What is this???

[ETHACK]

Just replaced SOHC motor, 2000 miles ago, and today I see oil puddle under front axle so I climb under and I see oil (taste tested) around this area, looks like to be coming from 1 or both of these bolt and I don't know what they are, so I don't want to try tightening them esp if high torque and snap heads off, so my question is what are these bolts, could this be my oil leak source, if so can I reasonably tighten them, is this common on SOHC. Again remann motor, and rest of engine appears oil tight, although I am by no means a mechanic, but I have felt all the gaskets for wetness and couldn't find any except here. Or could this just be where the oil is dripping from (low point), I can't see anything else up higher. Sorry about the pics I had already wiped down, but the bolt on left (1st pic) had oil drop hanging off it, and this is 1st thing in morning so engine sat all night. Any and all help/ideas are appreciated. TYIA!!!

 

[RickOTR]

There are seals or o-rings that go betwen the bolt and pan to keep it from leaking. Time to head to the Ford dealer if no one else has them. Search the forums for SOHC lower oil pan replacement.

 

[donalds]

Mine Looked like that was a front main seal leaking and trickling down
May want to look

 

[RickOTR]

Mine Looked like that was a front main seal leaking and trickling down
May want to look

True, mine was leaking like that before I replaced the timing chains. Fixed with the gasket kit I ordered. Difficult thing is, the fan has a way of blowing that leaking oil all over the place which makes it difficult to see where the leak is actually coming from.

 

[koda2000]

Those would be the 2 front-most engine cradle/upper oil pan bolts. Unless they're leaking don't mess with them. They have rubber coated washer seals under them. You're supposed to put a little sealant on between the washers and the cradle to prevent leaking. When I disassemble my engine those washer were very difficult to remove w/out destroying them, which wasn't a big deal as I had new replacements in my full lower engine gasket set. IDK if you can buy the washers/seals separately. Torque is not particularly high on the bolts, but there's a support sleeve/stand-off in the bolt holes they go into, which is supposed to be torqued to a few inch lbs. The sleeve supports the engine cradle against the crank shaft journals to prevent warping/breaking the aluminum cradle. The sleeves require a 7/16" Allen to loosen/tighten (a bolt with a jam nut will also work). Something to measure 27 inch pounds (my inch pound torque wrench starts at 50 inch pounds) is hard to come by, so I just estimated the torque on the sleeves. Worked out fine. Bolt torque in 2 steps - Step 1: 11 lb-ft, Step 2: 24 lb-ft. I used Permatex Ulta Black RTV under my seals.

 

[ETHACK]

Those would be the 2 front-most engine cradle/upper oil pan bolts. Unless they're leaking don't mess with them. They have rubber coated washer seals under them. You're supposed to put a little sealant on between the washers and the cradle to prevent leaking. When I disassemble my engine those washer were very difficult to remove w/out destroying them, which wasn't a big deal as I had new replacements in my full lower engine gasket set. IDK if you can buy the washers/seals separately. Torque is not particularly high on the bolts, but there's a support sleeve/stand-off in the bolt holes they go into, which is supposed to be torqued to a few inch lbs. The sleeve supports the engine cradle against the crank shaft journals to prevent warping/breaking the aluminum cradle. The sleeves require a 7/16" Allen to loosen/tighten (a bolt with a jam nut will also work). Something to measure 27 inch pounds (my inch pound torque wrench starts at 50 inch pounds) is hard to come by, so I just estimated the torque on the sleeves. Worked out fine. Bolt torque in 2 steps - Step 1: 11 lb-ft, Step 2: 24 lb-ft. I used Permatex Ulta Black RTV under my seals.

Ty everyone, I'm still unsure and the fan does blow it back, I can't see or feel anything around the front main, harmonic, upper and lower pan, not the oil pressure sensor either, it looks like the coolant line that goes to heater core is wet and right there is a wrap around the hose that is a fiber or sponge like, when I pulled the other motor and dis connected the PS lines fluid dripped down there maybe and it just now worked it's way down there??? Or the coolant line is leaking and run down to mix with the spilled fluid, I'm really at a loss on this one, seems that if the seal I'd feel/see some wetness at the gasket and I can't. I wiped it all down and so far today no drips, maybe old oil from oil filter spill over last change caught in a channel of some sort. I'm really stumped, I hope it's not the front seal, and TY for the advice on not trying to tighten the bolts, or at least not with replacements in hand. You guys on this forum are great and have helped me out ALOT! TY again. Will keep updating and maybe some other ideas/fixes.

 

[BTR]

Put some ATP AT-205 RE-SEAL in the oil. Drive it for a few thousand miles. Report back on the volume of the leak. Check Amazon for the re-seal.

 

[ETHACK]

Those would be the 2 front-most engine cradle/upper oil pan bolts. Unless they're leaking don't mess with them. They have rubber coated washer seals under them. You're supposed to put a little sealant on between the washers and the cradle to prevent leaking. When I disassemble my engine those washer were very difficult to remove w/out destroying them, which wasn't a big deal as I had new replacements in my full lower engine gasket set. IDK if you can buy the washers/seals separately. Torque is not particularly high on the bolts, but there's a support sleeve/stand-off in the bolt holes they go into, which is supposed to be torqued to a few inch lbs. The sleeve supports the engine cradle against the crank shaft journals to prevent warping/breaking the aluminum cradle. The sleeves require a 7/16" Allen to loosen/tighten (a bolt with a jam nut will also work). Something to measure 27 inch pounds (my inch pound torque wrench starts at 50 inch pounds) is hard to come by, so I just estimated the torque on the sleeves. Worked out fine. Bolt torque in 2 steps - Step 1: 11 lb-ft, Step 2: 24 lb-ft. I used Permatex Ulta Black RTV under my seals.

TY for the detail, it looks like that is the source, I have a trip 2500 miles this friday, is it alright to drive? Just keep eye on oil levels/pressure or should I take another vehicle? Outside that mechanically it seems sound, this is new to me, never saw this design before. Maybe a heavier oil for trip, again only about 1700-2000 miles on motor.

 

[ETHACK]

Those would be the 2 front-most engine cradle/upper oil pan bolts. Unless they're leaking don't mess with them. They have rubber coated washer seals under them. You're supposed to put a little sealant on between the washers and the cradle to prevent leaking. When I disassemble my engine those washer were very difficult to remove w/out destroying them, which wasn't a big deal as I had new replacements in my full lower engine gasket set. IDK if you can buy the washers/seals separately. Torque is not particularly high on the bolts, but there's a support sleeve/stand-off in the bolt holes they go into, which is supposed to be torqued to a few inch lbs. The sleeve supports the engine cradle against the crank shaft journals to prevent warping/breaking the aluminum cradle. The sleeves require a 7/16" Allen to loosen/tighten (a bolt with a jam nut will also work). Something to measure 27 inch pounds (my inch pound torque wrench starts at 50 inch pounds) is hard to come by, so I just estimated the torque on the sleeves. Worked out fine. Bolt torque in 2 steps - Step 1: 11 lb-ft, Step 2: 24 lb-ft. I used Permatex Ulta Black RTV under my seals.

So the bolts just drop out, do I need to break loose anything else or just remove bolts and replace with TQ settings/RTV?

 

[koda2000]

So the bolts just drop out, do I need to break loose anything else or just remove bolts and replace with TQ settings/RTV?

Yes the bolts will drop right out. Nothing else needs to touched. You will need new washer/seals and a small amount of RTV under the seal. I doubt very much you will be able to remove the old wash/seals without ruining them. As I said, my washer/seals where very stuck in their recesses. IIRC I had to use a torch to get them to come off.

 

[410Fortune]

to find leaks always follow the wetness to the highest spot.... dry and clean the area and then monitor
Sounds like it may have been residual from the engine change?
Is it still leaking?
Should be just fine to drive with just some drips

 

[koda2000]

to find leaks always follow the wetness to the highest spot.... dry and clean the area and then monitor
Sounds like it may have been residual from the engine change?
Is it still leaking?
Should be just fine to drive with just some drips

An old trick I've used is to clean off any existing oil from from the area of the suspected leak and get the area clean and dry. Then spray a dry powdered deodorant (like Arid Extra Dry) on the suspect area. Go for a drive and recheck the area. Where ever the oil is leaking from should be obvious.

 

[410Fortune]

oh heck yeah great tip!

 

[ETHACK]

An old trick I've used is to clean off any existing oil from from the area of the suspected leak and get the area clean and dry. Then spray a dry powdered deodorant (like Arid Extra Dry) on the suspect area. Go for a drive and recheck the area. Where ever the oil is leaking from should be obvious.

That sounds like a great trick TY!!! and will do!

 

[C420sailor]

Fantastic tip.

 

[ETHACK]

Checked it today and still leaking, is definitely from the passenger side bolt, checked torque and seems set, I had set at 25, and turned just a little past maybe 26 or 27 at most, was very ginger about it. Right now running 5w-30 per recommendation thinking of going to 10-40 if it keeps leaking or maybe 5-40 if I can find it in conventional, then at 5k will switch to synthetic. So we'll see thanks to all!!

 

[koda2000]

Checked it today and still leaking, is definitely from the passenger side bolt, checked torque and seems set, I had set at 25, and turned just a little past maybe 26 or 27 at most, was very ginger about it. Right now running 5w-30 per recommendation thinking of going to 10-40 if it keeps leaking or maybe 5-40 if I can find it in conventional, then at 5k will switch to synthetic. So we'll see thanks to all!!

Do not switch to 10W40 on a SOHC, even if you do it will still leak. The only way to fix it is to remove the bolt, replace the washer/seal with some RTV under it.

 

[BTR]

@koda2000 - Not using 10W40 makes sense to me. What do you think about using 5W20 full synthetic (might flow faster in older engines with restricted channels; might pump up the chain tensioner quicker)?

 

[donalds]

Nope 10 30

 

[koda2000]

@koda2000 - Not using 10W40 makes sense to me. What do you think about using 5W20 full synthetic (might flow faster in older engines with restricted channels; might pump up the chain tensioner quicker)?

I would not use 5W20 either. You don't understand how multi-viscosity oils work. The 5 weight is for starting the engine when cold. As the engine reaches operating temperature the oil viscosity changes to 20 weight (has to do with long-chain molecules) which is not recommended by Ford for the SOHC. It's too thin. I tried 0W30 full synthetic one winter thinking it might allow oil to pump up the hydraulic tensioners quicker. It didn't make any difference, but it was considered safe to use in place of the 5W30. On my freshly rebuilt SOHC I running Mobil 1 5W30 full synthetic, a WIX XP synthetic media oil filter and I will do 5K oil changes. I also plan to add a pre-oiler to built oil pressure into the tensioners before starting.

10W30 isn't recommended either and will not reduce/stop your leak.