Wheelin' on the Cheap (Long Ramble)

[410Fortune]

I love my reliable and stout ARB thank you very much

No wiring or pneumatic issues when installed properly IMO.
Mine is the non c clip D35 TTB, it was a used unit came out of a 91 spolder my friend parted out, I had the seals replaced when installed. With 35" tires and slickrock I have never had a problem.

The electric locker is problematic from what I have heard over the last year or so, not sure too many of those things are being installed at the local shops. The solenoid on the diff cover also doesnt like rocks.
The OX locker also seems to have "issues"

Not sure if any other selectable lockers are avail for the reverse rotation D35?

 

[jbhebert]

It was a daily driver/wheeler for 3.5 years. I live in southern California where the weather is about 65* - 85* all year, don't see much rain either so I had no problem with a locked rear end. I honestly don't think I would if it did rain but...

That's good to know. Another option, and a very cost effective one, is to put an EZ Locker front and rear. For about $550, I could be fully locked. However, I've found that the durability of the EZ Locker is directly related to the axle that it's going in; some carriers handle it better than others. Does anyone have EZ Locker experience in the D35 and the 8.8?

 

[jbhebert]

I love my reliable and stout ARB thank you very much

No wiring or pneumatic issues when installed properly IMO.
Mine is the non c clip D35 TTB, it was a used unit came out of a 91 spolder my friend parted out, I had the seals replaced when installed. With 35" tires and slickrock I have never had a problem.

The electric locker is problematic from what I have heard over the last year or so, not sure too many of those things are being installed at the local shops. The solenoid on the diff cover also doesnt like rocks.
The OX locker also seems to have "issues"

Not sure if any other selectable lockers are avail for the reverse rotation D35?

I like the fact that the ARB is completely contained and fits under the stock cover. Hangy-outy bits are just begging to get broken off. Does the non-C-clip diff use a different method of axle retention, or does it just kinda float? This might be the solution to the breaking C-clips that were noted earlier.

Thanks.

 

[410Fortune]

the clip in teh front end is eliminated when you run an ARB, well at least some of them. The earlier models gave you no way to install the C clip, I believe some ARB's do allow you to retian the stock C clip.

The C clip is used to retain the passenger side inner axle shaft, without it the axle can fall out because of the nature of the TTB and the slip yoke on the pass side.

Since I have no C clip in my front end I welded up the slip yoke grease cap and I run a custom metal spring in the slip yoke to keep the inner shaft seated in the diff.

 

[hiridin]

if u want a auto locker stay away from the detroit ez locker :thumbdwn: they says they are designed for about a 33" tire and are for occasional offroad use. meaning u use it often u use it up and need another. they are not very strong. why? i dunno' jus learned all of this reading up on it. all the reading i did on affordable lockers pointed to the aussie locker being the best with the lock rite coming in close second. if yer actually going to use it offroad i'd go with something anything other than the ez locker. just friendly advice. i think thats a bad idea. i speak of what i've researched and read not from personal experience...

 

[jbhebert]

the clip in teh front end is eliminated when you run an ARB, well at least some of them. The earlier models gave you no way to install the C clip, I believe some ARB's do allow you to retian the stock C clip.

The C clip is used to retain the passenger side inner axle shaft, without it the axle can fall out because of the nature of the TTB and the slip yoke on the pass side.

Since I have no C clip in my front end I welded up the slip yoke grease cap and I run a custom metal spring in the slip yoke to keep the inner shaft seated in the diff.

ARB has part numbers for both C clip and non-C clip applications. C clip might be the way to go, except for the reports of broken clips.

Thanks.

 

[jbhebert]

if u want a auto locker stay away from the detroit ez locker :thumbdwn: they says they are designed for about a 33" tire and are for occasional offroad use. meaning u use it often u use it up and need another. they are not very strong. why? i dunno' jus learned all of this reading up on it. all the reading i did on affordable lockers pointed to the aussie locker being the best with the lock rite coming in close second. if yer actually going to use it offroad i'd go with something anything other than the ez locker. just friendly advice. i think thats a bad idea. i speak of what i've researched and read not from personal experience...

Good to know. I guess you get what you pay for.

Anyone have first-hand experience with any of the "drop-in" lockers?

Thanks.

 

[hiridin]

when i had my 8.8 in the back i had a lock rite locker. worked awesome offroad. on road its only so so. takes a little getting used to driving it on road. especially with a manual tranny. i now have a aussie locker in my dana 44 and a lock rite in the 9". though i'd have aussies at both ends if they had them out for the 9" when i needed it. like i said offroad they work absolutely great... on road though is marginal at best. just like it would be with any auto locker. but if that doesn't bother u go with the aussie. if $$$ permitted i'd rather have a selectable out back for street driving especially for snow or rain rather than one up front. the front can be worked by locking or unlocking a hub as needed.

 

[jbhebert]

when i had my 8.8 in the back i had a lock rite locker. worked awesome offroad. on road its only so so. takes a little getting used to driving it on road. especially with a manual tranny. i now have a aussie locker in my dana 44 and a lock rite in the 9". though i'd have aussies at both ends if they had them out for the 9" when i needed it. like i said offroad they work absolutely great... on road though is marginal at best. just like it would be with any auto locker. but if that doesn't bother u go with the aussie. if $$$ permitted i'd rather have a selectable out back for street driving especially for snow or rain rather than one up front. the front can be worked by locking or unlocking a hub as needed.

How do you like your Aussie in the front? Is it pretty smooth? Have you ever had to unlock a hub to make a tight turn? I have to assume that the way the Aussie works (by speeding up the outside tire instead of slowing down the inside tire) that it would be more maneuverable in a front axle application, but this is just a guess.

Thanks.

 

[hiridin]

How do you like your Aussie in the front? Is it pretty smooth? Have you ever had to unlock a hub to make a tight turn? I have to assume that the way the Aussie works (by speeding up the outside tire instead of slowing down the inside tire) that it would be more maneuverable in a front axle application, but this is just a guess.

Thanks.

i honestly can't help you. i've had my truck for well over a month maybe two since we finished and i'm still trying to get it "ready" for play . with my transfer case going out and a new inner seal on the dana 44 leaking pretty bad if i put it in 4wd and another problem i'm working on.. i've only used my 4wd twice so far for a very short amount of time. just to get myself unstuck a couple times. i've read the aussie is quiter smoother and stronger than the lock rite but other than that i really don't know. not yet atleast. i'd like to have everything taken care of by the end of next week so i can actually go do something with it but who knows. that would mean things would have to actually turn out right

 

[jbhebert]

i honestly can't help you. i've had my truck for well over a month maybe two since we finished and i'm still trying to get it "ready" for play . with my transfer case going out and a new inner seal on the dana 44 leaking pretty bad if i put it in 4wd and another problem i'm working on.. i've only used my 4wd twice so far for a very short amount of time. just to get myself unstuck a couple times. i've read the aussie is quiter smoother and stronger than the lock rite but other than that i really don't know. not yet atleast. i'd like to have everything taken care of by the end of next week so i can actually go do something with it but who knows. that would mean things would have to actually turn out right

Fair enough. I've been there lots of times. Good luck sorting out your issues!

 

[jbhebert]

Tire Update

In one of those "duh" moments, I realized that I have a set of almost new (less than 2000 miles) XTerrains in 33x12.5 that I used to run on the Bronco. Since that vehicle is going to be running much larger tires, I will snag the XTerrains for the Explorer project. I had originally intended to run SSR Swampers in the same size, but that money can be much better spent elsewhere.

Somewhat related, does anyone have any junk tires around a 33" that hold air? I need some tires to keep the Early Bronco project mobile while it is being overhauled. Would prefer something in the New England area so I can pick them up.

Thanks!

 

[slravene]

i LOVE my aussie in the 8.8 Its quiet on the road, and doesnt lock up in turns unless i really get on it. In the dirt, rocks, mud, water, etc it is AMAZING. Never left me wishing i had more (out of 3 'froading trips). It doenst give the click click boom of the powertrax, and the warranty that they offer is good. get an aussie in the rear....its the best

 

[jbhebert]

i LOVE my aussie in the 8.8 Its quiet on the road, and doesnt lock up in turns unless i really get on it. In the dirt, rocks, mud, water, etc it is AMAZING. Never left me wishing i had more (out of 3 'froading trips). It doenst give the click click boom of the powertrax, and the warranty that they offer is good. get an aussie in the rear....its the best

Thanks for the feedback... I am most likely going to go with the Aussie Locker in the rear. Still up in the air for the front. Can the Aussie Locker be installed in an 8.8 that was originally a LSD, or do I need to find an open carrier?

Thanks!

 

[slravene]

gotta find an open carrier

 

[jbhebert]

Steel Wheels?

Who has the best prices on 15x8 steel wheels? 4 Wheel Parts Rock Crawlers used to be cheap, but now they're around $60 each. Summit has Cragars for $36.95, which doesn't seem bad, but I used to see them for under $30 a pop.

Any recommendations?

 

[jbhebert]

gotta find an open carrier

Bah... that's what I figured, but I was hoping otherwise.

Thanks.

 

[jbhebert]

Extended radius arms and a TTB pivot question...

Since a friend of mine just gave me 4 new Rubicon Express Super-Flex joints (the larger ones), I think I'm going to extend the radius arms and use two of them at the rear mounts. When I put the 2 inch lieft in, insted of dropping the mount, I'll extend the arms back a couple inches and pick up some articulation. I'll cut some "C" channel into a wedge for the mount, and it should prevent any hangups because of the gradual slope.

I heard a rumor somewhere that the TTB pivot bushings could be replaced with Johnny Joints or Super-Flex joints for some additional flex. Anyone tried this? I have the other 2 joints that I could put in there if they would provide a decent improvement.

Thanks.

 

[410Fortune]

rod ends and jhonny joints have been used for radius arm ends, yes Heims are used more widely.
I always hear of people wanting to do the Jhonny joints but few do. Something to do with the laterar loads they have to take or them not being strong enough, not sure.

Heims will wear out and also provide a harsher ride, so they may not be for everyone.

 

[jbhebert]

rod ends and jhonny joints have been used for radius arm ends, yes Heims are used more widely.
I always hear of people wanting to do the Jhonny joints but few do. Something to do with the laterar loads they have to take or them not being strong enough, not sure.

Heims will wear out and also provide a harsher ride, so they may not be for everyone.

This is why I prefer the Super-Flex joints over Johnny Joints. The Super-Flex joint has a locking threaded collar that lets you preload the joint and hold it together. The Johnny Joint just has a spring clip holding it together, so it can't handle side loads without popping.

Anyways, I'm already pretty much decided on the radius arms. My primary question was regarding the TTB pivot points. Ever hear of anyone doing something other than a bushing there?

Thanks.