What stops the front suspension?

[addkev]

I was replacing my shocks today, there has been alot of discussion on shock length. Here is the general logic. The front suspension only travels so far, doing the TT doesn't change that it just provides a new spot where the suspension rests. So, the stock shock length should work no problem. Well, instead of supporting the suspension when I jacked up the X, I supported the frame. As I unbolted the top bolt on the shock, my front suspension dropped, telling me that the stock shock length is too short and that the shock is what stops the suspension. And vice versa it raised the suspension when I bolted the shock back on. So, all you guru's out there, what stops the suspension travel? I am not worried about tearing the shock apart, when I am wheeling I am usually going slow. Just curious...

 

[Jefe]

I've found that the upper ball joint maxes out, stopping downtravel. I've modified my shocks so that they limit the travel about 1/4" before that happens. (a lifetime warranty shock is easier on the wallet to replace than a ball joint) However when you're turning the outer CV joint will bind before any of that happens.

 

[Robert]

From what you say, then it appears that the stock shock is what is limiting the droop in the suspension. If your front end drops even more with the front shock disconnected, then the shock is what is limiting it. That sucks if that is the case becuase all the shock has at the top is a small rubber/polyurethane bushing to limit the travel. In everyday driving, I doubt if it ever causes a problem. Go offroad often where your tires get to bouncing and I could see the bushing wearing out frequently or the shocks. I have already had to replace my front shock bushings twice in the last couple of years since I put my Edelbrocks on. My original bushings were still intact before my Edelbrocks.

 

[Jefe]

Yes, the shock is usually what limits downtravel (depending on brand of shock). I've never had a problem with bushings wearing out. I have had a problem bending hardware; the upper washer that comes with Gabriels is rather thin and after a 4x4 trip I noticed that the washer had been bent up . ..so I took my old Racho 5000 hardware and used it and its worked great ever since.

 

[BUCHVILLEMAN]

ive had a couple misadventures soncernign this. after i did tt i had th estock bilstiens shocks and i bent both of them driving too hard on the beach. so i got crappy monroe shocks ($18 a pop) and i pulled the piston right out of the top of the shock. so some advanced auto sold me edelbrock shocks for a "lifted" explorer these were supposedly to a f-150 or some other application with IFS and i cracked the tube. so i got my gabriel vst and put stud extentions on them and (Mike Rutledge - aka mdrut - can tell you what happened) they pushed the washers and bushings through the top of the of the shock mount...sounds similar to what happenned to you Jefe... (good shock in my opinion the only one so far tha hasnt broken) so i have taken the studs off and just added 4-5 heavy washers to increase the space just a little. i do believe that the shock limits the down travel some but there needs to be some limit to protec the cv joint binding.

BTW- the edelbrocks were taken back and i got 4 gabriels for the price of 2 edelbrocks.

 

[01EB5.0]

On mine the shocks limit the down travel also. i have edelbrocks and I drove them quite hard at the dunes last fall. I wore the upper busings right off. eledbrock sent me new hardware witin 2 days free of charge. I added some washers so the shock doesnt get the full force of the suspension dropping. seems to work well so far..