What kind of connector do you like on switches?

[RockRanger]

Do you like the blade ones like so:

http://www.delcity.net/images/linedrawings/7200001.pdf

Or do you like the screw type like so:

http://www.delcity.net/images/linedrawings/7200001.pdf



This is for wiring lights and other auto accesories. yes I know the ones i picked are for 277volt. They were the first ones I found. The 12volt ones use the same connectors so for the basis of this questionthey work.

 

[IZwack]

Blade -- I dont think the screw ones are worth it for light loads. Plus you can always put a dab of solder once you've finalized everything and need a good solid connection that corrosion proof.

The 277 volts one will work too, doesnt really matter what you use because pretty much anything will be over the specs your going to use it for (assuming you're driving the lights via relay)

 

[parad1mg]

i've never really used connectors on any of my switches and just soldered them all.. just looped it if there is a hole on the terminal then soldered~shrink wrapped.. switches used for aux lighting should never carry any of the load going to/from the power source/lights and should only function as "triggers" to switchable relays..

 

[RockRanger]

Usually I have used relays cause I used cheap switches. So now to play devils advocate. If I am mounting 2 100w offroad lights that is 100/12= 8.3 amps. If I am using a switch that is rated to 20 amps and have 2 lights on that switch why should I need a relay. If I am using under 30ft of wire I could use 12 guage wire. Might even beable to getaway with 16 or 14 guage depending on where the battery, switch and lights are at if the runs are really short. Adding a relay just adds one more thing to fail.

 

[BrooklynBay]

I don't know why they can't manufacture automotive switches with a push in connector like the type used on home switches or connectors like this:

For example, an DPST switch would look like this on the back of it:

You would be able to connect a switch in seconds without any crimping involved.

 

[IZwack]

If I am using a switch that is rated to 20 amps and have 2 lights on that switch why should I need a relay.

I'm not saying that using a proper sized switch wont work -- its just traditionally, you'd drive the lights via a relay because most switches on the Pep Boys rack cant handle the power.

Relays also I believe switch a lot "cleaner" electrically than a switch's contacts (depending on the switch of course) -- which might be important since filaments are somewhat sensitive devices. This is kinda why circuit breakers have a tough "detent" feel to it -- so the power is either all on or all off and minimize any crackling signal surging through the lines. But the most important feature of a relay is isolation from you and the high power lines.

But you could always use a switch that has a rubber casing -- the el cheapo 2k Harbor Freight winch for example is purely switch driven -- the control box has buttons with rubber padding on top.

Relays are pretty tough devices -- but if you've had a history of damaging relays on an off-road vehicle, maybe look into driving the lights via a diesel engine's glow plug driver such as: http://www.autozone.com/R,396354/in...partType,00140/shopping/partProductDetail.htm



HarborFreight Winch with rubber switch buttons and no relays/solenoids:

 

[Bill Kemp]

Relays keep the high amp load wires out of the interior of the truck.
You really dont want to be going down the expressway and notice smoke/fire under the dash.
That is why all OEM use relays. Direct wiring without a relay is just not safe.
You do probably take the time to put all 5 lug nuts on your wheel. So why not do the same for your wires?

 

[JDraper]

Blade connectors and relays under the hood. Like Bill said, keep the higher voltage out of the vehicle interior.

 

[90ranajo]

They both have their uses.
The blade style is a little easier to use in tighter situations and has the benefit of having insulated connections. The screw type is a little more secure, but doesn't have insulated connections.

I'll have to agree with everyone else on the use of relays. Not only does it keep the higher loads out of the passenger compartment, but it also shortens the power wire for a lower voltage drop to the load.

Example:
Given your 100W lights having a constant draw of ~8.3A @ 12VDC and estimating a wire run of ~20'. With a 14AWG wire you'd have a voltage drop of 0.861V (7.18%). With 10AWG wire the voltage drop is 0.341V (2.84%).

Now if you use a relay and shorten the supply wire to ~5' your voltage drops would be 0.215V (1.79%) or 0.085V (0.71%) respectfully.

In other words your lights will be brighter with the use of a relay with a shorter, higher AWG power run.

 

[Sandy]

Both of the pic look the same to me, both are screws.

I use the blade type, they have always worked OK.
Soldering after the circuit are working works too.
A piece of adhesive type heat shrink helps to hold things inplace too.

I buy the ones that look the way I want but never below 12 volts, the switches usually end up being over 100 volts and the amperage is not a problem.

Always use Relays mounted as close to the power source (battery) as possible and run a fused line to the relay, no exceptions.

 

[Lankhimself]

Blade ones almost always. The terminals with the screws piss me off and they are inconvenient when working in a tight space, which is almost always the case when wiring something in a car. I always drop the screws at least twice and finding them is another story.