What Brand Plugs and Wires? | Page 4 | Ford Explorer Forums

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What Brand Plugs and Wires?

What Plugs do you use??

  • Bosch

    Votes: 101 38.0%
  • Denso

    Votes: 3 1.1%
  • Motorcraft

    Votes: 130 48.9%
  • NGK

    Votes: 19 7.1%
  • Splitfire

    Votes: 13 4.9%

  • Total voters
    266
neignoff or somthing like that for the wires and bosch platniums for the plugs
 



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I use Bosch Plat plugs and wires. Have used the Bosch single plat flugs in all my cars over the years, never had a problem with them.

Any kind of +2 or +4 is just a waste of money, not to mention it makes your engine run hotter.

I remeber a HUGE discussion of this on another forum.

Lets look at the facts. How does energy/electricity flow? Path of least resistance right? So if you are running +2 or +4 and one of the ground electrodes is closer than the other(s) by just hundredths of an inch, it will tend to only fire on said electrode 99% of the time anyway. You can do the math.

P.O.
DMan446
 












Ok, I have a question. I have a '98 Ranger with a '99 Explorer engine, but it has the Aluminum GT-40X heads and ' 96 FMS headers. The local dealer has 96-97 5.0 wires for 56 bucks, but the '98-01 are 175!! What gives?? The only differences I know of between a '97 and '98 are the GT40-P heads and internal versus external egr.

Anyone know if a '96-97 wire will work on my truck?
 






Bordo9 said:
Just changed back to Motorcraft Double PLat. and OEM motorcraft wires. Had Bosch +4's but were having trouble with hesitation and stumbling at low RPM's. When I tookk out the +4's they were signs that they were running hotter than they should(what I've read about on other posts). Only had them in for 10K miles too. Not real happy with the $$ spent on them. Hope this solves my problem.

Bosch +4 no gap plugs SUCK. You cannot put them in any of the older GM cars. They cause hesitation and don't fire properly.
 






motorcraft plugs, autolite wires
 






EliteConcept said:
motorcraft plugs, autolite wires
Autolite doesn't make wires for '98 and newer V8s.
 












I wanted to let y'all know I got some custom wires from a company called wires4cars.com. They use Kingsborne as their manufacturer and they are awesome!! 62.00 w/ shipping 9 mm, 5 colors to choose from and they have baer wiring connectors that are used in Europe. The set fit perfectly and they throw in a small tube of dielectric grease. They also come with a LLT waranty.

I highly recomdend them.
 






OK, You'll like this question:

What difference do the plugs and wires make?
Any power difference?

Why should I change my wires & plugs every 50K?
I certainly have not done that before - in any vehicle.

Please inform me! :) :) :)
 






Well since two of my wires were open circuits and two others had frayed wires it made a lot of difference. It doesn't hesitate/stall when I step on the gas and it idles better.


HP difference, nope, wires can't make HP. These wires are 300ohms/foot.

As for every 50k, plugs are 100k items if they are platinum and wires should be replaced as needed.


Why do you sound like you have a chip on your shoulder?
 






No chips on my shoulders! I just did'nt know the advantage of changing the plugs and wires unless there was a noticiable problem.
I kinda wonder about some mods which seem pricey, but the return could be neglible.. But I'm new to the mod thing so I'm still learning :) :bounce: :burnout:

ie: If I'm not experiencing any problems with them, but haven't changed wires or plugs for over 100k, should I go and buy new wires and plugs???
 






I'm running Taylor 8mm Spiro Pro plug wires on my V8, powered by Accel coilpacks and firing Autolite copper plugs. Seems to work really well.
 






I've got Bosch Plat +2, and Jacobs Ultra Fit wires
 






Bosch wires, motorcrap plugs...
 






Autolite platinum plugs and Bosch wires. :exp:
 






Bosch Plat +4 with Bosch wires
 






Just tossed all my 10k Bosch +4's after waking up last Monday to a terrible, terrible idle(no other prior problems on my 190k EX, btw) For one reason or another, #2 plug decided to detonate its ceramic core and lodge what was left in between the 4 electrodes. What a waste of $30. Bah.

Back to my $1.09 Autolites. :frustrate
 






My plug wires are damn hard to remove. Is there a special tool needed? this is on a 2000 ohv v6...

68000 miles
 



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Shagnasty said:
My plug wires are damn hard to remove. Is there a special tool needed? this is on a 2000 ohv v6...

68000 miles

If you're going to replace the wires, just grab the boots with some channel locks and rock-n-roll. This may damage them, might not. Put a rag or some duct-tape around the pliers and it should be enough cushion. Autozone does sell a spark plug boot removal tool, but its nothing more than plastic pliers.

Use dielectric grease on the inside of the boots, and anti-sieze on the plug threads when you re-install.
 






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