Okay, I'll try one more time and then quit. No that is not right. We confirmed that nine years ago.
I was hoping the prior link I provided, along the first answer by heathmo when he talked about seeing the LED light on his brown wire mod glow dimly when in 4 auto, would clarify that when in 4auto there is in fact some power sent to the front even without rear wheel slippage. It is not full power and with a stock setup you won't be able to tell it, but it is there.
That's where theory and reality diverge, and has also been explained repeatedly in the last 9 years...
Yes, the light glows, even in 4auto when stopped. However, the intensity of the light in a lighted switch for the BWM does not indicate the amount of power being sent to the front wheels; it's only an indication of the duty cycle of the transfer case clutch coil. In reality, we've seen that the front driveshaft is not linked to the rear when the TCCC is at minimum duty cycle. There also does not appear to be a significant (or perceivable) difference in the 'gray area' between minimum and maximum duty cycle when the system activates it in 4auto. In reality, the TCCC is either locked or unlocked, similar to the way the clutch on an AC compressor works.
So, while the light may glow dimly, it's not a direct indication of whether or not the case is locked. At any rate, when slippage starts, it's a nearly instantaneous (and automatic) application of 4 wheel drive... it's still not all wheel drive.
I have 35" tires and a front locker with the brown wire mod to disengage the power to the front. Do you know why I HAVE to have the brown wire mod? Because I can guarandamntee you that in 4auto on hard pavement, I can feel the front locker engaging. The only way it is engaging is because power is being routed to the front axle, even on dry hard pavement with no rear wheel slippage. I HAVE to turn off power via the brown wire mod to prevent my front locker from engaging while in 4auto.... while in 4auto it is a real struggle with my steering wheel fighting those big locked tires trying to push me straight through any turn. If 4auto was not sending on power to the front, there would be no need for me to turn it off. Once I flip the brown wire mod switch to disengage the transfer case, it drives normally as in 2wd.
Humor me: The next time you have the front end in the air, with the key off, spin the front driveshaft. Then, with the key on and engine idling(BWM LED glowing dimly) try to spin the front driveshaft. On mine, there was no discernable difference. i.e. I could still spin the front driveshaft by hand. That tells me that, at minimum duty cycle, there is no discernable force applied to the front shaft. I can't vouch for what yours is doing, having not been there to monitor the GEM PIDs while it's doing it, but I would wager a bet that the TOD relay is at something greater than minimum duty cycle when the locker engages, and that's why the BWM works to stop that from happening.
I suppose the bottom line is that it doesn't matter how it works and goes back to another point that I think shadowless was trying to make.... it can be treated as automatic so you don't have to worry about how it really works; that's the whole point. Just use it.
Agreed... but just because it works automatically still doesn't make it all wheel drive. Mechanically-speaking, it's not driving all the wheels. It drives the rear output and locks the front output to it if necessary and on-demand... just the way a part-time 4 wheel drive unit does, but with fancier controls. All wheel drive systems drive all four wheels all the time.... It's a different mechanical principle all together.