected, there were none of the bolts in stock. I paid the $2.86 for one bolt which hopefully will arrive Thursday. It's no wonder that vehicles sit in the shop so long to be repaired when parts are not kept in stock.

The red arrow in the photo below identifies the location of the lower bolt that mounts the starter. To get it out I had to remove all of the bolts that mount the engine wiring harness.

The green arrow identifies the plug that requires a 8mm hex bit to remove. I removed the plug and poked in the hole with a phillips screw driver. I used my new 30mm axle nut socket and a 1/2 drive to rotate the crankshaft slightly clockwise. Then I was able to insert a larger diameter tapered punch in the hole. I continued making slight rotations until I was able to insert a 3/8 inch 3 inch long drive extension with very little clearance with the crankshaft (see below).

I then shined a very bright flashlight on the oil pump timing mark and was pleased to detect the nick at the bottom of the groove in the crankshaft gear aligned with the mark. I did a quick check of the camshaft slots and was relieved to find that the intake camshaft is almost dead on and the exhaust camshaft is only a few degrees off.

The extension only keeps the crankshaft rotating counterclockwise. Tomorrow I will attempt to fabricate a "tool" to keep the crankshaft from rotating clockwise so I can torque the balancer nut.

 

[Joe Dirt]

This is a fun thread... Enjoying watching the process, Dale!

 

[2000StreetRod]

counterhold 999 5433

Volvo uses a special tool (counterhold 999 5433) that looks similar to the one in the photo below to hold the balancer from turning when tightening the balancer nut.

I searched the internet for one and finally found a "discount" Volvo dealer that sells parts and tools online. The MSRP for the tool is $44.81 and the actual cost is $58.21. They must be in high demand due to extremely limited availability. I doubt at my age I'm strong enough to hold the special tool with one hand and the torque wrench with the other hand while torquing the nut to 130 ft-lbs. There is very limited access to the balancer thru the wheel well without removing the entire inner fender and that will take a lot of time. Also, I don't want to spend the money nor wait for the tool to be shipped from Texas.

I don't like the idea of jamming something between the ring gear teeth and the bellhousing to keep the crank from rotating. The teeth are currently in good condition and I don't want to mess them up which might cause the starter to hang on the flexplate.

While waiting for the inspiration of an innovative solution I'll torque to specification the 40 bolts that secure the upper section of the head.

 

[Joe Dirt]

I have a buddy that works for Volvo in Sweden- he makes the doors for the sedans and wagons... Give me a tool list!

 

[2000StreetRod]

Inexpensive crankshaft holder

After spending a little time thinking I realized that my trusty chain could be used to prevent the crankshaft from rotating as I tightened the balancer nut. I removed one of the four balancer bolts that turned out to be M8-1.25x30mm. I bought a package of four M8-1.25x40mm hex flanged cap screws from AutoZone for $2.29 plus tax. I found my chain that I had used on my Sport to hold things, a coupling and some washers. The final configuration of the holding "tool" is shown below.

The lower part of the chain is wrapped around the aft section of the lower control arm and secured with a coupling. The link at the other end of the chain has five washers below and one washer above with a bolt passing thru it all.

My torque wrench happened to be set at 60 ft-lbs so I tried that first. Since there was no problem I increased the torque setting to 100 ft-lbs and torqued the nut. At the final specified setting of 133 ft-lbs I had to grab the front section of the control arm with one hand to pull against while holding the torque wrench in the other hand but managed to achieve the task. The chain should also work when loosening the balancer nut by placing the bolt/chain link on the opposite side of the balancer.

I removed the chain tool, reinstalled the original balancer bolt and torqued them all to specification. I then torqued all of the bolts securing the upper section of the head.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Camshaft alignment

Pictured below is the Volvo tool used to align the camshafts once the crankshaft is at TDC for piston #1.

Because the axis of the camshafts are below the top of the engine compartment it is very difficult to check the alignment visually. I decided the most accurate way is to take photos with the camera lens aligned with the axis of the camshaft. Below is a photo of the intake camshaft timing slot.

It appears to me that the bottom of the slot is very close to being perfectly aligned with the seam between the upper and lower sections of the head. In the photo below of the exhaust camshaft I did not have the camera lens in the correct position but it looked like a slight counterclockwise rotation was needed.

I loosened the camshaft sprocket bolts and the camshaft rotated on its own due to the pressure on the lobes from compressed valve springs.

It will take patience to set it right without the tool but I should be able to get it within one or two degrees.