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Ford Explorer Community - Maintenance - Modifications - Performance Upgrades - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street
Explorer Forum Covers the Explorer ST, Explorer Sport, Explorer Sport Trac, Lincoln Aviator, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Ford Aerostar
I use Bosch Plat plugs and wires. Have used the Bosch single plat flugs in all my cars over the years, never had a problem with them.
Any kind of +2 or +4 is just a waste of money, not to mention it makes your engine run hotter.
I remeber a HUGE discussion of this on another forum.
Lets look at the facts. How does energy/electricity flow? Path of least resistance right? So if you are running +2 or +4 and one of the ground electrodes is closer than the other(s) by just hundredths of an inch, it will tend to only fire on said electrode 99% of the time anyway. You can do the math.
Ok, I have a question. I have a '98 Ranger with a '99 Explorer engine, but it has the Aluminum GT-40X heads and ' 96 FMS headers. The local dealer has 96-97 5.0 wires for 56 bucks, but the '98-01 are 175!! What gives?? The only differences I know of between a '97 and '98 are the GT40-P heads and internal versus external egr.
Anyone know if a '96-97 wire will work on my truck?
Just changed back to Motorcraft Double PLat. and OEM motorcraft wires. Had Bosch +4's but were having trouble with hesitation and stumbling at low RPM's. When I tookk out the +4's they were signs that they were running hotter than they should(what I've read about on other posts). Only had them in for 10K miles too. Not real happy with the $$ spent on them. Hope this solves my problem.
I wanted to let y'all know I got some custom wires from a company called wires4cars.com. They use Kingsborne as their manufacturer and they are awesome!! 62.00 w/ shipping 9 mm, 5 colors to choose from and they have baer wiring connectors that are used in Europe. The set fit perfectly and they throw in a small tube of dielectric grease. They also come with a LLT waranty.
Well since two of my wires were open circuits and two others had frayed wires it made a lot of difference. It doesn't hesitate/stall when I step on the gas and it idles better.
HP difference, nope, wires can't make HP. These wires are 300ohms/foot.
As for every 50k, plugs are 100k items if they are platinum and wires should be replaced as needed.
Why do you sound like you have a chip on your shoulder?
No chips on my shoulders! I just did'nt know the advantage of changing the plugs and wires unless there was a noticiable problem.
I kinda wonder about some mods which seem pricey, but the return could be neglible.. But I'm new to the mod thing so I'm still learning
ie: If I'm not experiencing any problems with them, but haven't changed wires or plugs for over 100k, should I go and buy new wires and plugs???
Just tossed all my 10k Bosch +4's after waking up last Monday to a terrible, terrible idle(no other prior problems on my 190k EX, btw) For one reason or another, #2 plug decided to detonate its ceramic core and lodge what was left in between the 4 electrodes. What a waste of $30. Bah.
If you're going to replace the wires, just grab the boots with some channel locks and rock-n-roll. This may damage them, might not. Put a rag or some duct-tape around the pliers and it should be enough cushion. Autozone does sell a spark plug boot removal tool, but its nothing more than plastic pliers.
Use dielectric grease on the inside of the boots, and anti-sieze on the plug threads when you re-install.