What have I done

[frogallen]

Bought a $300 1998 Sport. 4.0 SOHC 2wd

Seller really did not know much about vehicle, only that it would not start.
Knew there could be an issue with the transmission. Willing to take that chance.

Well turns out it would start and run. After cleaning up the mess of vacuum lines and a totally plugged idle bypass hose. And I really really want to rip out that anti-theft. It's quite annoying.
But the sound. Oh dear Lord. The transmission sounds like one of those tree limb mulching machines. And the fluid stinks to high heaven.

And now it looks like a freeze plug is leaking.

But the thing I hate the worst. Rust. Found the hatch glass was loose and the rear side glass leaks, and the body side moldings. The entire back deck is toast. I hate rust. Mechanical I can get past, but rust... I really have to think on it.

So with that said. I can see that I can update the long block rather easily with a donor motor from a Mustang or such. What about the transmission. Do I just stick with the 5R55E from a 98 or is there an upgrade for that as well?

Before I get too much into it I am going to do the junkyard run to see if I can find a rear floor.

Rodney
Current Stable
2010 Ford Flex Ecoboost
2003 Crown Vic Sport
1995 Ford SC x2
1995 Ford Ranger
1995 Ford Explorer
1991 Ford Festiva

 

[MrQ]

Your stuck with the 5R or swap in an M5OD-R1 manual. That's it for the SOHC. Or you can can swap in a 5.0 V8 to get the 4R70W.

What is updated on a mustang long block (other than the fact that the cams are different)? If you are going to pull the engine I would just put in the updated timing chain guides rather than pull another engine.

What side of Houston you on?

 

[C420sailor]

I would overhaul a 5R if you like autos. You’re rolling the dice if you just throw a used one in.

The manual is a nice option, but you’ll need to accumulate a bunch of parts

 

[frogallen]

Your stuck with the 5R or swap in an M5OD-R1 manual. That's it for the SOHC. Or you can can swap in a 5.0 V8 to get the 4R70W.

What is updated on a mustang long block (other than the fact that the cams are different)? If you are going to pull the engine I would just put in the updated timing chain guides rather than pull another engine.

What side of Houston you on?

Yeah I have thought about doing a motor swap to a V8. But I get back to that rust.
Updated? well it's not 1998 mostly. But yea, the guides.
South. Clear Lake Area.

I would overhaul a 5R if you like autos. You’re rolling the dice if you just throw a used one in.

The manual is a nice option, but you’ll need to accumulate a bunch of parts

I'm really scared that the entire insides of this one are in the pan. It sounds really bad.
No manuals. Need to stick to the automatic.

 

[Deleted member 352605]

I would put maybe at most 2k into it... i hate rust too, but I dont have rust on my car so... yea... idk exactly what to say about rust, just for me, 2k max...

 

[XLTrunner]

Sure understand your hesitancy with the rust factor. It is a fact of life on most vehicles older than 8-10 yrs here in MN and is why so many vehicles end up in the JY prematurely as owners don't want to spend money repairing an eyesore. Fortunately, my Explorer was purchased and shipped to me 8 yrs ago from Phoenix and it's still rust free as I've avoided driving it in the winters. Thus, I probably wouldn't hesitate to drop $2500 on a tranny rebuild in light of the other repairs I've already done on it.

 

[C420sailor]

Rebuilding a tranny isn’t hard. You need a few specialized tools. The rest is really just following steps and attention to detail.

My first rebuild was done at a trans shop for $1800 (back in 2011). They’re closer to $2500 now I think. I’d have a hard time justifying that coin now that my Ex is north of 300k. But doing it myself? Sure. For me, getting it in/out is the worst part. Once it’s in the bench, that’s the fun part.

 

[Mbrooks420]

Rebuilding a tranny isn’t hard. You need a few specialized tools. The rest is really just following steps and attention to detail.

My first rebuild was done at a trans shop for $1800 (back in 2011). They’re closer to $2500 now I think. I’d have a hard time justifying that coin now that my Ex is north of 300k. But doing it myself? Sure. For me, getting it in/out is the worst part. Once it’s in the bench, that’s the fun part.

The 5r55e isn’t an easy transmission to rebuild. Even when rebuilt properly, they are anemic. I’d leave this one to the pros. I’d probably cut my losses and find a less rusty V8. You’re going to end up with a lot of money on something that’s already mostly rotten, has the ******* SOHC, a lame transmission, and will probably be a constant project.

 

[masospaghetti]

Is there a lot of rust everywhere? or just certain places?

 

[Mbrooks420]

Is there a lot of rust everywhere? or just certain places?

I’m guessing if the floor is rotted, it’s pretty bad everywhere. I’d see if you can stick a screwdriver through the rear of the frame near the shackles.

 

[94Eddie]

I’m guessing if the floor is rotted, it’s pretty bad everywhere. I’d see if you can stick a screwdriver through the rear of the frame near the shackles.

....and if it isn't it will likely be very soon.

 

[frogallen]

The rust is only on the rear cargo area. The carpet stayed wet so long that it glued itself to the floor.
I'll get a pic next light. And after cleaning it up today I'm not as ugh about it.

But the yards around here do not have many old Explorers any longer.

 

[frogallen]

It’s not too bad. Ha

 

[Mbrooks420]

Get the fork....

 

[Mr. Alligator]

Clean. Treat rust. Good primer and paint.

Check your rear cargo area panel glass seals. Probably not in good shape.

Bolt in a section of plywood.

Should be set for years.

Good luck.

 

[frogallen]

Clean. Treat rust. Good primer and paint.

Check your rear cargo area panel glass seals. Probably not in good shape.

Bolt in a section of plywood.

Should be set for years.

Good luck.

It was absolutely the cargo area glass. Drip Drip Drip.

But you can see the support under the floor is in good shape.

 

[W.C. Legere]

Have the same problem on my 96 Sport 2 Dr (leaky rear quarter windows. What's up with that?) but the rear cargo hatch floor is fine. On mine it's the lower rear quarter panels just behind the doors and the rockers on both sides. When I got this the whole rear bumper mount bracket system was shot and I basically pulled the rear bumper off by hand. After searching everywhere I was able to accumulate all the necessary OEM mount brackets, restored the bumper itself and used all grade 8 bolts for reassembly. I can now at least tow my boat but the crappy emergency break set up on the 8.8 rear disk breaks doesn't help much putting the boat in the water. As far as dumping money into a rusty vehicle it all comes down to what you can live with and what you want to do with yours. If it's going to be a cheap daily driver then (if you can find one) a used AT might be the way to go but as others have said here - it's a crap shoot as to what you're going to end up with. It's never fun or simple to replace or repair an auto trans. As far as the rear hatch floor is concerned I agree with a previous post - just clean it up, treat the rust, patch the holes as best you can then cover it up. I also have a 91 Jeep Cherokee 2 dr that has the same problem as yours on the rear floor. I used some of that sound deadening material over the patches to help seal it up then covered the area with a piece of carpet. I purchased this 96 with the intention of using it for an off-road toy so the rust didn't bother me. I paid $500 for it because the M5OD was hung in reverse. It cost $18 for a reverse lock out plate off E-Bay to fix it. (I got very lucky!) About $2K in suspension parts, lift kit, tires and wheels and a 12,000 pound custom winch install and I wheeled the thing for almost 3 years before I had any problems with it. Lost a transfer case shift motor a one hall effect sensor because apparently those thing really don't like water. Now my VSS doesn't work because the speedo ring in the BW-4405 is all worn out and is causing all kinds of issues. Nothing major but it's just a pain that the check engine light won't go out. Not sure it's even worth messing with at this point.

 

[frogallen]

I just bought the daughter a Mazda 3.

Now I have a Explorer to do something with. HA.

2 options I got.
- Continue cleaning it up. Fix the rust with fiberglass. And sell it with a note of bad trans. It's remarkably clean aside from paint and the busted console.
- I do have a 95 Ranger so maybe I'll swap the disc rear and a few other things. Sell others. Already had someone want the cats off it.
If I can make my money back I'll be good. I'm $447 in it right now.

Crazy thing. We went to Wallisville PnP (those in Houston know of this place) and there were 3 Sports. One was almost complete and in fine shape. Wasn't registered since 2016.
This was the one I was going to pull the rear floor out of. The frame bolts even came out without much trouble.

 

[frogallen]

Well I sold it.
I chickened out on the work.
Not really. I really just wasn’t going to have the time.

 

[koda2000]

Well I sold it.
I chickened out on the work.
Not really. I really just wasn’t going to have the time.

I think you've made the right decision in selling it. Anything can be repaired/restored with enough time and money, but not everything is worth the cost and effort. A rusty '98 SOHC Sport w/mechanical problems easily falls into the "not worth it" category. If someone offered me a pristine example for free I'd would probably say no thanks. Never again to the Ford SOHC engines. I've owned 3, all rust-free southern vehicles.

#1 '01 XLT blew up (timing chains) - scrapped
#2 '97 Sport had a rebuilt engine, but was otherwise worn out at near 300K - sold for $600
#3 '01 ST blew a head gasket and has a broken rear timing chain cassette - rebuilding now

By comparison, the 4 rust-free V8 Gen II Explorers/Mountaineers I've owned have been great vehicles. None has ever had engine or transmission problems. I still have 2 of them (which now have a combined 1/2 million miles+) that run/drive great. As long as I can still find parts and can work on them myself I will keep them on the road.