What should be done while the engine is out?

[LilLady]

Hi, I'm a new member and am very glad I found this site. You guys are great! I've been reading the posts for hours....

Here's my question: According to my mechanic, I have to have my oil pan gasket replaced. I'm saving up to have that done as it's an expensive repair and I just dropped $730.00 on all new brakes not including the new radius arm bushings I need!
I was wondering if there might be some other preventative fixes I should have done while the engine is out. I have a '92 4x4 Eddie Bauer with 130,000 miles.
I'm ashamed to say that I've not followed maintence schedules, except oil changes, I just wait for something to break and then fix it. I'm trying to change my ways and treat her better! Any advice would be much apprecaited!

Thanks!:

 

[X-1]

A couple come to mind, one is freeze plugs, have them look at them, they are inexpensive if the motor is already out. Second is torque converter, it seems to be a weak link that can cause trans failure.

 

[Nate1]

Well if you havent followed maintnence schedules, you may want to have your trannie fluid and coolant flushed.
At this point, it is probably so old a flush would be a really good idea.
You may also want to clean everything out under the hood including the engine, its easier to see leaks on a clean engine/body than it is one with 11 years of grime

 

[Lemondrop]

Rear main engine oil seal .......... if you don't have it changed your a dummy

 

[Alec]

Have the timing set looked at, that's a common source of oil leaks.

 

[BAYDOG]

Well if it were me, I would relpace the oil pump, rear main seal, timing chain, (weather or not it were bad), and at least have the main barings looked at.

 

[Rhett]

Replace the rear main seal for sure! It's very very common to see them leaking on the 1st generation (1991-94) Explorers.

Also maybe repaint the firewall if it needs it. Or at least clean things up spic and span.

 

[Deak]

I would think about replacing the water pump, maybe even the valve cover gaskets.

 

[410Fortune]

THE CLUTCH! If it is a 5 speed...I cannot believe nobody said that.

I woudlnt pay $5 to have to oil pan gasket replaced, does it leave a puddle on the ground?


If you are going to remove the engine and pay for a new gasket, new clutch, new rear main, etc etc etc you mine as well install a rebuilt engine.......

Pay a little now or a ALOT later......

oil leaks do not justify pulling the engine, and from the sound of it this guy is ripping you off.......$730 for all new brakes? on a 92? Yikes!!! Lets see:
fromt calipers $12 ea, pads $40 a set, Rotors $35 ea
Re-pack wheel bearings, so $150 for the front roughly parts and labor (and these are based on Autozone Prices)

Rear drums Wheel cylinders $12 ea, spring kit $10 ea, pads $40 a set, Drums $40 ea so figure another $175 for the rear and we are at.......$325.

$750 = rip off. ONce they rip you off what makes you think they are not going to try and keep gouging you for $$$$$? OIl pan gasket? Give me a break!! Dont pay a dime, just add oil every month......

 

[MONMIX]

And the cost gets higher and higher and higher,,,,

 

[Rhett]

These guys are right, you are almost getting to where you could buy a new engine for those prices.

For oil leaks, you could also run 10W-40 and see if that helps.

 

[rkj082000]

Run do not walk away from this mechanic. Pull the engine for the oil pan gasket? On a car with 130k? Don't do it. If anything get another mechanic to loosen the pan and stuff the gasket back in there. This worked on a 94 Taurus with 120K on it, didn't stop the leak completely but it definately slowed it down. just my .02

 

[LilLady]

Thanks for taking the time to respond to my post. I really appreciate your advice.

It sounds like I got ripped off big time! Guess paying $179.98 for brakes rotors and $159.00 for rear brake drums was a little much - and that DIDN'T include labor!But how is a person to know?

What should I expect to pay for radius arm bushing? These guys are saying $244.99 plus allignment for $39.99. Of course there is NO WAY I'll be taking my truck back to them! But figured I'd ask for a price range here so at least I'll know when to know an honest machanic when I do find one!

I have half a mind to print out your responses and ask them to justify that $730.00 bill!!!

Any suggestions on an honest person in the Los Angeles area????

 

[transmissionguy]

you could replace your radius armbushings yourself for probably around 50 bucks I got mine from carquest and got some grade 8 bolts to replace my rivets and only took about an hour and a half.

 

[LilLady]

Tranny,

My automotive talent ranges from pumping gas to excelling at back seat driving! But if the job requires tools other than the kind I can find in my kitchen I'm lost!

I'd love to learn how to fix my truck because as a teacher I was barely able to make ends meet before the price of gas went over $2.00 a gallon!

Having said all that.....I'm ready to hit the library and read up on how to install my own radius arm bushing. I'd save some money and make my kids really proud of me! Who'd have thought there were so many life lessons in auto mechanics 101!

Thanks again,

LilLady

 

[410Fortune]

Radius Arm Bushings:

-You will need a 4" wheel grinder
-You will need a BFH (BIG **in Hammer)
-2 jack stands
-a jack
-a trip to the hardware store for new grade 8 bolts to replace the rivets you cut
-New bushings
-A drill and large bit (1/2" works I believe)
-Black spray paint
-1-1/8" wrench or Socket and breaker bar (radius arm nut is large and torqued on tight)
-Misc sockets (for the new hardware and existing locator bolts)
-2 new nylon radius arm spacers from ford $4 ea I believe.




Basicall the radius arms hold the front axle in position. There is a crossmember that spans the two frame rails right below your feet. This is where the bushings are located.

The problem is they will not come out (the ones on the front side of the crossmember) without either:
A. Removing the front TTB axle
or
B. Cutting 3 rivets per side with the grinder

Basically if you are not afraid of some sparks (or a friend perhaps?) safety goggles, and jacking up a truck (ON STANDS!!) you can do this. And if you are afraid, dont sweat it, this is not rocket science.

You see Ford decided to rivet the radius arm crossmember to the frame with rivets instead of bolts.

It takes about 5 minutes per rivet to grind the head down flat with the frame, punch it through, drill out the holes slightly and drop the crossmember.

Truck is on jack stands supported from the frame so that the weight is not on the front axle...

Remove the crossmember, slide the new bushings on the front, install crossmember, rear bushings and nylon spacer, your done.

It takes an hour and a half if you are going slow (first timer)


I would not pay more then one hours worth of labor, supply the shop with the new bushings, and grade 8 hardware (much cheaper at home depot the Fred Ford SHop) And request that they skip the alignment and replace the bushings using the above method.

If they do iut the other method, dropping the front axle, guess what? More hours = more $$$ = They find you need new: Tiee rod ends, wheel bearings, ball joints, U joints, etc etc etc....

Good luck! and look around, there may be members in your area right now that are willing to help a school teacher with her radius arm bushings...