Welding lug nut stud

[Floridaexplorer43]

Not sure the hub can be removed from axle

 

[J_C]

^ Based on what? It went on. It comes off. A socket is probably in your future.

 

[Floridaexplorer43]

The mechanic shop was scared to remove axle nut due to threads.

 

[J_C]

Wire brush the exposed threads, spray a ton of penetrant on it, come back later and spray some more penetrant on it, and plan on needing a new nut.

A lot of this may still come back to needing to find a different mechanic.

 

[Floridaexplorer43]

Ok thanks

Wire brush the exposed threads, spray a ton of penetrant on it, come back later and spray some more penetrant on it, and plan on needing a new nut.

A lot of this may still come back to needing to find a different mechanic.

 

[imp]

I hesitate to give this suggestion because I don't know if the structural integrity would be compromised too much, but if forced to choose, I'd sooner drill new lug holes in the hub, between the existing holes, rather than welding studs, but to do that right you'll probably need a minimum of a modest sized drill press and a cobalt or harder bit of exactly the right size.

If you wanted to then weld-fill the old holes, you could do that too, but frankly it is a lot of work to try to get a small amount of additional life out of an old hub.

@J_C
New holes is a good suggestion, and I've done it using 1997 F-150 wheels, which are very close to 5 on 5.5", (actually are 5 on 135mm), 5 on 5.5 are actually 5 on 139.7mm. The metrics, 5 on 135mm, have straight-through holes, with no taper; the lug nuts have a straight shoulder snug fitting the straight holes, for alignment purposes.

I re-bored the holes using their original locations, but sized to fit 1/2" lugs through, then chamfered the oblon gated holes using a 45` milling cutter, and used tapered nuts like the old system. New holes would be better, ass you suggest, but the bolt dimensional circle must be accurately located to assure straight-running.

This is all easy if you have a Bridgeport milling machine. So, I have nice '97 alloy wheels on my 1990 F-150! imp

 

[Drewmcg]

Way too much work and risk to fool around with welds/drilling, in my opion, when replacing the hub is much more straightforward (and safe) repair. As someone else already mentioned, the old hub will likely fail somewhere between 130k-190k miles, anyway.

Buy a WJB HD hub from RockAuto if you're not willing to pay for a Timken (avoid Moog, IMHO). I've had good luck with 2 for 2 of the WJB HD hub's I've installed (and also with one Timken, but only a few thousand miles on that one).

 

[Floridaexplorer43]

Axle threads are so bad no one wants to remove nut

 

[J_C]

^ I find that highly doubtful. Worst case, threads get damaged so you'd simply get a new axle put on too. What are you going to do, junk the vehicle because it's unthinkable to put a new axle shaft on?

This is not at all a hard repair for any seasoned mechanic, or most DIYers with a fair amount of tools and experience. Put the penetrating oil on, let it soak, slap an impact wrench on with sufficient torque and one way or the other it is coming apart.

If there's rust, that is not anything new. Any region with rusted vehicles, means the mechanics have been dealing with it as long as they worked that region.

 

[Floridaexplorer43]

Going to drive until I cant .
I think a new or another rear end would be ideal but the northern salt took a toll.

 

[J_C]

It's a completely typical repair for any vehicle in the rust belt. Why you can't see that and just take it to a competent mechanic is beyond me. Unsubscribed.

 

[TechGuru]

 

[Floridaexplorer43]

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