What is the best way to stop a stock suspension 2 door from bottoming out up front? | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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What is the best way to stop a stock suspension 2 door from bottoming out up front?

Justin_

Well-Known Member
Joined
March 30, 2020
Messages
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City, State
Missoula
Year, Model & Trim Level
98 2-DR Sport 4x4 4.10
Callsign
KJ7IKI
Hey guys, when I am running my 98 2 door around the mountains I sometimes end up with the front end up the truck bottoming out hard going over large bumps.

I haven't had any damage caused by that yet, but I know it can't be good. I would like to do something to try and make it a bit harder to bottom out and or a bit more gentle when it does.

Currently the suspension is at stock height, I have the softest torsion bars (can't remember the code) and I have bilstein shocks on it.

Where should I start? TT to give it more downward travel? Stiffer torsion bars? Something else?

Thanks guys
 



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A TT isn’t really going to help. I’d grab a set of bars that were a step heavier, and stiffer shocks.
 






Front bump stops still installed? Pics of front bump stop travel clearance?

Stiffer t-bars may help, but could be simple as using low profile bump stops.

10mm control arm stud holes must be enlarged to 3/8" for installation.
Didn't think to look there. Still stock. Went to take some photos and there doesn't seem to be a lot of clearance. Photo is on a fairly flat and level spot. CV axles look a bit bent up too. Maybe I should do a bit of a TT either way to level it out.

PXL_20210623_034116085.jpg
PXL_20210623_034100251.jpg
 






You need a shorter bump stop, either cut down the stock one, or buy a shorter aftermarket version. If you have some of the softest springs, you might be smart to swap to a stiffer pair of torsion bars. Lowering the truck and having soft bars, will end up with a lot of bottoming out until you help it in some ways.
 






Temporarily remove the bump stops with a 10mm socket and short extension. Drive SLOW over some speed bumps to see if it still bottoms out.
Stiffer t-bars would definitely make a difference, but for minimum $$$ these may do the trick. Right angle drill and a 3/8" bit is all you need to try.
Problem with cutting the stock rubber bump stops is there is solid metal about 1/2" down. A half inch may not be enough added clearance.

Doing a torsion twist is free and easy, but camber kits may need to be installed and a $100+ rear thrust alignment should be done after ride height is adjusted and dialed in.
 






Id crank the t-bars up and go for a ride. Tighten the drivers bolt up to the max, leave a solid 1/4" of threads left on the passenger side. This will still keep you in good parameters with the front end / cv angles. I think you've probably lost at least an inch of ride hight from sagging. Then after a drive use a tape measure to see where your at side to side and adjust the bolts accordingly. Then consider shackles + possibly 4dr leafs to lift up the back end to level it out.
 






Temporarily remove the bump stops with a 10mm socket and short extension. Drive SLOW over some speed bumps to see if it still bottoms out.
Stiffer t-bars would definitely make a difference, but for minimum $$$ these may do the trick. Right angle drill and a 3/8" bit is all you need to try.
Problem with cutting the stock rubber bump stops is there is solid metal about 1/2" down. A half inch may not be enough added clearance.

Doing a torsion twist is free and easy, but camber kits may need to be installed and a $100+ rear thrust alignment should be done after ride height is adjusted and dialed in.
It runs just fine on the road over speed bumps. Mainly I am looking at when I am offroading. If I get most the weight off the front axle when it comes back down it slams into the bump stops.


Ill probably try out a TT first, then look at new bars. Will be out of town for a week first though. Will definitely get an alignment afterwords.
 






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