Water pump failure leads to dead engine | Page 47 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Water pump failure leads to dead engine

Should Ford cover part of all of this repair out of loyalty?

  • Yes, a water pump failure at 95k should not destroy an engine

    Votes: 153 87.4%
  • No, and please quit whining about it

    Votes: 22 12.6%

  • Total voters
    175
Glad to see you got it repaired and are happy with the results Mike. Given the number of engines that had to be replaced because of the leak, I just wonder why you waited so long?

Peter

Waited this long because I've got two other vehicles to drive, so decided to just be cautious and park it till I could get it fixed. Also, had 2100 other reasons for waiting.
 



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Ford offers it when you buy the parts through them and get it installed there or a legit repair shop. 2 years parts and labor. I know I'm/ my customers are covered at my small repair shop. You are NOT covered if you buy it wholesale online from what I've seen or if you install it yourself.
Is this just regarding the water pump or any Ford motorcraft part? If they don't cover the part (not labor) for 2 years just because a DIY'er does it then I'm done with motorcraft.
 






Never mind just read the motorcraft warrant summary and as long as the part was sold (over the counter) by an authorized ford or lincoln dealer then it is covered if the customer shows original sales slip.
 






I was thinking of changing the original coolant on my 2011 XLT with 170k and see this thread as i was wondering if i should change the water pump.
i think i am just going to trade this in when i see drops of coolant. hopefully it will hit 200k before that.
 






I was thinking of changing the original coolant on my 2011 XLT with 170k and see this thread as i was wondering if i should change the water pump.
i think i am just going to trade this in when i see drops of coolant. hopefully it will hit 200k before that.

New member of the forum here... I cant tell you what to do, but I will tell you what I did

I bought my 2011 Explorer (limited) used at 55000 miles in 2016. By the end of 2017 I had another 15000 miles on it. Then I started using it for Uber. Two more years and it was at 210000 miles, That's when I learned about the water pump issue. I did a fair amount of reading, and U-Tube video watching and decided to do a preemptive replacement of the water-pump. And while they were in there; the oil pump, timing chain, guides and the front crank seal.

I expect (hope) to get at least another 100000 miles behind me, before another big repair job. Its too soon to tell whether my decision was a good one or not but Im happy I did it,
 






New member of the forum here... I cant tell you what to do, but I will tell you what I did

I bought my 2011 Explorer (limited) used at 55000 miles in 2016. By the end of 2017 I had another 15000 miles on it. Then I started using it for Uber. Two more years and it was at 210000 miles, That's when I learned about the water pump issue. I did a fair amount of reading, and U-Tube video watching and decided to do a preemptive replacement of the water-pump. And while they were in there; the oil pump, timing chain, guides and the front crank seal.

I expect (hope) to get at least another 100000 miles behind me, before another big repair job. Its too soon to tell whether my decision was a good one or not but Im happy I did it,

I think you did the right thing, what was the cost? Dealer or independent garage?
 






The 3.5/3.7 transverse V6s are the ones with the internal water pump (3.5 EcoBoost included). The 2.0, 2.3, 2.7, and 3.0 EcoBoost engines have external water pumps, whether used on longitudinal or transverse applications.

If you look at the CD3/CD4/D3/D4 architecture with the 3.5/3.7, the area where the external pump would be mounted would interfere with the chassis subframe. On the same architecture with the 2.7/3.0 EcoBoost (as an example), there is room between the external water pump and subframe.

The 3.5/3.7 used on longitudinal applications (like Mustang and F-series) have external water pumps.

Hindsight: I should have gone with the 2.3L EcoBoost AWD Explorer for 16-19. Different PTU design (one that doesn't overheat) and external water pump on the engine = better overall deal. I could then tune that 2.3 for more power, giving the same or better acceleration as a stock Explorer Sport but with much better gas mileage.
The older Lincoln continentals had Transverse mounted mark 8 32V DOHC engines. Water pump has just enough room to take out (the original one from 95 is still fine). I know it is a different platform but it is a terrible idea. The Lincoln also has a coolant level sensor in the tank. Goes off when the coolant drops below 3/4 with a beep. Wouldn't have been such a bad idea on a 40K+ explorer.
 






The older Lincoln continentals had Transverse mounted mark 8 32V DOHC engines. Water pump has just enough room to take out (the original one from 95 is still fine). I know it is a different platform but it is a terrible idea. The Lincoln also has a coolant level sensor in the tank. Goes off when the coolant drops below 3/4 with a beep. Wouldn't have been such a bad idea on a 40K+ explorer.

I had to change the original 205k mile water pump on the girlfriend's 2003 Grand Am 3.4 V6 GT1. I was expecting the worst, and it was by far the easiest water pump to change (under 30 minutes). It was spitting and slinging coolant around for a few thousand miles before it was replaced.
 






I think you did the right thing, what was the cost? Dealer or independent garage?

$2200 at an independent shop.
My financial calculation was different than most. A lot of folks would say that if the repair costs more than the car is worth, dont do it. I use this car to make money,. My questions were ,"do I have the money in my reserve fund?" and "how long will it take to refill that reserve fund?' I budget 5 cents per mile for repairs and maintenance and even with this, Im still operating within my budget
 






So I have been looking for the excel sheet with all the parts needed to do the water pump and timing chain/phasers? Anyone have that readily available?

Thanks
 






My dealer quoted me $ 2,835 ($1284 in parts, $1283 in labor, plus misc) to replace the water pump and all other internal timing components in my 2011 Explorer Limited with 178,000 miles on it. He said they might not need to replace everything on the quote but since visual inspection isn't aIways telling and given the mileage I should expect this amount. I am now trying to decide if I want to do this "preventative" repair or not...
 

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That's going to be a difficult decision. I believe most failures have occurred before members reached that mileage so you may be fortunate and not have a failure. Hard to say. There are others with high mileage Explorers that have not had the issue as well. Another thing to take into consideration is what sort of shape the vehicle is in regarding suspension parts, powertrain and body. Have you had or do you have the hood paint bubbling issue on the front edge?

Peter
 






That's going to be a difficult decision. I believe most failures have occurred before members reached that mileage so you may be fortunate and not have a failure. Hard to say. There are others with high mileage Explorers that have not had the issue as well. Another thing to take into consideration is what sort of shape the vehicle is in regarding suspension parts, powertrain and body. Have you had or do you have the hood paint bubbling issue on the front edge?

Peter

The vehicle is in really good shape otherwise, we have maintained it well over the years. I don't have the hood paint issue (but will verify that tonight), I do have a small issue with rust from inside the tailgate on the lower right edge near the drain hole. This has been an issue from within the first year of ownership. I just need to open the plug and spray some Fluid Film (or other rust preventative) in there and clean up the rust on the paint (again - been doing this every couple years). I am noticing small signs of rust down low on the inside of the doors, just early indications, but also something that will progress. There will be some needed suspension work coming up (6-12 months I suspect) as I am noticing roughness and hearing sounds that usually indicate that.

It is a crap shoot on a vehicle with this mileage though, I could spend the money and realize a month or year later that it needs another $3000 for something else. Damned if you do damned if you don't...sigh

Or I can just hope it lasts another year until I can buy that Bronco I want :)
 






The vehicle is in really good shape otherwise, we have maintained it well over the years. I don't have the hood paint issue (but will verify that tonight), I do have a small issue with rust from inside the tailgate on the lower right edge near the drain hole. This has been an issue from within the first year of ownership. I just need to open the plug and spray some Fluid Film (or other rust preventative) in there and clean up the rust on the paint (again - been doing this every couple years). I am noticing small signs of rust down low on the inside of the doors, just early indications, but also something that will progress. There will be some needed suspension work coming up (6-12 months I suspect) as I am noticing roughness and hearing sounds that usually indicate that.

It is a crap shoot on a vehicle with this mileage though, I could spend the money and realize a month or year later that it needs another $3000 for something else. Damned if you do damned if you don't...sigh

Or I can just hope it lasts another year until I can buy that Bronco I want :)

With 178K I would comfortably say you got your money's worth. At this point, imo, it's likely not worth investing that much in maintenance. I would drive that vehicle as long as I could get away with repairs/maintenance that are less then around $500. Tires maybe being the exception. Otherwise, I see that money being better spent on a down payment towards a newer/ lower mileage vehicle. Who knows, you might just be the guy that got a water pump that will last for 250K!! Enjoy the ride!
 






I agree. Don't spend 2k to 3k on something that may not happen. I just dumped the last 1k into my 2011. No more big bucks for my car. Mine is rusty in those places but did use wire wheel and POR 15 to clean it up. I guarantee your hood has corrosion but that can be masked by a 60 dollar bug guard.
 






My dealer quoted me $ 2,835 ($1284 in parts, $1283 in labor, plus misc) to replace the water pump and all other internal timing components in my 2011 Explorer Limited with 178,000 miles on it. He said they might not need to replace everything on the quote but since visual inspection isn't aIways telling and given the mileage I should expect this amount. I am now trying to decide if I want to do this "preventative" repair or not...
I would only replace the timing chain guides. This is what typically goes bad. The chains and sprockets in these engines are fairly robust. The guides shouldn't be all that costly.
 






I would only replace the timing chain guides. This is what typically goes bad. The chains and sprockets in these engines are fairly robust. The guides shouldn't be all that costly.
If he does that, he may as well replace the water pump since it is internal to the engine.

Peter
 






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If he does that, he may as well replace the water pump since it is internal to the engine.

Peter

Agreed, once they've done all the work to open it up why not replace all wear items in there.

PS: I am kind of leaning towards rolling the dice and waiting to see what happens as some have advised. I am not opposed to making it habit to inspect the dip stick...
 



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If he does that, he may as well replace the water pump since it is internal to the engine.

Peter
I am referring to the timing components only. I thought the pump being swap was not in question.
 






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